Long Travel BS Thread

Im OK with this one getting covered, welding to the body wasn't pretty lol.

 

Your plate work looked very nice in that case

 

Yeah your rod ends definitely play part. But remember you’re also way forward. .875” with the 2.25 then the pivots.

 

Best saying of 2025! Gets my vote!

 

Tip with the seam sealer, if you want it pretty.

Lay your bead then smooth out with an acid brush soaked in acetone. Dip in acetone as necessary when the sealer begins sticking to the brush.

 

I'm aware of the clearance issues that come with the JD kit and solo's rack. I called solo and their solution to help with the clearance was utilizing offset heims to move the tie rod a bit away from the spring. I'm also on oem motor mounts right now.. anyone out a tundra rack in with OEM motor mounts?

 

I wasn't aware of the offset bushings having a tendency to shift like that. Should I just drill and tap? or is there a retaining compound like @906taco said? All the work I'm doing is also needing to be done by this next week to attend some desert events too

 

Drill and tap probably best but Loctite 609 if you are going use a retaining compound.

 

Ill do this when the rack goes in and let you guys know what ends up happening!

The loctite 609

 

Let me know how this works out. It’s a nuisance, but I still haven’t done much about it other than note that it does this an recheck torque.

I went with new motor mounts after my rack would hit the engine with the offset bolt on bushings. Idk if my OEM mounts were sagging but I’d goes a they were a little.

My coilovers also put the spring lower than most kings it seems.



I don’t have JD mounts, just a camburg kit with the lowers pushed forward a bit.
Maybe that kit plus the fox’s and where the CO mounts on the lower arm combined with my heim steering was enough. I couldn’t even bolt my outer heims in without offset heims.
They seem to wear out though in about 10k miles.. that may just be normal for outter tie rod heims tho idk.

overall, for all the little issues I have with my steering, I simply need to put regular centered bushings in the steering rack, and mounted further forward on the crossmember.

That will eliminate the shifting as well as the coil over interference.

 

Even my wife’s mid travel truck has witness marks on the coilovers. Not even sure how. The only thing I can come up with is deflection in the rack bushings. Because it doesn’t really come all that close. But we are solid mounting everything and pushing the inner pivot at least 1” forward when I build her new steering.

 

Thanks man! Always cool to hear it from an expert. Loved all your products so far. The ADS ones are sweet but Corey at TorxFab recommended a 14" one since that is more tailored to my use, and I may end up going with a different leaf pack instead to get the most out of that.

The DRT pack is awesome but also pricey (for my budget at least, I'm sure they're worth every penny if I had than many pennies though) so maybe Deavers? Corey is also a fan of Dobinson ones too. Would those fare better at cycling the full 14" shock than the Icons? Thanks again.

 

You won’t use a full 14 with any of the SOA springs that I am aware of. Our mid travel setup is Deaver U402’s hammer hangers and 2.5x14’s. I could measure to be sure but I know we aren’t using over 12”

 

Bingo. I wish people would stop worrying about the numbers with the rear mid travel. 12 clean is all you can get, maybe 13 if your lucky. It's substantially better than stock so be happy or spend the extra 5k for 16 inches of travel.

 

deavers will max at about 13” with some degree of negative arch so 13’s or 14s are a good choice. You’ll likely limit 1.5” of shock shaft between bump and droop but no biggy really. My pack with rev2 hangers will yield around 14.5”. Corey knows what he’s doing so I’d trust what he’s pushing you towards.

 

Do you have a picture showing the shackle position at full droop with your springs?

 

I guess that’s where I struggle a bit. The U402’s will do 14+ unstrapped as well. But I’ve always been taught the shackle laying flat forward like that isn’t proper and can bind up. (Actually had it happen once). So we strapped up to prevent the issue.

 

Generally yes, you don’t want it falling over center, mine is strapped about an 1” before the center line because of shock length. I advise against allowing it to go over center as a generality(photo attached from my instructions) there is a happy medium spot that I’ve found that can allow you to go over center a tad which is where that 14-14.5 number comes from with my leafs. Spring rate does drop once you’re in “shackle travel” and is why I recommend to pretty much everyone to go with 13” shocks. It’s one of those depending on circumstances things. It’s very hard to make a one size fits all haha. I don’t even recommend my leafs to everyone. They’re a MT pack and the majority of Tacoma dudes are likely going to want an expedition pack of sorts. But for those who know what they want it’s an option that wasn’t previously available.

they do handle incredible for a SOA leaf pack.

I think I’ve posted this in here before but can’t remember. Stock width arms and my complete rear set up.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DFD-0e9zTNa/?igsh=MWo4NXNsZDdxb2E5bg==

 

Super solid explanation! Appreciate it!