Yet another Starts but dies after seconds post...

Yes. I have used the search and read most if not all the posts regarding this issue.

The shop I took it to still hasn’t fixed it, so I am hoping that posting here will help.

Symptoms

Engine died suddenly while driving on highway.

Will start, but engine will stall and stop within seconds

Revving engine after starting will keep it running for a few more seconds, but still dies shortly.

Continued starting drained battery.

Issues addressed

Fuel resistor checks OK. Bypassing resistor doesn’t help. Had same problem in the past and it was the resistor. So, been down that road already...

No obvious vacuum/air leaks or bad wires/connections.

Took truck to shop. Shop replaced fuel pump, points to ECM being the problem.

Still sitting in shop. Need truck for work. Shop can’t keep the truck running. I think it fired up and ran for a bit after the pump was replaced, but the issue still remains.

I assume that the shop checked the fuel pressure/scanned codes and performed other initial diagnosis methods that would be called for in this situation by the service manual.



Still to check (I still need to...don’t know if the shop checked)

MAF sensor - Spark plugs/coils

Seriously doubt a issue with the key or ignition switch

Would assume the fuel pump relay would be on the initial checklist.

Wouldn’t think the ECU would be at fault unless there were some serious electrical shorts or other external problems that would damage it. I once drowned the ECM in a 2nd gen 4runner I had still drove it while it kept sputtering and dying... eventually dried it out and still worked solid... outlived the 20+ year old truck.

Additionally replacing the ECM would be problematic on a few levels I would imagine?

Can’t afford to throw money into parts that doesn’t fix the issue so here I am...Ideas??

 

What code(s) do you have?

 

Currently not sure as the truck is in the shop right now. I don't think the codes shed any light on the issue as I know that was the first thing the shop checked.
BTW... the truck is a 2013 stock SR5 4x4 6 cyl. Access cab

 

I mean without being able to gather some more info and test there's not alot I can help with.

Some things I know can cause a start/stall on Toyota are:

Fuel pump relay with burnt contacts (the fuel pump relay switches the fuel pump from high speed (direct power) to low speed (through the fuel pump resistor)), the truck always starts on high speed and switches to low speed after a few seconds.

A shorted Ignition Confirmation (IGF) circuit. The coils each send a pulse on the IGF circuit when they fire, if the ECM does not see that pulse it will shut down fuel to that cylinder and set a P035x (coil circuit) code where x is the cylinder number.
If the IGF circuit is shorted to ground (which is relaively common with alot of cheap aftermarket/"performance" coils for one to pull the circuit down) the ECM won't see any IGF signals and will shut off all the injectors after a few seconds and set P0351-P0356 codes.

An immobilizer issue although this will typically be just a no start instead of a start/stall and would be accompanied by the security light next to the clock flashing with the key on.


ECM would be very low on my list of suspects just because they don't fail very often.

Without any more info on codes, data, and testing I can't really tell you any more.

Again all of this the shop should be able to figure out if they are reading service info and doing proper testing, if they aren't and are just wanting to fire parts at it & "hope that's it" find a different shop that does proper diagnostics and not parts shotgun diagnostics.

 

AI Analysis:

High Probability Culprits Based on Symptoms
These are common causes for "starts then dies" that last just seconds and don't throw helpful codes:

1. Immobilizer/Anti-Theft System Issue

• Why it fits: Many Toyotas will start and run briefly with a bad key, transponder issue, or failing immobilizer system, then die.
  
  
• What to check:
  
  • Does the security light stay on or flash weirdly when you start the truck?
    
    
  • Try starting with a different key.
    
    
  • ECM may be fine, but immobilizer module/key reader can cause issues like this without storing proper OBD-II codes.
    

2. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

• Why it fits: A bad MAF can cause the engine to die quickly unless airflow data is present and valid.
  
  
• Quick test:
  
  • Try unplugging the MAF sensor and starting the engine.
    
    • If it runs better with it unplugged, you likely found your problem.
      

3. Crankshaft Position Sensor / Camshaft Position Sensor

• Why it fits: These sensors tell the ECM when to inject fuel/spark. If they fail, engine can start (from residual values) but stall immediately.
  
  
• No code sometimes: A marginal or intermittent failure may not always trigger a code.
  
  
• Test: You can monitor with a scan tool (if the shop has one with live data) or test for resistance/voltage at the sensor directly.
  

4. Fuel Delivery – Check Fuel Pressure After Prime

• Possibility: Fuel pump may be new, but what about:
  
  • Fuel pressure regulator
    
    
  • Clogged fuel filter
    
    
  • Electrical feed to the pump under load
    
• If pressure drops off right after startup, you’ll get a similar symptom.
  
  
• Confirm if fuel pressure holds steady when it dies.
  

5. ECM Grounds or Power Feed Issue

• While ECM failure is rare, a flaky ground or corroded power feed could make it behave erratically.
  
  
• Suggest the shop check:
  
  • Main grounds
    
    
  • Power to ECM during run/start
    
    
  • Any aftermarket wiring (alarms, remote start, stereo systems) can interfere with ignition or ECM logic.
    

❌ Low Likelihood (But Still Possible)

• Ignition switch – not common if engine cranks and runs momentarily.
  
  
• Spark plugs/coils – unlikely to cause instant stall; usually presents as misfire or rough run.
  
  
• Throttle body – sticky throttle or dirty IAC could make idle unstable, but not a clean, repeatable stall.
  

➕ Pro Tip: Try Starting with Starter Fluid

• Quick test for fuel vs spark issue:
  
  • Remove air intake, spray starter fluid, crank.
    
    • If it keeps running longer, you have a fuel issue.
      
      
    • If it dies same way, likely spark/timing/ECM.
      

ECM Replacement – Should Be Last Resort
You're right: swapping ECMs is expensive and may require reprogramming or matching with immobilizer/keys. Only replace if you're 95% sure, and even then try a known-good one if possible.

Summary of Steps to Ask/Check:

1. Try starting with MAF unplugged
   
   
2. Check for immobilizer behavior
   
   
3. Test crankshaft position sensor
   
   
4. Verify fuel pressure during stall
   
   
5. Check ECM grounds/power integrity
   

 

I would have hoped that the shop diagnose the problem fully first and not just throw parts... although replacing the fuel pump and the problem still persists shows that might not have been the case...
With them pointing to the ECM as the next problem I wanted to gain enough info and possible things to look at (not just from me) that I could show them. It is an old truck now so I had thought a short or wiring issue is more likley than a bad ECM...
Great advice folks. Thanks lots!! I will keep you posted.

 

You really shouldn't have to be giving the shop pointers on diagnosing a vehicle beyond the relevant information like when it broke, what you were doing when it broke, history of repairs, etc...
If you as the owner of the vehicle have to help a legitimate shop diagnose said vehicle beyond giving them the information what I said above and answering any questions the tech may have regarding the issue it's time to start looking for a better shop.

I hate that it's like this but unfortunately it's like that in a sizeable percentage (if not the majority) of shops, dealerships, and vehicle owners, very little if any real diagnostics is done before parts are replaced. I see it all the time with stuff that comes into the shop I work at.
There's a number of factors behind it that I won't get into here but suffice to say it's a big problem in the auto repair industry.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2013-toyota-tacoma-crank-no-start.853956/#post-30490748
While you’re at it read through this thread and check that IB1 pin eight if it looks burnt at all, most likely, that’s your culprit, but another place that you should start

 

Certainly a good spot to check, not uncommon for that pin to get burnt. I would expect it to be a complete no start though instead of a start/stall.

 

True enough...Hind sight is 20/20...but the truck is there now, I don't have another vehicle and I need it back on the road ASAP. I was very disappointed to see them replace the pump without knowing for sure that it was the problem... not taking the truck there ever again... The shop I wanted to take it to and would for sure have figured it out, was to busy to even look at it right away...and options for good shops seem to be in short supply around here as they wouldn't give me an alternate recommendation to where else to take it.

I really appreciate the replies though... Even if I have to go to the shop and tell them what they should have checked in what order. I hope when I get there tomorrow morning the mechanic will have done his research and I won't need to...

 

Well, to keep this thread going...
Shop I took it to eventually got it running... for a bit... they never bothered to tell me what they did to get it running... or what they checked or didn't check.
They wouldn't even give me a straight answer to whether or not the fuel pump was the issue.

Anyway, same issue cropped up today again. Luckily, this time I was able to wiggle a couple of connections and keep it running for now.
I will check for the above codes with my cheap scan tool tomorrow and try and figure this out myself... Being a holiday for me, I have time to look into it... however, shops are closed so getting parts will have to wait...

 

OK.. Checked the codes and the only 2 codes was P0137 - O2 sensor (Bank 1 sensor 2) low voltage... and P0157 O2 sensor Bank2 sensor 2...same thing
On checking the manufacturer specific codes, the only fail was Bank2 Sensor 2... This didn't surprise me in a way as I have an exhaust leak between the engine and the muffler.
However, I was disappointed to find that when I erased the codes with the scan tool, the Start stall thing keeps happening again...
I can post the live data from the scan tool as I was trying to start the truck after I erased the codes...IDK if that will help...

Not sure where to go from here...

 

Have you checked Connector IB1 Pin 8 (Black/Red) yet?

 

I did... perfectly fine... no burning at all.

I should mention that Looking at the MAF sensor, I unplugged it and the truck started and stayed on. Plugging it in the engine stalled right away. I just tried it again and the truck stalls, but stays running a little longer with the MAF unplugged. Idle goes up and down a bit then stalls. Pretty consistently stalls right away with it plugged in.
Live data from the scan tool shows 10.28 g/s with RPM at 1532...11.6 @1020 and 0.68 @ 0 RPM
I wonder if the mechanic at the shop played around with it to get it started as the screws holding it in were a little loose on first inspection...

 

For the record... I finally got the truck running again myself.

This is what I found out and did...
Changed the MAF sensor with a new one and cleaned the throttle body... while taking things apart, checked the vacuum hoses more carefully and found a few to be cracked at the ends... couldn't find anything else so I replaced them with similar size fuel line hose. Put everything back together again and still not running...
Bypassed the fuel pump resistor and everything worked fine!! Which was strange because it wasn't that old a replacement for one that was bad before...and it had tested OK when in the shop a week or two ago.

Thanks a lot for all the great info and experience in this forum!! I have been coming here for a long time but never really needed to post because of all the help already here. I had solved a lot of issues through searching and reading lots... the sticky posts are a wealth of info too!! Again, thanks!!