Wheel bearing. Prerunner 2000 tacoma

I have a 2000 prerunner and want some suggestions on front wheel bearings. Looking for something not made in china.any suggestions from you first gen gurus? Thanks to all.

 

Koyo

https://www.yotashop.com/wheel-bear...ROPZiINt6mORjFDQ9gAvV4KKq7HPxmBZKOBmGcGHuuKxW

 

These bearings over 100 bucks ea! That’s crazy. Am I only taco owner that’s ever replaced front bearings? With anything not made in china?

 

Timken SET29 (USA)

I've used them in past, high quality. I ordered from Rock Auto.

 

someone can’t read??

 

So you want quality bearing at quantity price? Want Made in USA or Japan parts at Made in China prices???

Can’t wait until you replace your LBJ.

 

OP will dislike SET29 as it cost more than the one I suggested, Koyo Made in Japan. $62.87 vs $79.79

 

02hilux,
The KOYO DU5496-6 bearing being sold by Yota Shop is even better than just a low price. Info direct from KOYO JAPAN: The KOYO DU5496-6LFT front wheel bearing is a new design with 2 additional internal rollers AND a new low torque seal. Bottom line: The new KOYO DU5496-6LFT bearing is the new standard for front wheel bearings on our first gen Tacos AND Yota Shop has a killer price on them. I just replaced both my FWBs with OEM Toyota FWBs which were actually the old design KOYO DU5496-5 bearings in Toyota packaging. Next time, I will be using the new design KOYO -6LFT bearings. In all likelihood, Toyota will be selling and installing the old design OEM/KOYO DU5496-5 FWB until they are out of stock. HTH

 

Koyo FTW but apparently it’s not good enough somehow…..

 

because it’s MADE IN JAPAN

 

No... most of us have replaced them at this point. I used OEM. I didn't complain about the price (whatever it was 4 years ago) cause quality costs money.

 

You might want to purchase a couple of new hubs also.
I just replaced the bearings on my 03 Prerunner and was glad I had new hubs.

 

It's hilarious to think that the guy complaining about the price of bearings is going to spring for the hubs as well...

Also.. what was so "wrong" with your hubs that they needed to be replaced? Do you have a rust belt truck or something? I certainly didn't think twice about reusing my original hubs...

 

I used my original hubs too, replaced my front bearings a couple weeks ago with OEM as well. Didnt care about the price

 

I used bearings that came in the hub pack from rockauto (not sure its still offered). The whole set was cheaper than 1 bearing above. I also use mevotec LBJs, chinese carrier bearing, and a no-name steering rack. If you ask TW, my truck will explode from the bottom end at any moment.
Tbh I do worry most about the bearings as I just replaced them, but the other parts have served me fine for years already.

 

I'm sure the OP will get over the sticker shock.

1. Nothing wrong with the old hubs yet as I still haven't pulled the old race off yet.
I didn't have to stop the bearing job and do this since I had new hubs. $30 a piece from Rock Auto.

2. Not everyone is at the same tech level as seasoned mechanics or persons such as yourself and others. Being 70 years old I'm also twice as slow.

3. I lent out my large bearing splitter and it came back missing all the nuts, bolts and crossbar. My smaller set is too small.

Did you cut off the old race as I'm in the process of doing? Please explain your method for my education. Thanks in advance...!!!

 

I don't know if the hubs on the 2wd trucks are different (doubt it) but I pressed the hub out of the bearing with a press... not sure how you ended up with the inner race of the bearing...

 

FWIW, I’m pretty sure those are advertised as -6 but are actually -5. The -6 are actually about $125 each.

$100 90369-54002 Bearing

90369-54002, KOYO no longer exists and is rebranded by its parent company JTEKT. They are consolidating.

They sell the -5 at $65ish plus shipping 90369-54001 and the -6 at $125ish plus shipping 90369-54002.

 

They split all the time. The inner race getting stuck is very common. I don’t recommend cutting it off. Invert the hub and suspend with metal plates then hit it with MAPP gas. It will expand enough to drop off. Otherwise I use a bearing splitter to pull it off, probably the same one @Rob MacRuger is missing parts.

 

Map gas I have, thank you.