Long Travel BS Thread

on a 5-link too.

 

He does some wicked cool stuff.

 

there are too many pivots in too many planes for my little noodle to understand this

 

Pretty well cooks my brain a little too. Reminds me of when I owned a BMW…..

 

Wonder what kind of oil weight and pressure he's got with that much multiplier

 

Interested in people who did either the basikbiker or the solo motorsports tundra rack. After some research I pulled the trigger on a solo tundra rack. I blew out my oem rack and went for the upgrade. I'm curious about other people's install experiences. I know it all varies from truck to truck, but any tips or suggestions would be much appreciated. Currently has a JD Fab 4 inch long travel kit along with their full tie rod set. OEM motor mounts... for now, and 2wd so no diff in the way.

 

I have a rack I bought second hand that was one of Travis rack I believe.
I have the bolt in offset bushings.
Rack has been good, but the bushings and rack will shift side to side a little, fully torqued.
Enough that the steering wheel will shift from maybe 11 o’clock to 1 o’clock max.
Only when I’m really pushing through whoops.
I’d go with the normal bushings and weld in new mounts. You can’t get the rack a little more forward that way too, as the offset aluminum ones still put the rack rearwards from OEM.
Or you could probably drill a lock set screw hole in the rack and bushings, but that still doesn’t solve the location issue.

 

I wonder if bearing retaining compound might work for this. Otherwise you could just drill and tap the rack/bushing too I guess. Probably wouldn’t take much of a fastener to keep it solid.

 

yeah i bought one from Travis since i think at the time it was almost half the cost of solo. been great for quite a few years now. mine was easy though since i had the motor out at the time i did the install.

 

I had Travis machine the gear and installed it in a new OEM Tundra rack, I cut out the crossmember, made new mounting points, and moved it forward. This setup has been bomber for 3 seasons so far.

 

Same the offset bushing will move and need to have set screws in them.
The JD fab tie rods will hit your CO spring. It'll be fine just know about it.
Shits tight as hell on some fittings and such. So be ready to take time of have to shim stuff if needed

 

My tie rods hit the coil springs too a little… I‘d like to redo everything up there,
I like the idea of a new crossmember.

 

Witchcraft. Can't comprehend haha

 

I have lots of room, if you have the JD pivots they would be closer, but I have around 3" clearance.

 

Most issues come into play with heim steering because they are usually 1.25 or 1.125 diameter.

 

Understood, still would have plenty of clearance with the racked pushed forward like mine.

 

Finished up my core reattachment project, we'll see how long this one fairs before needing to cage the whole thing. Cut all the cancer off and reattached the core to the body with a bushing. I plated the body, then welded and riveted the plated in, only caught the truck on fire once. Seamsealed everything and put it back together.

 

Don't you just hate how you do all this beautiful metalwork, and then the seam sealer makes it look like you flex sealed you're whole truck together

Was so proud of how my floor penetrations turned out, only for them to look like a 4 year old with a glue stick on a hot day put it all together.

 

And shorter coilover rod ends, no? My coilovers go down a lot further and I get some coil-to-TRE kisses when I had the wheel cranked and a poor alignment.

 

Good points, I’m 1.75 from coil to edge of tie rod.