To the moon, back, and back again?

How do you know coolant is leaking that much, how do you measure or analize that few ounces?
Are you coming up on 28 sometime this month?

 

I had a small leak coming out of the head and block that you could see some weeping.
Got new heads installed,


rolled over 800k all supercharged miles.
Decided its time for new heads from Yota1, ARP bolts, timing parts, LCE light weight pulley and new injectors, motor mounts, etc.
Heads were full of cracks, one burnt valve and low cylinder pressure at 150 for most and 110 for one.
New heads all cylinders are at 175-180 psi lots new power.
1st engine the head gaskets popped at 485k,
Got a used motor that was in the truck running that had 90k.
Now that motor has 500k and low cylinder pressure and a very small blown head gasket.
For me both motors head gaskets popped at 500k range.
Got new heads with ARP bolts that torque to 80lbs this time and all my cylinder pressure numbers are all 175-180 compared to 150 before with old heads,
Was a long job a week on and off but not that bad.
Lots of new power now!
3.4 heads run 400-500k and then they are start having problems
A week later shes back up and running going for 1,000,000 lol

 

Really great to see! Thanks for posting. I'm expecting at some point I'll maybe have to do something similar. Mine is at 414k. Right now I can't do much as it's our only vehicle, but hopefully that will change soon. First up will be transmission: input shaft bearing is starting to complain a little more.

 

You went with the lightweight LCE crank pulley instead of the heavier OEM crank pulley?
Or did you have the LCE on before this all new power?

 

What are your compression #s currently? Or have you checked them

 

Yes, added it as a new part

 

That looks nice!
I am curious about how the harmonic balancer is with that or did they delete it...I was still reading up about it on the webpages because I could use a nice looking new one again someday...1st crank pulley balancer failed at about 192k

 

I haven't checked them... maybe I should?

Anything I do personally takes a long time because I don't really know what I'm doing. I poke around as a backyard mechanic but try to stick with what I consider "achievable" with my skills and tools. I may try to do more myself, and learn (I enjoy doing it). Once we have a 2nd vehicle, however.

Recently done:

1. New MAF (a little while back)
2. New cats last Feb 2024
3. Timing belt, and associated work. Jan 2024
4. New clutch May 2024, Transfer case service (oil, etc). Replaced driveshaft center support bearing.

My current known issues are;

1. Need a new clutch start switch: ordered. Using clutch start cancel button when nec, intermittently starts when I pump the clutch, hence determined the switch (thanks to TW thread on this).
2. input shaft bearing on manual transmission, I'd like to have Yota1 or Martin Crawler rebuild it. But they need it for quite a while.
3. Valve covers are leaking a little oil.
4. Right front CV inner torn, leaking a little.
5. Left front outer CV boot torn, leaking a little.
6. Steering rack is leaking a little on the right side.
7. Usual stuff like brake pads are needing replacement.

I have a regular mechanic I really like who did my recent timing belt and associated work. He's not worried about any of these for now, but we'll get to them. He is alone in his shop so he referred me to another good shop for my recent clutch replacement at 400k (original clutch!). I wish I could have done the tranny then but couldn't. (Need that 2nd vehicle).

 

I'm not sure if this is the right thread to ask about this, but I'll go ahead...redirect me if you think I should place it elsewhere.

I am thinking of taking my 3.4l v6 extra-cab manual 2000 4x4 TRD off road with 414k to Yota1 and having them drop the transmission, rebuild it and reinstall. Two mechanics have told me the input shaft bearing is making noise. One says the rebuild should happen soon, the other says it's okay to drive for now and watch it. I think the job is well beyond my capabilities.

So, I have a few questions.

1. Is it OK to drive with a slowly failing input shaft bearing? Will I do more damage to the transmission that makes the rebuild more costly? Or is it best to bite the bullet now?
2. Will the trans catastrophically fail in service or will it get louder to the point where it will tell me it's time. It's not that noisy now but I can hear it whining faintly and it has gotten worse over the last few months. My wife claims she doesn't hear it.
3. Has anyone had Yota1 remove, rebuild, and re-install theirs, and how did things go?
4. Last year, I had the original clutch replaced at 400k. It now has 414k. Yota1 says they will look at the new clutch and recommend whether to just replace it again. But I can't see how what I think was a good clutch job will need replacing after only 14k miles. (I just couldn't do the trans at the time as it is our only vehicle for now.) Thoughts?

Lastly, the truck is in pretty good shape. I'm having minor gasket leaking on the valve covers but in the 1/2 quart every 5000 mile range. CV boots are leaking up front a little. My thought is that doing the transmission by a reputable shop will add value or make the truck more attractive to a new owner should I decide it is time to let it go. But, I have no plans to do so now, as we love the truck. I may keep it even if we do get something we can tow with better. I have always maintained it and have a 1.5" stack of receipts for maintenance. I usually like to do things BEFORE they become bigger issues.

Appreciate any of your thoughts on this...! Thanks in advance.

 

It’s from LCE PERFORMANCE, I decided to replace the original one as the rubber was wearing out and there was a small wobble.

 

if the input shaft bearing is making noise you should NOT be driving it. It’s just a matter of time and it will start to shead metal that will ruin a lot more.
Yota1 definitely is a top tier company for any work.
If you’re at 400k it’s a matter of time before you need the heads rebuilt or if nothing else do a compression test and if that’s good the valves will most likely need adjusting. Thats a huge pain FYI,
Your oil burning is more than likely the valve stem seals. I was at one quart every 5k miles, now it’s more like 1/4 quart every 5k miles with the new heads

 

Thanks, I appreciate it. Maybe I should see if they can do a compression check while they have it.

I'm looking into renting a car for the week Yota1 needs it. They will rebuild my transmission. They have a core which is perhaps unusual (I've been checking), but they can rebuild mine fairly quickly, so that's the route I'll take. I'm thinking of having them put in the .69 5th gear DYNA option. Might be nice on long trips. Do you have any experience with that gear option?

 

That sounds great,
No I’m not aware of the .69 5th gear,
Here a link below about it

https://adventuretaco.com/guide/step-by-step-taller-5th-gear-swap-dyna-r452-into-tacoma-r150f/

 

your CSP lasted much longer than mine did, it was shot and separated before even hitting 200k

with those new heads installed have you seen Any noticeable improvement in fuel economy MPGs?
somehow last year mine last 2 to 3 MPGs (30 to 50 miles per full tank) from what had been the normal for 1/3rd of a million miles and i don't know what the issue is ever since i got the rebuilt R150F from Yota1...it may have nothing to do with it or it may have everything to do with it...it's very concerning!
is 28 years in the books for you yet? i am 10 days away from that mark lol

 

The new heads my compression went from 150-160 psi to 180 psi, oil one quart @5k miles to 1/4 quart so my power went up and my boost on my supercharger increased by 2 pounds. Yes gas mileage had dropped to 18 mpg or so, it’s back up to 20-21 mpg,

if I wanted a new Tacoma I would buy one, I like the old Tacoma and was my 1st new vehicle back then and it’s a 2nd vehicle not my only vehicle I drive