PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

Originally a thread called HVAC system keeps shorting out...

I’ve had my truck since new and only in the last few years have I been having electrical problems with the HVAC system; I would like to point out that both the A/C and the heat work great.

I replaced the original HVAC control module with one out of a totaled 2007 Tacoma when the original one shorted out. This one lasted barely a year before it too ceased to function; I got yet another one and not long after I put it in, the wiring harness melted. Thompson Toyota in Doylestown wanted over a grand for a brand new module, so I bought it from Conicelli Toyota for $720. My mechanic replaced the blower motor under warranty (since the previous blower motor was still covered), and basically rewired the entire HVAC system.

This evening while driving home, I had the stereo cranked and the window cracked, and realized it was getting colder in the truck. I held my hand over one of the vents and thought it must be on a lower fan setting; I saw that the fan was all the way up and immediately realized that the damn thing had shorted out again.

 

I pulled the HVAC module out when I got home and this is what I found…

 

Nowhere near as bad as what happened before, and I was able to piece it back together with electrical tape until I get it into the shop on Monday. Luckily, it will be warm enough to go without the heat on Sunday…

 

Looks like the solder seal connector failed because of a cold solder joint, not a fan of those for that reason. Use some proper heat seal butt connectors or leaded solder and heatshrink.
Also might want to look into my high speed relay mod so you aren't running all the current for high through the blower switch.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lay-mod-prevent-blower-switch-failure.827331/

 

I feel more comfortable having my mechanic undertake this, so I will be sending him a link to your thread. Why the hell did brand new parts fail so quickly?!?!

 

I don't see any pics of the control head but from the pics I do see like I said it looks like the splice failed from a cold solder joint which is common with those solder seal butt connectors, the solder just globs over the wire instead of wicking into it causing a poor connection.

Not sure what went on here though because those wires in your pics don't look that toast.

 

That's because they're brand new. The wires weren't even hot like the old ones used to get; I agree that the butt connector likely got too hot and simply melted. I have it rednecked back together with electrical tape for the weekend, I will only run it on lower fan speeds, and it's going to my mechanic on Monday or Tuesday...

 

Just curious, is the fan under the glove box an aftermarket or stock unit?

 

It's not original, but it's Toyota OEM according to my mechanic, so I'm assuming Denso...?

 

If it's OEM then l am sure it's OK. Started thinking it could have been a cheap unit that had high resistance causing more amps to be pulled through.

 

That was the case years ago, but my mechanic replaced it with a Denso unit...

 

Turned the AC on in my truck and it smelled odd and didn't feel right. Pulled the cabin filter to find a huge mouse nest, damn pests!

 

Uggggggg! Little Feckers!

 

I didn't realize that was insulation. At first glimpse it looked like raw chicken and rice.

 

Was your truck like parked for an extended period of time or something?

 

Probably for about a week, but that's not that unusual. I could just tell something didn't feel right when l flipped the AC on so l opened it up when l got to the grocery store and found that mess.

 

Don't even know where they got it from either, don't have pink insulation in my house or garage.

 

are the air ducts in your house or garage insulated?
I had them build a nest in a mower. The little bastards robbed the insulation off the air ducts.

 

You have me thinking that maybe it came from my neighbors house or garage, they are closer to my garage than my house is.

 

@ABA180
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I have already told @ColoradoTJ and @shakerhood about this...

I have some very good news; Amanda (@Stitchgirl90) is buying a car! The car is a 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser Touring Edition with 96K miles, currently owned by her landlady and about to be replaced by a 2012 Honda CRV EX-L. The PT Cruiser is a bit beat up but it has a clean title, the A/C works great, and it had easily over a thousand dollars worth of work done recently. The power steering pump leaks, but not badly, and the sunroof does not work. I found a touch screen HU with a CD player on Crutchfield for $100, and it is backup camera compatible. Amanda's landlady is letting us have the car for $800! Amanda has more than enough money, but it is in a CD account that will not mature until the end of May, but her landlady feels bad that we have been renting cars and is signing over the title on Saturday, even though Amanda won't be able to pay her until May 31st.

As for insurance, Amanda is still shopping around for a good rate, but we need the car to be street legal by this weekend, so I talked to my insurance company (USAA). Even though Amanda is not my spouse and lives at a different address, USAA will cover the Chrysler and let me add her to my policy as long as my name is on the registration. They are fine with Amanda being the only name on the title. I have full coverage on my Tacoma, but there is absolutely no point in having it on an $800 beater; USAA says that the liability coverage on the Taco will carry over to the Cruiser, but I am able to decline collision and comprehensive on the Cruiser while keeping it on the Taco. I was unable to get a 100% accurate quote without the Cruiser's VIN, but a rough estimate says about $65 fee for adding the car and around $300 added to my 6-month premium. This is way cheaper than renting cars or taking an Uber for six months!