Let’s see some subwoofer setups!

It will tune just fine, theres plenty of installers doing 2 10's behind the seat of a single cab.....

 

Installers aren't exactly scientists...

 

some are.....
same time, just cuz it doesnt pencil out on paper, in a program, doesnt mean anything...
Running 2 10's in a small space is nothing new....

 

What makes you think it won't work well under 80Hz?? Subwoofers are *designed* for playing under 80Hz lol

 

Are those 10s or 12s?

 

wedding rings are *designed* to go on fingers. why won't mila kunis accept mine!?!

 

The enclosure is just as important as the driver. Think of it as a piston in a shock absorber. If the volume is too small or shrinking, you have to work harder to press further, thus limiting lower frequency response. All speakers are springs in this regard, and volume and air velocity are key variables in determining the tuning frequency

 

Alright, what did I miss about this specific application that would suggest dual Hertz MPS 250s in a properly sized enclosure won't perform well under 80Hz? Unless I completely missed something, that's a ridiculous statement.

 

I understand how it works.

I would be shocked if this box is under 1.0cf net volume, and those subs are designed to be played in small enclosures. They're basically 10tw3 clones--all they need is 0.5cf.

Would they play lower in a larger box? Sure! But 80Hz is just a silly threshold to throw out there. They'll have gobs of output in the 40-80Hz octave.

 

I also don't know why you threw out a random driver... it doesn't even have a published decibel frequency response plot

I did throw that one in bassbox rq with a guesstimate on the box dimensions.


Yellow is ported performance with a single driver. Cyan is ported dual. The other two are sealed single and dual (single has slightly better low end response but ofc will be offset by +6db from the 2nd driver). Best case is single with port, yielding a -6dB point of roughly 20Hz from the box itself, so ya not bad, the others are 30Hz and 40Hz, respectively. The 2nd driver barely even makes up for its existence at 20Hz. My guess is a 10" sub's response is not that extended by a long shot though... leading to further reduction.

https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/JL/10TW3-D4
^ if this site is to be believed (wild that driver and enclosure drop-off starts exactly where I said), we see similar results


To your credit, the box is a bit larger that I thought at first, and I didn't realize we were in the $500/driver category. Looks like he will get solid performance 30Hz+, and even better performance (flatter response - less active tuning) if he drops one driver and ports it.




PS. I hate a peak in the 80-120Hz band, so if no DSP, only crossover, probably best place to set it is 50-60Hz. But with all that combined, he's gonna lose quite a bit of power.

 

i just got done watching 'a million ways to die in the west'. needed to throw out a random mila kunis reference.

but my overall point is that just because something is designed to do a thing doesn't mean that it just will automatically do it when placed in a poorly curated environment.

 

Sure, but I see nothing poorly curated in the photo. I would guess the box is around 1.4cf with a pair of very nice shallow subs that require 0.5 each. It'll bump!

The statement that it won't do well below 80Hz is just goofy.

 

All im going to say is it cranks, just got it back, even more so than my high dollar system....
Went with
cheap Recoil red1800.5 amp, $179 reg price & I paid $79
980 watts going to the 2 subs, dont have it wired down to 1 ohm, no reason to work the amp that hard.
220 watts going to ea driver.....
Cdt 62-hd, running them active crossed over through the amp, not using supplied crossovers that came with speakers.
2 Hertz mps 250 10" subs...
Kenwood Exeleon dmx908s
The box took up the entire width of the rear cab area...
Sound pretty amazing for not having high-end equipment...
CDT from my understanding you get more for the money due to dealer direct, cut-out the middle man...
Yes, the subs weren't low-end...
Happy with the sound & son is beyond stoked....

 

Progress has been so slow but I got the aux power panel installed on the back wall. One step closer to some sound.

 

nice....
What are all the relays for?
For the sound system? Or something else like lights?

 

Right now they will all be activated by the same fuse tap so the circuit is off when the truck is, but if I ever need them to be individually switched, I can.

I also have an aux panel build under the hood so that will handle lights. This one will power my DSP and tweeter amps. Maybe some other things but it’s more preemptive than anything.

 

i would think you need 250W for the amp. Looks clean though

 

Oh wait yeah you’re right, I forgot I already pondered over this before. I have a distribution block sitting in my garage to split an 8awg from the batt into 10awg inputs. I still have to build an aluminum fuse block for some mini anl fuses.

It’s been a few months since I’ve worked on this project lol.

 

That is true. All my projects is sitting under the blanket since winter

 

I'm curious on your thoughts of that prv dsp once you get it running.

I want to make my tool cart full active, but am space/cost restricted to needing something smaller and cheaper than a Dayton dsp408 or minidsp.