TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Boost #’s and warm up time sound normal for your altitude and lower thermostat to me

 

Thanks. I may need to go to a 2.8 - I'm a bit gunshy of doing more, don't want to snout cut and I remember reading past 2.8 theres transmission stuff you need to do as well. But I might get there too!

As far as temp goes - should I be concerned about letting it warm up more? Unsure if that's a gauge issue or a real read warmup issue.

 

If you tune the truck properly, it doesn’t matter what altitude you’re are when you tune it. My 2¢

 

Appreciate it! I was leaning on info from years back when my tuner suggested I get re-tuned when I moved from Colorado to North Carolina (EFR Turbo'd Audi). For the Tacoma the change won't be nearly as drastic, but it'll still be about 3,000ft different, so I'm not overly concerned.

 

I think the 2.8” pulley is perfect. I have it.
I get about a peak of 7 psi at sea level.

I also have a 160° thermostat, and notice it takes a little longer to warm up, but I also don’t rev or mash throttle on any vehicle until it’s warm.
Also if you’re going by the OEM gauge, that thing is pretty vague and generalized so I wouldn’t worry.
If you do see consistent cold temps in the winter, this could be an issue if the truck takes too long to get up to operating temp or never quite fully reaches that threshold.
The ECU I believe has some codes it will trigger if this is the case.

 

You picked a good time to order that! New China tarrifs up to 104%!!

 

That on top of them bumping the price up $2k.... Thankfully I was also able to save about $400 when it came to taxes.

 

No. @JustDSM tuned mine remotely for this elevation. Zero problems. Highly recommended.

My advice, FWIW, is to cut the snout before you install everything and go with a Smoothflow Quickchange Hub. That gives you the most flexibility with the least ass-pain in the future. I'd also argue you can comfortably go with whatever pulley size provides stock boost levels. Going above stock boost is where concern is warranted.

This is good advice, especially for a custom-tuned vehicle with forced induction, descending from a higher-to-lower elevation. Without adjusting the tune, you're likely to run lean, which can destroy your engine. Coming from lower-to-higher elevation is less risky, as you're more likely to run rich, which tends to threaten only your plugs and cats.

 

Holy snikeys, what a deal. Similiar situation I had last year but I ended up paying full retail. No regrets though.

 

x2

 

AFE air filter and box about to go in here, damn that filter is huge. So much more material than the stock config, and I dont think theres that secondary carbon whatever thing.

If not obvious, you all have me strongly considering pulley sizes now. As in, maybe 2.7 or so.

Beyond trimming the snout, any other considerations? My goal is a reliable and smooth 6.5 pounds available boost. And I am just about at 6k feet elevation.

I do however occasionally travel down to 3k elevation, and sometimes sea level outright. If I do, are there any serious considerations I should have for that change? Also, on a pulley change would that also be time to consider a re-tune?

I'm still rolling with the bully dog included on the magnuson kit. I know it runs lean, but also I am up high. Should I be concerned about getting a better / proper tune asap?

 

You'll probably need a 2.6" pulley for reliable 6.5PSI at 6K ft elevation. (Mine peaks there at WOT with a 2.5" at ~7K ft elevation.) I recommend RIP-modding your pulley(s) and supplemental tension (from something like @Roostfactor's Pulley Wrap Mod) to minimize slip.

Consult your tuner about travel to lower elevations, as doing so could result in running too lean.

Yes - get rid of your BD. Custom tune by @JustDSM (Overland Torque Tune, OTT) is the way to go.

 

I'm down in Phoenix (1200 feet).. but regularly get up in elevation (Prescott, Flag, other peaks to camp, etc) ~6k-8k feet. I'm running a 2.5 pulley on a HP Tune via Justin. I see about 8-9 lbs of boost.. but that doesnt necessarily mean anything. Correct me if I'm wrong here guys, but everyone's boost readings are going to vary.. not just due to pulley size and elevation.. but exhaust setups will play a big factor as well, no? Constrictive vs Non. I used to be at like 12lbs of boost.. then I opened up my exhaust some more.

But.. if and when you do decide to jump down in pulley size @EricT , and you want to add a pulley wrap.. let me know and I can do a VW roller bearing wrap mod for you. Definitely get on a HP Tune sooner than later.. other than that.. you'll be fine running up down in elevation.

 

I put my fuel regulator to boost refrance and my fuel persure dropped to 34 psi vs 44 with it open air. I am on the danger fench right now on being to lean after installing my bigger throttle body on a full throttle run is see 11.8 and some times see a 12. my mods so far are fuel pump, = legth headers, =legth y pipe and 3 inch exhuast, pully 385, volant intake older stlye one with ram air, retarted cam gears

I am looking to buy a fuel perssure regulater and bump my ful pressure but i am un certin how the ecu will react with no flat rate fuel perssure

 

If your ECU isn't properly configured to be boost referenced you will run lean (create positive fuel trims) under vacuum. You'll find the truck will run a bit richer when under positive pressures - which is why it was a popular mod back in the day.

The ECU is calibrated specifically for a fixed fuel pressure in OE calibrations.

 

it just has the trd tune on it. the idea was to do possibly 3 things a buy adjustable fuel reg then set it to 44 psi and see if the rising rate will fix it but it may go to rich option 2 is to run FMU https://vortechsuperchargers.com/pr...yU_y3viS6DpzevqN_-iJJqcBTuNcTXoNAgose26QkUg42 or last option that I may do because it is cheap and I Have done to older toyota's and just use the b&M fuel pressure upgrade kit or blox makes one too https://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/p5729_BM_Racing_CommandFlo_Fuel_Pressure_Regulato.html

 

Hey question - for the PCV, a stock one is expecting stock levels of vacuum right? And we dont exactly have that anymore. Do I need a differently rated PCV?

 

That would be news to me.

 

Boost is on-demand, not all the time. Mine still idles down around 15-20in Hg vacuum. No PCV change required.

 

a pcv vavle are all the same in there job no matter the vaccum on the other hand only thing that degrades is your brake force if you were to run massive over lap cams for high rpm