Bandido's Bad at Taking Pictures '03 DC Build

No worries man, glad you are enjoying the build!!

I'm happy to answer more questions if you get around to swapping your taco!

We've had snow here in KY for the first time since I've lived here, I used to ice race my red truck back in the day, and this 2GR setup is absolutely wicked fun in the snow!!

 

Been a minute since I had time to really work on the double cab frame and parts, but i took Friday off and was able to finish tacking up all my control arms, and cut out several parts.

 

What joint is that on the uppers - sealed uniball?

 

i gotta come visit you some time. you seem like a great bad influence

 

Im gonna try an icon delta joint and see how long they last...

Somewhat disapointingly, I'll have all ballistic fab joints on the lower links, so they may not last/get rebuilt over and over like i had hoped.

 

Sounds like a good choice to try out. I actually meant the pivots - are those sealed units?

I only know of one guy that started trying these out in SoCal, so no long term / salt info:

https://www.tmrcustoms.com/collections/lifetime-heim-uniballs

 

looks the same as summit joints, they have been around a while and seem to work well.

 

the inners on the lower will simply be poly bushings.

the inners on the uppers are forged threaded shank Poly Bushings, the Brass Uniball cup heat sink and aluminum bushing inserts are still in the upper for fixturing to tack it together.

the front trailing link join is a 2inch Ballistic Joint with Delrin, basically the same as a Johnny Joint or anti-wobble, not truly a uniball profile, the rear joint on the link is a 2inch ballistic forged rod end, which is the same concept as that TMR Joint, just in a threaded shank, not a weldable housing.

 

I purchased a scale model of a 1G double cab to fine tune my fit on the frame as I'm not going to take my truck apart for the couple months it would take me to actually finish the ole girl, specifically this is to lock in the wheelbase and axle positions with respect to the cab within about .5"

I plan to run K03 37" tires once they are available, and modeling them up, to minimize Tubbing the cab, and keep some separation of the bed and cab, these images are of the wheelbase at 127" (front axle forward 2" rear axle backwards 3" I had planned to go to 125" (front axle forward 1" rear axle backwards 2") which is still what I should probably do, but it leaves less fender and bedside than I intended.

 

Had you ever considered running a 6’ bed even if it was bobbed to get the space between the rear axle and the back of the cab?

 

I have. I'm not really interested in a really long boi like that however, I'm just making sure this section of the bedside would still exsist with 37's

 

Are you keeping steel bedsides?

 

only short term, I'm really split between buying glass and doing a DIY/3D Print job.

 

Just finished reading through the entire thread. Looks like I found this just in time for the real fun to start! Looking forward to see how the LT comes together.

 

I haven't had time to really work on this between life and all my other projects, on the way back from a vacation my Wife Reminded me that Ford already solved this problem...
that left me little time to do nothing but browse on the plane recently, and realized Ford solved the problem I currently have with my rear spring packaging (either outside the frame - risk for a HARD rub in flex; or Inside the frame and crash thru the bed) in a very different way... the run the spring outside the frame behind the rear axle, which allows clearance in flex, but puts a huge torque thru the Axle housing... which ford C/M by balancing to the shock, maybe I should model this and consider it? I had not done any evals to see how much torque is put thru the axle from my swing arm pivot location

 

Frame notch and boxing in seems the way to go if you’re worried about shocks rubbing.

 

I'm actually worried about tire x spring seat, and a simple notch (just cutting the 2x4 tube and backing it with 2x4 tube does not allow it to clear at full flex... I have digital images, just not at the moment.

keep in mind I'm not running a coilover + bypass, but a spring + smart bypass (same as the raptor gen 3)

 

Oh I'm sorry I forgot you were running a link setup and was talking about outboard shock clearing on a leaf setup - are you doing a coil spring link with a separate shock or a coilover link setup?

I've seen 3rd gen 4runners with an outboard coilover 3 and 4 link, but not sure on how much they had to work on getting the coils to clear the frame outside.

The FGP 3 link for the 4 runner that uses a separate coil spring and shock absolutely works in the fast stuff. You may want to look at that. It works on a stock 4runner axle and with the gas tank also.

 

so conceptually I am doing a triangulated 4 link with a Shock + Spring based mostly on LT Gladiators, but kept me rear frame rails straight... and now need a notch inboard bigger than ~2in (the easy notch to make with the 2x4 tube I'm using for frame rails. Setting the Springs inboard leaves me with some pretty severe bed space to solve... which I can do, just considering options




Notch not shown, but the springs are sitting in a ~2in notch outboard.


Flipping them to outboard but with a 2in notch inboard... this is nearly ideal, but


There's sidewall interference with Flex, a ~4inch notch would basically be ideal, which I could do, just more annoying to do really.


2in notch inboard, shifted to the rear ~6in to be similar to the gen3 raptor, not quite clearing at flex

 

@betterbuckleup Ok my details are waaayyy more ass than I remembered.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ures-03-dc-build.518093/page-10#post-26078607 covers the trans/motor combo

I did modify the lower oil pan to clear the front diff, made my own mounts, had to modify the intake manifold, and made my own headers/exhaust.