Anything Manufacturing - Small to Medium Scale Metal Work (CAD/CAM included!)

Sounds pretty cool, should definitely post a pic of it.

I'm down for a few weeks with this whole table thing.

Two order requests came yesterday, another the night before, and earlier today the very guys at PrimeWeld sent someone my way as a referral! Thought it was cool as fuck for them to do that.

After I fulfill some orders I may have to do another raffle but something different just not sure what.

 

I'll dust it off in the morning and snap a pic or 2.

2 cool!

 

Do y'all take requests? I would love to have a tie rod insert(Toyota FJ80 "relay rod" tie rod end 1.2tpf taper) to be able to flip my tierod to the bottom of the pitman arm. A couple companies used to make them but don't anymore.

 

Jumping in since I've been playing with the mill. Carvera Air btw. Kinda a small work area (8"x12"x5" roughly) but comes with it's own CAM app (does basic 3/4 axis stuff okay) and I managed to do some steel engraving/cutting with it. Needs air assist (I'm working on it, it's set up for it but BYOAir) for the metal stuff, but the cuts look pretty rigid on the test steel plate. Rated for AL and comes with some sample metal materials.

 

We got two machinists in here - I'm not one of them

 

I'll draw it up in fusion, post it, and wait I guess

Would the real machinists please stand up

 

A picture is worth a thousand words!

 

You’re after something like this?
https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collecti...roducts/tie-rod-end-inserts-chevy-1-ton-taper

but toyota taper?

 

That's it!

 

And it's installed, thanks @Kwikvette. Painted it with Steel-It, nice stuff to work with but stinks like hell while curing. Much better than the OEM placard.

 

I would be curious if I could make that to the required tolerances on my little lathe but but I couldn’t get to it any time soon. Post your file though and I will for sure take a look.

 

Shiiiiiit looks perfect

 

Let me know what you think/what you might change. With this iteration the plan would be to drill out the factory taper to 3/4", drill a step for the flange on the bushing, then weld the flange to the pitman arm. I've included a STEP and F3D file made in Fusion360



Reference: https://www.omnicalculator.com/construction/taper

 

So, FWIW, I'm a self taught machinist.. does that make me a machinist? I dunno. At least I have machines. LOL. I have no idea what kind of tolerance you would need on the taper, but I'm guessing in this application in 1020 steel it doesn't have to be bananas. Can you find a reamer for that size? that would help, but I'm guessing no and you'd just cut the taper on the compound which requires a little set up but is not hard.

A couple design considerations - that internal corner on the flange will have a small radius on it - so if it's going in a hole with a sharp edge, you'd need a little relief, which I modeled. (looks like that part someone linked had one) If it's going in a hole with a chamfer, best to call out how big a radius is ok. For instance, I think my turn/facing tools have a .8mm radius (or so). I'd also call out chamfers/edge break as that will just help the part go in easier, and if you don't call it out a machinist may leave it sharp or do what they think is right. If you care about the size of a chamfer model it.

I'm crazy busy until mid may but if you are still looking for this remind me and maybe I can turn a couple for you! it's been a long time since I cut a taper w/o a taper attachment so I'm kinda curious if I can pull this off! lol.

 

I do have a toyota flag. I am attempting to not hang too much stuff yet before I insulate.

 

I got this one just looking for a home.

I'm leaning heavily towards doing a giveaway like @Kwikvette did.

Is there any interest?

 

I'm sure there'd be tons of interest, just have to post it in another section of the forum.

Maybe the B/S/T?

 

Usually works better if you include a pic...

 

STV table ordered!

 

I'm by far less of a machinist/engineer than any of you. I don't have machines but I can make something resemble something that I want in CAD, and print it on my 3d printer.

There is a 1.2" TPF taper available from a couple places but I think it's out of my price range.

I vaguely understand the need/want for a radius from the flange to the bushing wall, sharp edges crack easier(?), I don't know what a good radius would be. The hole will have the step for the flange cut with a drill bit by hand so whatever chamfer that will leave. As far as breaking/chamering the other edges they can be square, no body but me is going to be fondling this piece then it's going to be stuffed between a ball joint.