Motorcycles BS Thread 2.0

Trail is where mine gets hottest and fan runs non stop. Just recently added a digital coolant temp on the rad outlet side and it's nuts how it keeps getting hotter at idle on the trail and slow first speed. As soon as you get 2nd gear airflow it drops massively, ~20 C / 68 F and stays there, bike likes to run cool that's for sure.

 

Should mention that's temp drop, not running temp. Running trail is anywhere from 80 C - 98 C / 176 F - 208 F.

 

I might be going back to a Toyota anyway.

 

ya honestly idk i find it rather odd as well. actually i have a question does the klx300 dual sport and sm only have a radiator on one side of the bike and a horn on the other? i know my buddys wr250 is like this for the dual sport version

 

why that? you find an older tundra like the one you had?

also you are getting as bad as me with trucks man lol

 

I'm worse than you with vehicles! Lol

It'd be a new '25

 

Dual rads on mine still, rad fan on right side one (which is secondary rad). Horn is below the left side rad.

 

I don't think I updated y'all.. heard back from Rottweiler on my powercommander map. He asked which akra exhaust I had, to send a picture, then said "yeah, that one has a cat, your map is for a free flowing exhaust. Cut out the cat or get a new exhaust if you want to use that map".

Sooo i'm ripping out my power commander. Anyone looking for one for a KTM or Husky? lol I'll give you a good deal. Just don't want to put $800 into an exhaust right now when I like the akra on it. And realistically don't need the extra hp or 2.

 

Why not just gut the cat? From a performance standpoint, the PC is a fantastic tool. It's not so much about the extra 2 HP you might get, but the smoothing of the curve where you might notice the difference. I don't own a KTM, but I know Rottweiler is a respected name in KTM tuning. I bet their map will make a notable difference with when paired with the right exhaust setup.

 

X2 for gut the cat.

 

Not wrong, it's very respected, but yeah, don't feel great gutting the cat. And I really don't want to keep having to try mods to see if the map is actually going to be right afterwards. Feels like I'm throwing parts at it, and in this case non-reversibly doing so if I were to gut it. I have the rottweiler fuel dongle to help out up to roughly 50% throttle. I listed it on ADVRider and would rather have the $350 to drop on other mods. Stock map + fuel dongle will be fine.

PC6's are also SO locked down if you aren't a dealer or a dyno. See my previous posts about not being able to actually see the base map, just guessing at a wall of zeros.

 

Is that as water/dust proof as well? Or just vibration issues.

 

Lol true!


Also I'm sorry but that is a stupid AF choice... That new tundra is a massive POS.


But you do you

 

Huh then I have no clue then! Damn kawi skimping on shit! Ye bike does seem to get hot but never bad tbh. I have seen some people add the fan thou and I have looked into it.

 

I think youre making the right move.

I wouldnt both gutting the cat either.

Id say unplug it and test with the fuel dongle before selling to make sure the bike doesnt run worse than you want now (unless you already did)

 

No worse than the Ford 10 speed. It's the same one you had in your ranger.

 

Aluminum is more prone to cracking next to welds. The weld super heats the material and believe it or not the area right next to the weld is more brittle than the fill material itself after. It’s just a softer metal. Nothing some practice and a cheap welder can’t fix and touch up.

 

Yes but according to Ford they fixed the cdf drum issue. And I have people that have the newer 10spd after 22 with no issues and high miles.

 

So the PC6 isn't doing anything currently and it's running pretty well, the map 2 is base map no changes, and I have the fuel dongle installed, and that's the position I've been riding with. So in theory, it's basically all bypassed right now anyway. There are so many plugs tucked away I'm also glad to be getting rid of that "one more thing to go wrong" failure point. Injector, o2, coil, ecu, battery, switch, it's in the middle of practically every signal.

 

Ah i maybe forgot you said that about map 2.

Yeah i recall it being between a lot of the important signals too. It was a bit of a hassle to put in and tuck everything away.