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1st gen ABS delete

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Mark98Yota, Apr 24, 2025.

  1. Apr 24, 2025 at 11:25 AM
    #1
    Mark98Yota

    Mark98Yota [OP] New Member

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    Hello Tacoma World,
    Long time reader but first time poster! Have found a lot of great information on this forum.
    My question:
    My ABS actuator has failed. Typical I know from reading and reading and reading. I am in the process of removing and rerouting the lines. Pretty straightforward thus far but have a few general questions/comments:
    1-My current MC is an ABS style per Toyota part #'s, diagrams, repair manual, etc. Only difference I see is the plunger stop bolt is different between non-ABS & ABS MC's.
    Question: On the rerouting and keeping the ABS MC intact, should I run the front brakes from the front port of MC and rea?
    2-
     
  2. Apr 24, 2025 at 11:58 AM
    #2
    Red_03Taco

    Red_03Taco Well-Known Member

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    In what way did your ABS actuator fail? Is it leaking? If not, why not just remove the ABS fuse to disable the system and leave all the brake lines alone? I did that to mine about a year ago and have had absolutely zero issues since
     
    dzuf likes this.
  3. Apr 24, 2025 at 1:11 PM
    #3
    02hilux

    02hilux What do you mean there’s no road, I’m here

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    I did the ABS and LSPV delete at the same time while adding a Wilwood adjustable proportional valve for the rear drum. The hard lines for the front are no longer available new but can be found used from non-abs from 95.5-04. Pulled all the hard lines, keeping them in-tact as I recalled reusing 1 of them to feed the rear from the MC to the frame connection, located on top of the frame and directly below the brake booster. As for the front, at the 3-way tee (brass color) located below the MC, I use that as a splitter between L & R. There's 2 hard lines feeding the LSPV, I delete 1 line (completely pulling it out) and kept one in place. I placed the proportional valve as close as possible to the MC. At the end where the LSPV was located, I connect the soft line directly to the hard line.
     
  4. Apr 24, 2025 at 1:14 PM
    #4
    02hilux

    02hilux What do you mean there’s no road, I’m here

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    These were the part number for the hard line non-abs. I believe they’re discontinued

    950.jpg
    942.jpg
     
    ControlCar likes this.
  5. Apr 25, 2025 at 5:31 AM
    #5
    LightsOff

    LightsOff Active Member

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    Have any pics of the Wilwood placement? How do you like the setup now? Have you wanting to adjust for loads (whether you get out and do it or not) or has it been a set it and forget it type of thing?
     
  6. Apr 25, 2025 at 6:49 AM
    #6
    02hilux

    02hilux What do you mean there’s no road, I’m here

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    Once you get it dialed in, it’s a set and forget. Some users like to replace the lspv with the proportional valve at its location, but I would hate it if someone were to messed with the turn knob for whatever reason. Definitely brake better without the abs/lspv. I roamed around several years after the delete no issue and changed the brake setup again but the concept remained the same. Has larger front brakes with rear disc. I can still lock my 42s.

    IMG_4814.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2025 at 7:02 AM
    ControlCar and rish57 like this.
  7. Apr 29, 2025 at 2:15 PM
    #7
    Mark98Yota

    Mark98Yota [OP] New Member

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    Sorry everyone. When I started this post, I had a certain order of typed questions but began rethinking my approach and accidently hit submit (new signee here - longtime reader!). The reason #2 question never really began. Got busy and just now reading again.

    02hilux:
    Did you replace the MC with a non-ABS one? Looking at your PV picture, and hard to tell, it appears you have the non-ABS MC per Toyota ABS vs. Non ABS diagrams .
    If you did change the MC, what brand did you go with?

    Haven't dug too deep yet, measured bore diameter, etc., but wondering if the Yotshop BMT-081 or BMT-051 would work with my 98 Tacoma 3.4? I do have the 4 stud mount MC.

    What model # is the Willwood? I will research.

    Thanks for the part #'s on the lines.

    I've considered keeping the LSPV. Anyone see the disadvantages outside of simply removing it, having better adjustability and everyone seems to do it? I don't off road (outside of land surveying) but fixing/replacing brake issues from the previous owner (I assume). I bought it to putz around town, trout fish, etc. to save miles on my Tundra (work truck - 422k so far - 2011) and somewhat restore. Like the many Yota's I either currently have or have owned, you start and things certainly escalate from the beginning but I enjoy it. Already have rebuilt the power steering R & P, complete rebuild of front knuckles, new CV axles, all new brakes, rotors, drums and bearings. My wife wonders why it's never on the road and there seem to be more empty Yuengling's laying around before cleanup. lol. Safer that way I guess.
    Thanks.
     
  8. Apr 29, 2025 at 2:41 PM
    #8
    02hilux

    02hilux What do you mean there’s no road, I’m here

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    No, my 02 original setup is with abs. I drove around for a few years with the LSPV & ABS delete before changing the booster & MC to a 3rd gen 4R than once more to the current pre-00 Tacoma booster & MC. Never once had an issue with any of the 3 booster/MC.

    The original setup is abs with single diaphragm booster with 13/16” MC as the 3rd gen 4R had the dual diaphragm booster and weird 1” MC. When I found a pre-00 Tacoma setup with the dual diaphragm and 1” MC, I swapped it again. I donated the 4R to a buddy to use on his Tacoma. The swap was in preparation of my solid axle swap and 80 front brakes & rear disc/drum brakes.

    -Wilwood proportioning valve part number: 260-8419
    -LowRange Offroad 1/8NPT male to M10x1.0 inverted flare female (for Toyota double flare brake line): DIY-A-18NPT-M10


    Picture 1: 4R setup
    Picture 2: stock Tacoma vs 1t 1-1/16” t100 (end up doing the 4R instead, refunding the 1T t100 setup)
    Picture 3: current setup, dual diaphragm w/ 1” MC

    3055.jpg
    3023.jpg
    IMG_4814.jpg
     
  9. Apr 29, 2025 at 4:46 PM
    #9
    ControlCar

    ControlCar My Moto: Help & Learn…period.

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    Clock Volt meter/LSPV Delete/Hyundai 16’s/FP gauge/after 9months of wrenching ZERO oil leaks
    Mark98

    what’s your budget

    02hilux’s set up is bad ass/clean
    I wish I had $ for the same
     
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  10. Apr 30, 2025 at 11:01 AM
    #10
    Mark98Yota

    Mark98Yota [OP] New Member

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    02hilux
    Thanks for the clarification and information.

    ControlCar
    Fix as I go budget. lol. Wife hates this style of budget.
    Seriously though, I'm in fixing these brakes and am going to do what it takes to get her back on the road soon and be safer.

    I don't believe my MC/BB is an issue but have read where folks changed out to the 2 ports on the side in lieu of one port on top (front), one port on side (rear) and is my current MC. Still haven't been able to ascertain the differences outside of the plunger stop screw is in a different location. Non-ABS is in between the 2 ports and ABS one is farther forward. My opinion is that the front top port was designed to route the line to the ABS actuator more efficiently. My take on it. Will say that, and per Toyota diagramming, the ABS rear port runs to the tee below the MC and the Non-ABS front port runs to the tee below the MC. See the diagrams attached.

    Anyone know of any functional differences between the 2 MC port location styles?

    ABS - Brake Diagram-A.jpg
    Non-ABS brake Diagram.jpg
     

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