Stuck oil filter housing

They did not torque to 200. They most likely skipped on lubing the o-ring

 

I tighten my filter with one ugga, no duggas. The fact that I couldnt get the filter drain cap off yesterday pissed me off at the guy who overtightened it (me, 6500 miles ago)

 

This is the ticket.

https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/...th-locking-flex-ratchet-with-ergo-handle-teal

 

1st of all, there are no maintenance parts that require 200 torque. There are a few areas where you need such torque -crankshaft pulley, steering knuckle, some driveline/diff/axle components.
Get back to us after your next oil change and share how much torque you used to get it off. Hint, it it will take a breaker bar to get it off if you did not lube o-ring and threads enough.
I let o-ring to swim in the oil and drizzle threads with the oil. Then I can take the cap with this setup. Been doing it on 2 mine cars with this type for a decade

 

KY

 

Look carefully at the design of the housing and the cap. You suppose to stop cranking when 2 surfaces are met. No need to torque

 

Don't put any kind of "lubricant" on threads of filter housing.
Light bit of clean oil on outside of o ring to keep it from binding and lifting out of groove.
There are few threads that need "lubricant".
Maybe a little anti seize to wheel lugs.

 

Yeah, I learned to be mad at myself for over-tightening with my hands.

The darn housing things expands!

Definitely put a little dab of new oil on the o-ring on the housing unit...and put o-ring in the correct slotted area:

Also, I use a 27mm socket on the housing wrench (circled) instead of the 3/8 slot in the middle and a breaker bar...makes for much easier twist off.

Yes, I keep my composite housing as a back-up.

 

My joke flew over heads

 

Did you add an "lol" after making statement?

That's what I've learned after many years of being on a Forum.

 

You are lucky it did not break. I hope you inspected it for hair line cracks!

 

Once the o ring sets into place, it gets increasingly harder to remove. That's not a dealer problem, that's an expectation problem.


I just changed my oil today. 3rd time. I use the motivx wrench, and keep two composite filter housings so I can swap as I'm under there. I used a normal-length 3/8" ratchet(10"), and had to put everything I had into getting it off. Was seriously contemplating a ratcheting 2' breaker bar. I retightened with my hand halfway up the wrench to snug the new cap on. I'm probably not even hitting 10ft pounds.

When I change it again, I expect it'll be another fight.

Still an adjustment from spin on filters for me...

 

I changed oil in wife's RAV4 today. I had converted her car to the aluminum housing in 2019. No problem taking the housing off with the MichaelPro cap tool and a 1/2" wrench. Put it back by hand, till O-ring hit the engine mount, then snugged up with the MichaelPro and a wrench till housing touched the mount.
I think composite housing tends get tighter as car used. Different expansion rates?

 

Aluminum thermal expansion rate is greater than Delrin thermoplastic

 

I have changed my oil since day one and I had all those free oil changes never used them. I put a little fresh oil on the o ring and torque the housing to 18 ft. lbs. and I remove it with a 3/8 drive ratchet with a

$30 Motivx MX2320 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota Camry, Tundra, Tacoma, 4Runner, RAV4 and More - 64mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Removal Tool

Motivx MX2320 filter wrench.

 

Agree with you. I have done the same for many years for the RAV4, Corolla, Tundra, and now Tacoma.

 

Pit monkeys with no convolutions in their brain structure don't read simple instructions.

It's offensive to them.
They know their version of tight is right in their simpleton minds.

Picture Lenny da pit monkey "Of Mice and Men" ....

 

Lube techs and porters are the lowest paid bunch at dealerships. Janitors make more than they.

Toyota Care is a scam. When my wife brought her new 4Runner in for 5000 mile service, they did not change the oil, because it's not "required" according to Toyota Care.

 

I took my wife's Tacoma for an oil change under The Toyota Care-around 2,000 miles, so all they did was the required 50-point inspection, but no no free oil & filter change change. I decided to have the oil and filter changed at a cost of $125.00. But last week I had Toyota Care to do an oil and filter change under the under the 2-year Toyota Care since it expires in December. I like to replace oil and filters twice per year, one in April, and the other in November, regardless of miles driven. The reason for this is that during the very cold winter there are a great numbers of engine idling hours, specially when trucks and cars are parked outdoors. I take care of oil and filter changes on my own (2013 Tundra, 2010 RAV4 V6 with Mobil 1 and Toyota filters), and soon will be doing the same with my wife's 2023 Tacoma, although everything will be documented and will use Toyota oil and Toyota filters.

 

If you buy filters from Toyota online by the case (10 at a time), they are less than $5 a piece.
Conicelli Toyota of Springfield:

$47 Genuine Scion - tC Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10) - 04152-YZZA1 by Toyota

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QVVV7M