2nd Gen on 35s

For those of you running 35" tires, what width is the tire and how much lift do you have?
Thank you!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-those-that-wheel-and-love-alignments.594309/

 

I went through that thread although I didn’t read every single post line by line. I did not find the info for which I’m asking.

 

Reading the link above hopefully it will answer questions but not sure given thread is 3rd gen

If anyone knows:

-can you run 35’s on 6112/5160, ICON RXT? I imagine you can.
I’ll look up what circlip adjustment level people are running them on

-can rubbing be avoided with JDFab LCA pivots? Site claims they do

-what are you all paying to do this in terms of selling old good tires and getting 35’s

-is it worth switching away from WildPeak AT3W to a competitor A/T such as Cooper STMAX, Toyo Open Country, etc

-why are there posts online about weird inch sizes like “35x12” - I thought 315/70r17 is the thing to do, hopefully available in Load C. Is that not the size to get?

-why is there talk about lift to clear them, when you can simply tear off your flares and throw them out? I already have deleted flares but will have to figure out if the fenders need more trimming so I can plan my bumper trim in conjunction. As my front ARB juts out towards the tire beyond the fender with the flare deleted. Unless it’s risky to alter a crash-tested ARB design that way and better to switch to a bumper designed more for 35’s to begin with. Only competition I see is BAMF, C4, ATHFab (full hoops)

-Why are people ruining the truck with 3” lift that is excessive and not recommended by professionals?
Maxing out a coilover all the way up causes clunking from bottoming out, CV angle damage, and worse ride by no longer having downtravel

-if you’re on 33’s is it better to regear first, or is 35 Load C manageable temporarily

-why do people get 34’s

 

You can run 35s on stock suspension, cutting matters most for strictly clearance.

jd pivots can help move away from the fire wall and can mount but you might have to clear the inner fender near the headlight in turn.

315/70/17 is just a metric 35 that might be a hair smaller


rxt option 1 & 5160 rear (5160 will be replaced with kings soon hopefully)
King 2.5 up front (used to be 6112)

kings have minimal preload. I left them how they came out of the box and adjusted the driver side a little bit for taco lean

 

Watch this vid and some of his others. He does a good job of explaining the details from an engineering perspective on the issue to help understand the geometry taking place. (1085) 4 Tips to ACTUALLY Fit Tires on Toyota IFS | 33s No BMC - YouTube

 

I've only run 35's with king coilovers but it really depends on how much you want to hammer in you wheel wells. I cleared rears with progressive add a leaf and a fender trim. I'm on 37s now but 35s are only really worth it if you need them depending on how you wheel. I did coilovers and spc arms before I went long travel and barely rubbed with a cmc at full flex at lock. I went from at3ws to ko2s to falken MTs and at3ws were the best all around tire I've used. If you're on 17s, the tire size to get is 35x12.5r17. If on 16s go with 315/75r16. I had to trim my fenders and flares to clear under full flex. I have BAMF front bumper and it's not even close with the 37s so I would assume with an arb you'll be fine. A lot of dudes run that huge lift because they don't actually wheel. Won't rub if you never flex the suspension. I've been able to get away with a 2in lift with the kings and 35s. With a 6speed manual, I was in 4th going up hills on 35s and bogging down so I wouldn't do 35s without a regear. Only drove it like that for 3 days before my regear. Unsure on the 34s.

 

I had the JDFab pivots put on with 33’s so I have to check which way the spacers are installed to set caster
Because supposedly they’re position adjustable

open to getting CMC but hopefully won’t have to hammer on the tub with a sledge wrapped in a T shit because that looks cringe; as opposed to CMC’s actually look good (if you get the right one, whichever that is) and replaces cab mount bushing while you’re in there.

truck is 6MT with armor so per ECGS recs and KFlo, am leaning towards ARB air lockers and 4.88 at some point
Was comparing to TrueTrac, Torsen, or leave front open, but that’s a different story.

jd Also has inner fenders that look nice and clear more
Idk if the battery setup is ideal I believe it’s a single tray
Unless it can be modded (probably can) to change, or fit two batteries in sideways to use it as a dual battery
The stock area is weak and rips from that, but their inner fenders are likely stronger enough to handle added weight of a second battery there

already have the regular Methods 17x8.5 so I know they can mount 35, but haven’t found if it’s needed to run SpiderTrax spacers yet or which kind

plan is to swap HD springs onto my 6112 (because bumper) and re evaluate circlip height (add one to left for Taco lean) and increase both sides up one click if needed later
It’s set about in the middle now which so far has been good
I’d hope 6112 can clear a 35 without needing to max them all the way up

right now also have 0 camber, unlike before pivots at a higher lift (OME 887 around 3”) where it had positive camber and caused numerous problems

35x12 just sounded odd because supposedly it’s 0.5” wider, which sounds like increased rubbing
And possibly the additional width not needed because 315 is already very wide to begin with, and much wider than the popular 33” 285/70r17

it’s hard to see the black corner but this pic shows what I mean about the bumper extending beyond the fender into the tire
Even on 33” at full compression during a bump, the ARB bumper corner rubs the tire


whereas competitors appear to have their corners not as close
Their designers likely prioritized 35’s more from the getgo

 

I'm currently on 35's and about to make the jump to 37's. For 17's the most common is 12.5 wide. Currently about 2" up front and 2.5" in the rear

 

This channel is one of the best out there for straight up, no bullshit info. I hope it takes off, he deserves way more subs.

 

Just so OP knows, it's A LOT of commitment to go 35's. Lots of modding, cutting, regearing, messing with wheel fitment etc... You will rub if you wheel it, period. There are a couple of members here that say you won't but you will. If you are not committed to the above, as well as tanking your MPG even more, don't do it. I'm not sure that I would do it again, knowing what I know now. Don't get me wrong, I like it but like I said, it's a commitment.

 

Front - 3.5” Rough Country Coilovers

Rear - All PRO Expedition rear leafs with Bilstein 5160

UCA - SPC Adjustable

Wheels - 17x8 Konig Countersteer Type X -10 offset

Tires - Goodyear Duratrac 315-70-17 with 1” Wheel spacers

TOYTEC 1” Body lift

Relocated the cab mount as well.

 

This is my truck on 35s in the first pic and 37s in the second pic. Granted it's on a +2 long travel kit now but 17x8.5 -25. I regeared to 4.56 with a manual. Wouldn't do 4.88s if you daily it since your 6th gear rpm is going to be high. Averaging 12.5mpgs with full armor and winch. I would only do 4.88s if you spend most of your time rock crawling. The 4.56s are perfect for all around offroading and it's livable with highway driving.

 

I am running a skinnier 35" tire at 10.5", and have the OME BP-51 set up with Deaver Stage II's in the rear.

Truck runs great, 4.88's, larger brakes up front etc. and no regerts.

 

What would you guys recommend for a an auto S/C truck on 35’s. Mainly city driving and the occasionally highway drive maybe 2-3x a month.

 

S/C and auto both get away with higher gearing so I imagine 4.10 4.30 max if not lower and that 4.56 may even be pushing it.

 

I had 35s for 5 years. Did a big CMC and cut 2" from the front fenders and flares (and the other supporting mods). Also not sure if Id do it again. I went down to 285s and they seem perfect for what I do now.

before with 35s :


current with 285s :

 

I keep seeing 4.88 for autos.

 

4.56s

 

4.56 was pretty good for me on 35's although im manual trans. I either need to regear or go dual cases now though. 4.56's ain't cutting it on 37's offroad. I've always seen 4.88's tossed around for the autos