Any woodworkers?

I find that if I slow the bit rpm way down, keep the cuts for the final pass very light, and keep moving then the burning is usually far less. Now having said that some woods are just very prone to burning. Cherry and other hardwoods are difficult to rout without some burning

 

The new hbuild has been keeping us busy, so no recent projects although I do have an 8/4 walnut blank waiting to be a cutting board.

The framers at the build know I'm building a shop and have been saving scrap materials for me. This past weekend was getting it off the ground so the garage and shop floors can be started. There is another shelf like to the left with OSB.

Mechanicals should start this week. Windows, front door and stone work are done. Roof is on and there are a few more trees that need to come down.

On that note, we have a lot of maple that's too small to mill. Same with most of the poplar and oak. I was able to get about half of what we already have down cut and stacked Friday and Saturday. Almost broke the fitbit (and me), 16 miles of walking around the build site in two days.


Maybe this week I can work on my cutting board for a few minutes!

 

Bloodwood (janka 2900), Padauk (1725), 2 Maples (1450), Ash (1350), Cherry (950). I think I might have *some* "hardwood" in there.

Thanks for the answer.

 

Last few weeks I've been redoing my office desk setup single I completed my new pc. I built a new base for the pc to sit on and refinished my desk I did like 8-10 years ago and rounding over the whole thing to make it a lot nicer.



Before and after hours of sanding


Bonus: With everything back in the office I started working on some under desk management because I didn't want any cables hanging around I like it clean. =D

For those interested the whole files are available at https://makerworld.com/en/models/545105-underware-the-ultimate-cable-management-solution and https://www.multiboard.io/

 

If anyone is near Louisa, KY, there is a guy selling hardwoods for great prices. Walnut (seconds) for $1 a board foot. Better walnut for $3 a board foot. Cherry for 80 cents a board foot. I just got back from there, 132 miles one way. He has slabs of walnut, buckeye, poplar and cherry. I don’t think I’m allowed to post the link. Message me and I’ll give the info to you. The lumber is in 400 board foot bundles.

 

After posting my Blantons stopper display, I had a few people on other sites ask about getting one. So, I made four today. All are different profiles and finishes.



They display stoppers that spell out Blantons like this.

 

Looks great! I've been toying with idea for a few years to do something similar to hold test tubes/blood vacutainers. Have a large amount of expired tubes at work that can't be used, and thought I'll eventually make some little display stands to hold a few, put a small flower in each, and give them as gifts to my coworkers/medical friends. Just have never gotten around to it. Figured desk decorations would be about the only way to repurpose the tubes. Its either that or make a big wreath out of them for Christmas time to hang on an office door.

 

I mead a bunch of those and gave them to coworkers for Christmas presents last year. Super easy to make.

 

Nice! I really like the trapezoid ones, both with and without the center hole. Seems like I could make quite a handful of those with just a 2x4! lol.

 

Very cool

 

Maple or cherry is not *that* expensive is smaller amounts ... think "board feet" instead "linear feet". A couple in wenge, purple heart, padauk or bloodwood for visual effect for special people would be worth the money for me.

And a local shop has "ends and castoffs" of zebra, maple, purple heart, live-edge, etc for $2/pound.

Also ... for extra special folk even my fists of ham were able to accomplish this, which still waits final sand-to-level and top-coat on the epoxy that fills the routed letters ...

 

Cherry was the most cost effective for our hardwood shelving

 

My brother accepted the offer of this highly-flawed item despite all of my disclaimers. Well ... my standards are high at least ... just a couple more coats of wood sealer.

 

Not my shop!

 

I would love to have a shop like that! The only problem is that my skills wouldn't match my shop and folks would have much higher expectations of my work. LOL

 

Why did you have to show us what we know we will never have!

 

It’s the Coast Guard shop in Kodiak. Neat place

 

I just thought it was interesting…

 

Real question about woods for cutting boards ...

While finishing/sealing a board with African Padauk I noticed that the padauk has rice-sized surface pitting. Not deep, but essentially "everywhere". Some sample wenge I have shows that same pitting as does purple heart to a degree. Bloodwood/maple/cherry and even ash (with wide/broad surface pattern) do not seem to show this. On a food-surface those pits collect food particles, correct? And sealing "oils" absorb into the wood instead of making an artificially smooth flat surface.

What woods are most/least troublesome to have this "pitting" and how to deal with it short of poly-anything (-eurathane, -crylic, etc)?

PS: Courtesy of a warning label on a 1/4 in thick accent piece ...

Drilling, sawing, sanding or machining wood products can expose you to wood dust, a substance known to the Sate of California to cause cancer.

 

That's called an open pore wood. Red oak is also that way but white oak is closed cell or closed pore. Walnut is also open pored. Some woods it's larger and noticeable and not so much in other woods. Walnut is not as extreme. Usually a good coat or 2 of a mineral oil and wax blend will seal the smaller pored woods. Reapply as needed. I tend to stay away from exotics in cutting boards that will be actually used. I tend to stick with domestic hardwoods. They are not always as pretty but definitely more functional and usable. I tend to use cherry, ash, white oak, maple, Walnut, etc.