1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Ya, I do want to move it upstream. I've considered dual banking pre-turbo. Hard to tell from online if this is a bad idea or not due to higher temps and back pressure though. I do want to try my hand at proper equal length SS headers next, so I can apply whatever scheme then with getting the O2s as close as practical. That would also close up potential gaps from the OEM log-style manifolds

 

hm ya that is bad. Do you still have a cat in the system that could be plugged up?

 

I lied, probably more like 12. It's a newish high flow cat

 

Ouch, I get better then that with e85 lol

 

Tear :'(

 

Hey guys, just wanted to circle back on some of these points for some updates now that I've been running the rusEFI unit for several weeks now.

I've been running sequential injection with no problem. The onboard MAX9924 VR conditioner doesn't seem to have an issue with the shared grounds between the crank and cam sensors. I had to do no modifications to the stock sensors or any splitting of grounds. Just enabled cam sync in the trigger settings and switched to sequential injection no problem.


Trigger log
Green is cam
Teal is crank
Red is trigger error, which is flatlined at 0 errors

I have yet to experience this. The guy who is having this issue I'm quite certain is being caused by some wiring issue on his end.

Closed loop fueling using the 0-5v output from the AEM into an aux input on the rusEFI has been working great. I made sure that my AEM wideband is grounded to the same location as the stock ECU and the standalone (at the plenum) to hopefully prevent voltage drift issues. I'm toying with the idea of adding another wideband sensor for the rusEFI controller to use, and keep the analog output from my AEM sensor as a backup in case a sensor goes bad. For redundancy sake.

Currently working on getting my flex fuel sensor installed. Got it plumbed into the fuel return line, just need to find some time to get it wired up. Then next will be larger fuel injectors, thinking 650cc should do it.

 

That's always nice, with Haltech it just matters what set of inputs you wire it to to determine if the splice is in play. That little VR chip being able to discern with them tied on its own saves some time given how poor the pinout information for rusEFI is. We had gotten it working on Kenneth's like 3 weeks ago and he was pretty stoked about it too, certainly something interesting about the other sensor ground circuit going on there for his regular 5v sensors though.

 

Curious what pinout info you're looking for? Maybe I can help. It's all open source stuff.

 

I have the doc from rusEFI that list the generic functions, Kenneth sent that over with his own splice information about what he changed in his harness. It's a little unfortunate that they don't call out what serves a single dedicated function in the software and what is remappable like others (MegaSquirt, Speedy, Micro, Speeduino). I was going to buy one of the things to probe internally what grounds are discrete (sensor grounds) and what are for the regular battery neg bus as well since I think Kenneth's problem is likely that the two busses got bridged somewhere either in his harness or where he jumpered to the rusEFI board. One of those roundtuit projects but I could make a real direct pinout sheet for it to most 90s-00s Toyota applications after that might be more useful for folks here looking for a cheap stopgap piggyback before going Haltech or Link.

 

There's schematics galore on their github.

https://github.com/rusefi/rusefi/wiki/uaEFI
https://github.com/rusefi/uaefi

I'm not an electrical genius by any means and this was my first standalone type project.

 

Those are a bit better than what is on their main website at least. I never checked their github, but the kiCAD file there is perfect can just open the whole circuit diagram and see what's what. Now I don't have to buy one the things which is nice. Brings me back to my high school days messing with homebrew stuff and the early days of MegaSquirt. Helping Kenneth with his because he's a friend and I know Jayson doesn't mind tuning these things. But overall don't want to be super involved with rusEFI, it's one of those distractions that grabs at my ADHD, I do a lot of wiring harness work (I didn't do any of his though) and it was bothering me still that something is off for his setup and obviously I cannot be there in person to troubleshoot but this can help me give him some places to check for a possible jumped ground.

 

IDK interchange between 5vz and 3rz connectors, but I just clipped almost an entire 5vz engine harness into pigtails since the harness was cut by someone at the ecu - if anyone needs something that’s hard to find. Didn’t know Rockauto sold connector pigtails either. That’s awesome.

 

@treyus30 The price of that dang nice looking exhaust tip you posted went up nearly 50%

Also you have my interest piqued on the whole MPG situation, something ain't kosher and I love a good mystery. Ever get a good PC log of some driving around (mixed situation... WOT pulls and cruising)?

 

Sorry I know this is off topic here - will all I have to do to flip a 5vz over on my engine stand is drain the oil? Probably getting new spark plugs anyway. Just want to check the pickup tube and do the pan gasket.

 

Yeah draining oil is enough, everything else is retained well.

 

I have a chinsy flex pipe connecting the main downpipe. I noticed it was leaking and put a band clamp on the upper part last week. Today I checked my LTFTs and had -10 to -20% across the board, so that's pretty damming that it was an issue, possibly still is to an extent. I could possibly mount my O2 sensor above it but that's gonna be a really tight fit and hot area

 

*sigh* now a 10AN oil return fitting is dripping

 

External automatic frame oiling, a bit precautious in AZ but you're an overachiever.

 

I had to redo my feed line a couple months ago when it started slowly dripping onto the center housing.

 

lol my poly bushings do not agree