Truck Feels A Bit Squirrelly Sometimes

This is 100% true, every time I visit my folks I double check my life insurance policy.

 

Just got off the phone with Quantum the shop that put my tires on, told them about my problem and this thread where everyone says I need more caster. Got an appointment Thursday at one to do an alignment for $129.

He said Wilson 4x4 should redo the alignment under warranty since it's only been 2 months, but I have to drive about 35 miles and drop the truck off the day before. They don't have an alignment machine.

I'd rather pay $129 and be able to wait on site for the work to be done. I hope this fixes the problem.

 

What I posted above was a overly fast day. This is the normal speeds on 95 in my area.

 

Still pretty fast compared to IL. We normally don't get above 80

 

New tire size compounds the issue.
I bet the issue will get better if you roll back to the original side , plus alignment

 

While it is likely he needs some caster, the chalk test is very useful for showing that you are creating an even contact patch, meaning your tire is neither under or overinflated at a typical load. Especially useful when changing multiple variables and trying to find which ones might be causing problems.

He got new, larger tires. The shop inflated them like 6-8# of pressure higher than would create an even contact patch. The truck is "squirrely" when there's crosswinds.

He can either find a stick of chalk and a parking lot this afternoon, or wait a few days to see an alignment shop.

I use the chalk test on every vehicle. My older civic, which usually just has me in it, i keep a 2# difference between my front and rear to keep even wear, which has worked well for close to 40k miles.

 

I think you are driving to slow get your speed up to 96 mph and your problem will go away.

 

Yes, especially on 840.

 

Minimum, I think you'll want some new UCA to allow you to get your caster where you need it.

My dealer did same, pumped them up to 44 psi, rode horrible, when I backed them down to 32 it felt great, and handled smooth.

 

Before we spend your money, you probably won't be able to get anymore caster. You are probably maxed out. To get more caster, you will need to replace your upper control arms. That also could add to more problems in the way of rubbing from the increased caster. Lots of variables when you start making changes.

 

So you have never done this nonsense, but you somehow know it will help?? I'm confused. I have done this as well as worked many years in the tires business and I can tell you for fact that it is little more than a gimmick. If it was really that simple you would see every major racing division doing it.

 

More caster might help, but I can tell you that I have 4* caster, 33’s, a 2” lift, and my truck still blows around in the wind. Otherwise is drives really good.

TBQH, I’ve not noticed any difference between now and stock.

 

Apples to oranges. Racing teams don't change tire sizes like we see in our trucks. There is no good data to know what pressure to run when you change from a 265/60/16 to a 255/80/17. It's all guesswork. Manufacturers' suggested pressure is just that, a suggestion to get you close and varies based on vehicle weight, etc. I've seen the chalk method used, and for some tires, it works real well in helping predict what tire pressure will give you the best wear.

I do know that at one point (quite a few years ago), race teams did this to see how flat their tires were running at certain pressures. These days, it's not necessary because the tire manufacturers in racing series have so much data on the manufacturing processes and sizes that they are using that they can come to the track and suggest a pressure range of maybe 3 PSI. Some series require the tires be run within that window. Teams have been disqualified for running outside of that window due to safety concerns.

FYI, I raced for 18 years and helped around racing for several more years, since you want to swing dicks.

 

Chalk tests have often led me to PSI numbers that were way too low (like 20-25PSI), which that obviously wouldn't be so good for MPG or tire longevity (having even treadwear doesn't mean much when the whole tire wears out faster).

I run 35 PSI (40 or so on my E-loads). With as much aired-down offroad driving I do (together with tire rotations) I've never had the treadwear in the center be noticeably greater on any of mine.

I agree with what others have said, more caster angle is what's needed here.

 

Hey now, even low-budget racing teams measure tire temperature instead of chalk test. If middle of the tire is hotter than near the shoulders, then pressure is too high.

 

I said many years ago...they didn't have IR temp gauges in the 70s. They didn't even have the instant touch ones until what, the late 90s?

 

You are an idiot. You say you have never done the test, now you are saying you have seen it and it works? WTF? Please explain which I know you can't how it works on some and not others.

So your racing experience is accurate and you have exactly proved my point. The chalk test is a joke and provides zero useful information. There is real data that you can use to get to your optimal pressure. Putting chalk on your tires provides nothing. Swing your dick as much as you want it won't make you any smarter.

 

I just had TRD Suspension upgrade completed on April 3, 2025.

Took it back to dealership and they adjusted U-Bolts/put them in correct position on the bump stop ears.

I also had them re-do alignment.

Truck does well at highway speed...I traveled 50 miles one way to dealership...so my Sport drove as before with 2" Lift in front and 1" blocks in the back.

What I've noticed is, the truck runs just fine now.

I believe, once the suspension gets seated/adjusted to driving, everything goes back to the way it was before...except my Bilsteins are 100% better than the Hitachis that were removed.

I'm going to re-torque the bolts (as friends have suggested) that were removed for install...but for now, my truck drives great!

 

Just got back from the tire shop. They checked the alignment and said it was fine. Dude drove my truck afterwards about 10 miles between 50 to 75 MPH and felt how it drove...I was with him.

Is it just something I'm gonna have to get use to? Maybe I'm high thinking it would handle the same as it did stock?

 

The only way it’s going to drive like stock is put it back stock.