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2006 Tacoma 1GR-FE Engine Swap

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by sikruis, Jan 14, 2025.

  1. Apr 2, 2025 at 8:42 AM
    #301
    SR-71A

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    Circling back to this. What exactly is that meter measuring? Never seen one like that before. As close as I can tell you're set to read in k-ohms? 2,200 ohms?

    If so the crank sensor looks good acceptable range is 1,850 - 2,450 ohms.

    Cannot find an acceptable range for the 1GR cam position sensors though... What was your reading on those?
     
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  2. Apr 2, 2025 at 9:12 AM
    #302
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    It is the strangest meter I have seen as well.
     
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  3. Apr 2, 2025 at 9:41 AM
    #303
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    No programming required on 2nd gen ECMs, just have to do the 30 min Immobilizer reset.
    The VIN should be re-written but it's not nessesary for it to run.

    You just have to match the part number of your ECM.

    Used ECMs are generally pretty inexpensive if you have an automatic, manual ECMs can get pricy though.
     
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  4. Apr 2, 2025 at 10:36 AM
    #304
    sikruis

    sikruis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It's 2200 ohms.
     
  5. Apr 5, 2025 at 9:49 AM
    #305
    sikruis

    sikruis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    well. The fuel pressure regulator made no difference. I am getting misfires on cylinders two and three. I have checked to ensure injector and coils are plugged in correctly. when I swap coils 1 and 3, I get misfires on 1 and 6. WTF? I think I've reached the end of my capabilities. Thinking of having it towed to a pro.

    The only thing I can think of is testing the fuel pressure coming from the fuel rail. Please ya'll, let me know what I'm missing. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2025
  6. Apr 6, 2025 at 11:32 AM
    #306
    sikruis

    sikruis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So after checking my cam sensors, reading between 200 and 1000 ohms, I reinstalled them and now I’m getting the P0340 error. It’s still stalling, but I am not getting misfires.

    IMG_8485.jpg
     
  7. Apr 6, 2025 at 8:12 PM
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    Torspd

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    I am sure that you've double checked the plug for the sensor, to make certain it is properly clicked in?
     
  8. Apr 6, 2025 at 8:25 PM
    #308
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    I actually have a spare 2008 6 speed offroad ECU if you need
     
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  9. Apr 7, 2025 at 4:49 AM
    #309
    sikruis

    sikruis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I did, snug as a bug. I even cleaned off the terminals and added dielectric grease. I ordered new ones.
     
  10. Apr 7, 2025 at 4:50 AM
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    sikruis

    sikruis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Very generous! I'll keep this in mind. This should work with my 5AT?
     
  11. Apr 7, 2025 at 5:27 AM
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    SR-71A

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    Did anyone ever figure out what the ohm range is supposed to be per Toyota? For the cam position sensors?

    Kinda odd I cant find that anywhere in the books I have


    Another thought: Are you sure you dont have a wiring loom issue after the swap? I know you had done some work on the loom in certain areas, and checked other areas. But did you check it all? Just spit balling here, but it kinda feels like an intermittent electrical issue. Wonder if you should redo a bunch of resistance checks inside at the ECM? If any results are different from what you saw in the engine bay, you'd have to trace it back
     
  12. Apr 7, 2025 at 5:33 AM
    #312
    sikruis

    sikruis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The only thing on the resistance spec of the cam sensor was between 200 and 1000 ohms.

    I did check the entire wiring loom inside the engine bay. There were some minor nicks, repaired, which didn't show anything obvious. How do I go about checking the resistance from inside the ECM?
     
  13. Apr 7, 2025 at 5:48 AM
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    Dm93

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    You can't ohm check Hall Effect sensors, you can only check the signal with an oscilloscope.

    The 4.0 will run on the crank sensor alone so you can unplug the cam sensor in question and see if it stays running.
     
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  14. Apr 7, 2025 at 6:06 AM
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    SR-71A

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    Is the crank position sensor a different type of sensor? I always assumed the resistance check was just a way of determining the internals of the sensors were ok (no open circuits or dead shorts) but never looked into it until now
     
  15. Apr 7, 2025 at 6:36 AM
    #315
    Dm93

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    The crank sensor on the 4.0 is a VR (Variable Reluctance) sensor, it's just a coil of wire and a magnet and creates it's own voltage unlike a Hall Effect sensor that needs a voltage and ground supply to operate. While you can ohm test VR sensors and if they fail they are definitely bad but they can pass an ohm check and still be bad.
     
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  16. Apr 7, 2025 at 6:44 AM
    #316
    sikruis

    sikruis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    While I don't think these are the cause of the engine refusal to idle, I did purchase new ones. A mechanic friend on mine recommended a shop. I'm preparing to have her towed there for some diags.
     
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  17. Apr 7, 2025 at 7:33 AM
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    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    Oh dang I thought you had a 6 speed! They are different. I bought one on eBay when I was getting all my 6 speed swap parts
     
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  18. Apr 7, 2025 at 7:36 AM
    #318
    sikruis

    sikruis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Something I was thinking about, after swapping out the engine does the ECM need to be reprogrammed?
     
  19. Apr 7, 2025 at 7:43 AM
    #319
    Dm93

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    As long as the part number on the replacement ECU matches yours no.

    Just need to do the Immobilizer learn which is 30 min with a paperclip and the correct VIN should be written to the replacement ECU but isn't nessesary for it to run.
     
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  20. Apr 17, 2025 at 2:08 PM
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    RDAP

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    Any progress or still waiting ?
     

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