Long Travel BS Thread

Ohhh okay yeah, I had called specifically about the ifs center section. I wonder if they are doing it or not then.

 

37’s shit all over 35’s in literally every single department. But they are significantly more work to make it happen. I have daily driven my truck in the summers for going on 5 years with 37’s and have had zero issues. It also gets abused fairly heavily. I personally wouldn’t ever consider going back to 35’s. Just build properly.

 

I got 38s on my truck. Honestly they were a pain in the ass to fit properly, but they look really good.

I have no supporting mods to go with this tire size so I'll just upgrade what breaks as time goes on.

I feel like 37s in like a ko2 or km3 would be the perfect size to daily and off-road.

 

Is there another thread for core support cracking and replacement?

Mine has a pretty significant crack below the driver's headlight and despite trying to drill it out and weld repair, it is still spreading. I'm weighing my options between replacing the entire piece, welding in a patch/section from rock auto, or going aftermarket with JD/others.

 

I'm in this same boat as well. Mine is nowhere near as bad as some, but it is under the driver's headlight as well.

Guessing in about a year I'll just go with the JD fenders/core and be done with it.

 

Curious to see the long term on the JD support. IMO, it’s just going to start pulling the firewall apart.

If you’re that guy breaking headlights, grills, core supports etc. It’s simply time for a cage. It is the only thing that is going to prevent self destruction.

 

Agree. A stronger robust core and fender support will pull the firewall apart from the cab. Need to separate the cab from the front clip. We can continue to band-aid these trucks and get years of abuse out of them.

 

Yes, probably a cage long term.

However, it has taken 11.5 years and 224k mi to get to this point - if I can replace the core support and get another 11 years then that seems more prudent. I don't push my truck as hard as many on here.

 

Appreciate the insight! I'm working on it today. I'll report back with how it goes. I have a lot of drop with these links; there is some serious weight transfer when I really get on the brakes. Curious if that makes enough difference to transition to the rears locking up first. i guess worst case, I swap the valve, or for how inexpensive they are, just get a second one.

 

I'm looking at this old build that Lsk and Est fab did. That engine cage looks solid.

I'm at the point where I just wanna build something where I don't have to worry about the weak core support/inner fenders breaking

 

My next core/radiator support will look something like this. But as @Naveronski said above it's taken 15 years for me to shred my 2nd support.

 

How do you guys prevent the plastic tabs on your headlights, grilles from breaking? That's the one thing that I'm struggling with.

 

Aluminum and pop rivet band aids. And zip ties.

 

My truck looked a little sad. Zip ties is what keeping my truck going haha

 

I wont lie. Tubbing scares me. I have a tundra rack in it and am regearing in a week. If I could fit 35s without a tub with what I currently have on now, Id go to 35s. Anyone done 35s here and not tubbed? asking for those without the JD pivot. I do plan on doing their pivot in the future.

 

What suspensions arms? I'm running TC 3.5" and I'm rubbing the cab with worn 35" tires. New 35" won't fit without serious rubbing.

 

JD Fab 4 inch long travel. How far forward does tc push the tires forward. I believe JD is .875 of an inch

 

I don't have that number.

 

I think most kits have the tire pushed forward a little bit to help with tire clearance. Some more than others.

 

Very true. Their website says "clears 33's" which mine did. I can say also, barely clears worn 35's.