Crankshaft pulley wobbling

I replaced the cs pulley around 4 months ago. The rubber was compromised on the original. The new one seemed fine (no wobble), nor did the original one wobble.

The reason I noticed the cs pulley was because I had to go back in & redo the water pump gasket. I had never learned about the rubber wear & happened to be looking something up & it was mentioned. Anyway, I did not install a new hydraulic actuator. I’m just throwing that out there in case it could affect the cs pulley.

Everything else looked good. Tensioner & idler pulleys were in good shape. Belt lined up….

Not sure if this is relevant - a month or so ago I also replaced the water pump & fan clutch pulleys.

I have the accessory belts loosened & cannot see any obvious movement. I took a crowbar & pried at it….
Any input? Would anything I’ve mentioned or anything else contribute to this that I could check? Some other way to check it? Or does it need to come off?

https://youtu.be/6pGKQRYk10Y?feature=shared

 

Here’s the longer, uncropped version just in case….

https://youtu.be/gSG4gX196OM?feature=shared

 

Hmmmm
I do see movement/wobble
But
Appears to be up/down not side to side

when I did my leaking TBelt gaskets job over period of 4days….ugh
Thought I got enough torque on CS bolt
No issues/wobble visible/audible

then Thatt said to get that crank pulley holder….then torque
I listened
Bought and got my CS bolt full quarter turn tighter than before
I couldn’t believe it and thanked him
Hopefully that’s the issue

 

At 1st I thought that’d be great if that was it. Then, as I was brushing my teeth, I thought, another 1/4 turn!!!! & started laughing as I pictured a breaker bar, with a BFP over it & me hanging off the end…. Still, it’s better than having to remove & reinstall. Course I’ll be on another mission to find a cs pulley holder. I keep trying to use the 4 cylinder ones & they don’t really cut it & I don’t have the metal skills to make one.
I did try the one made for the 3.4. It would not stay put.

question - being the lovin the learning type that I am, what is the significance of the pulley moving up & down as opposed to side to side?

& thank you….

 

So I'm in the process of helping the neighbor's grandson repair his 5vz (timing belt snapped while driving on Monday). We just got to disassembly this evening and I got the crank pulley out using a 2x4 with 3 holes drilled into it. We'll use the same for reinstalling and properly torque-ing the pulley as well (works like a charm).

 

Moving side to side, in and out, i.e. a walking crank, I think would be a very bad thing!!, kristi
I recall seeing a video somewhere with a walking crank

Was this an aftermarket crank pulley or that pricey AF genuine OEM crank pulley

 

Do you know how long that belt was in there and how it would just snap?
They are supposed to be quite durable unless in a very dry hot climate

 

An aftermarket. Also just occurred to me this a.m. that even though we are supposed to use a new bolt each time, I’m going to guess this is not always the case, especially when it’s a redo, as was my case. Matters not though who does or doesn’t or why. Point is, I did not & if any a time it was important to use a new one, it’d be when installing a new pulley. So it appears it’ll have to come off anyway….

 

What’s the hardware you used? Looks like something under the hex heads for stability? Also, I do not have any special drills. Could I just use an impact & a hole cutting bit?

 

At least it doesn't appear to be 'walking' back and forth!

 

& to boot, as far as the bolt goes, I have a bramby new one kicking around that I had purchased separately back when I first did the belt job because I didn’t realize there was one in the kit. If my foot could reach my butt!!!!
Whelp, I guess this’ll give me a chance to check the pulley. (Got’a find a bright side….)

 

You need to buy a torque wrench. You can't properly torque anything without one. The last thing you want to do is strip the threads/break the bolt on your crank.

Maybe you already know this, but will say just in case. The function of the rubber is to help isolate the driven components from the crank vibration, so it does allow for a slight amount of movement between the two parts of the crank pulley (aka crank vibration dampener or crank harmonic dampener). From the tiny video on my phone, the movement seems to be slight enough not to worry about. Two things to check is to see if the pulley is properly torqued, and all of the driven pulleys are lined up with the crank pulley, nothing is moved in or out significantly where the belt is putting side load on any component. If those two check out, the other thing it could be is poor quality control in the manufacturing of the pulley, the two parts of the crank pulley itself aren't in line, so as it rotates you see the misalignment. Again, it seems slight enough that I wouldn't worry. If it were direct drive this would matter, but the beauty of belt drive is the belt allows for small amounts of misalignment without impact.

 

a quick ?? on the side...

after timing belt, water pump replacement, or just remove reinstalling the crank pulley, is there any noted interval (mileage or time elapsed) to recheck that big torque value on that crank bolt?
I forget the exact value at the moment but know it's over 200 ft/lb

 

The thing that clued me into something being up was that my lights were dim & I was noticing a few extra cranks needed to start. I took it to the local parts store & alt, battery & starter were all good. That same eve I pulled in the driveway & heard a kind of whistling/wooing noise. Turns out it’s my ps pump. Now, I guess the 1st could be a potential electrical thing & the 2nd, just a typical 1st gen cranky ps pump issue…. Coincidence….
Anyway, before I realized the noises or at least one of them was coming from the pump, I decided to vid the sounds to post on here & that’s when I noticed the cs pulley.

 

Oh my my
My taco has been whistling and wooing for a while now too while on the move
I still haven't a clue what is going on
The ps reservoir did go real low about 2 years ago with a very loud whine when turning, when I found a very big weep in the ps rack, whine went away when I filled the res back to proper level
before getting a new rack
But I was thinking the current abnormal whine going on my taco currently is the somewhat recent clutch and transmission repairs done
Oh my my... I feel my taco is going to need a dropoff at the yota mechanic partschanger shop with a blank check for diagnostics
I am feeling sickly already

 

I do use a torque wrench. I borrow one. Can I claim it’s spot on? No. But I’ve used the same one each time I’ve done this, which is more than I care to admit…. Water pump leak. Then hunting down a rattle. Another time, Dumbnuts (me) was rotating the engine manually, got distracted & forgot to remove the wrench & helper pipe (who admits this kinda stuff?) luckily the second I went to start it, I knew exactly what happened. Actually I’m lucky I used the pipe. Not sure what would have happened had it been just the ratchet. Lesson learned. Don’t talk on the phone & do this kinda stuff….

 

I could clearly hear it through the lines with the handy stethoscope. Whilst I was in denial about the cs pulley, I did a flush & cleaned the reservoir.

 

Hard to say. I'll look back at the belt and look for markings. The 2001 4runner it's in has 330k miles on the clock and has lived in Arizona a long time, so maybe the original actually lasted that long? The kid who owns it cares more about cool off road lights in the front bumper than preventative maintenance, so this might be a good learning lesson for the kid

 

I used some extra aluminum skid plate spacers, only because the bolts I had were too long (proper length bolts would eliminate the need for the spacers).

For the bigger hole (where the socket goes through) I used a 1-1/4" hole saw bit on the end of a standard drill. For the bolt holes just a standard 1/4" wood bit did the trick

 

I believe they are m10x1.25. Do you happen to recall what length bolts you got or would have?