Flatbed,35’s and Mainly Parked For Repairs

Thanks. Always seems to take longer than expected.

 

Prior to doing the rear leafs I was having a parking brake, traction control and abs light on the dash. This progressed to the speedo not working. While the truck was on stands I checked the rear wheel bearings and they had some play. A worn wheel bearing can mess up the magnet contact for the sensors this getting the lights on the dash.



First drive and speedo is working. Still have an abs light but appears to be a front sensor when we scanned it. The rear sensor may just be bad so I’ll order some Amazon specials and see if that helps.

 

you have been biz-eee

 

Got a few things off the list this winter.

 

So this never worked ans the Jeep mount broken. I resorted back to the old zip tie setup. Well I finally spent the hour to do it properly.

Little aluminum bracket that bolts to the bed and allows for a hose clamp to clamp to it. I can finally fill up the truck without having to hold the gas nozzle at a particular angle or a specific way. I also don’t have to hold it the entire time. Allows me to do a walk around and check the truck while filling up.

 

Flex test to measure for bumps. Still have 2-3” of uptravel left in the shocks but the leafs are going to negative arch. Bunp stop squishes an inch or two if I recall. Will check later.



Going to trim this corner of the Tmr plates as it contacts the shock body which isn’t making the shock happy.




plan is to eventually go to 14” shocks but have to double check as I won’t be utilizing the uptravel that much but the down travel I believe I have lots of room.

will trim the u bolt flip and then test again this afternoon.

 

How did you do the smaller one along side the gas line, smaller tube for extension?

Images?

 

Older photo but it’s a thin tube that it goes into. I must of cut something.



does this help?

 

Yep it does.

You think that smaller line is 1/4" gas line?

 

1/4” fuel line for the breather, 5/8” fuel line for the evap box, 1” fuel filler hose for the fuel fill.

from the flatbed info thread.

 

Awesome

 

I cut the stock filler pretty short and got rid of all the bends essentially. I didn’t cut all the lines evenly so the hose clamps were parted a bit. Just make sure your hoses are very smooth flowing since it will cause the gas nozzle to kick off if there are any kinks.

 

Well, PSA was real.



Lasted about 4 years before a cracked formed. @Wishbone Runner what thickness of plate did you reinforce your frame. I have a bunch of 1/8th laying around but I’m thinking I’m going to have to go thicker.

 

Damn, they lasted pretty long then! I cut out the hole and patched with 3/16", and welded the mounts on the patch.

 

Yeah not too bad I guess. 3/16” plate it is. Thanks

 

Got the body mounts fixed up. Took about 6 hours from start to finish. Grinder and pait make me the welder I ain’t. It wasn’t fun redoing this but hopefully it holds. 3/16” plate on the frame and then old mounts welded back on. Made sure to grind out any cracks and weld them up before putting the plate over top.

also got some coolant stuff addressed. Wasn’t able to run the truck down the highway with the air conditioning on or in general without getting hot. Replaced coolant, thermostat, fan clutch, and water pump. While everything was out I also cleaned the rad and changed idler pulleys and tensioner pulley.



Toyota engineers just trolling when they designed this


truck can run down the highway with the air conditioning without issue now. Could have simply been the rad clean but with 250k kms it was time.