Debating on Charging system upgrade for ~2000w stereo... thoughts

Currently upgrading my stereo. Already have most of this installed, but will be adding another 4 channel amp, additional DSP for front stage, and will end up with about a 2000 watt rms potential.

Thoughts on if I should upgrade Alternator and do big3, do a big 3 with stock alternator, or install and measure voltage drop/etc before going forward on charging system.

 

I would get it setup and see. Just because a speaker can handle a certain amount of power doesn't mean you will actually use that amount of power.

if you find yourself keeping the volume all the way up for hours on end, you'll probably need an upgraded alternator and big 3. You will probably also need a hearing aid shortly after for your destroyed eardrums.

if you listen to your music at a normal or even reasonably high volume during a commute or running errands, you'll probably be fine.

 

What I was thinking, the way it will be tuned it will definitely not be at 2000 watts. I also don't and won't run it super hot for long, tinnitus isn't fun. Goal is SQL

 

i agree-- just the same as a motor. just because a motor is rated to 2,000 horsepower, using it in everyday conditions, one might only really use 50-200 hp of it, which in wattage, is well within the realm of the stock alternator. you'll definitely find that your tweeters consume almost no power once fully dialed in to their appropriate frequency range, comparatively to the amps capabilities. the main power eaters are lower frequencies. the solobarics, and epiques especially, with the flax midbasses falling at the very upper end to the point that amp might not even break a sweat. given the epiques range, you might even end up crossing the flax series in closer to 300hz, which would almost entirely keep them from sucking any major power.

with the diagram you have, be sure that you add an additional battery ground at least the size of the power cable you're adding, to ensure a consistent power path too and from the battery.

also, speakers like the 'toolbox' speakers are likely to not be used all the time, which will further de-rate the system from it's 'max rms' potential.



and the rest is me being nitpicky/curious

and i'm really curious about the future details on your speaker pods using the combo of the flax series with the epique drivers. from the measurements i have, they won't fit in the stock doors, and of course, a dual 7" setup won't fit at all, which is always part of my goal-- to make a semi-stock looking system. they are an extremely interesting speaker at the very least.

i also am curious on the multi-amp part of the prv amp. i find it different you're using a 4-channel amp for a space that two 2-channel amps might make better sense from both a power and switching capability. but i think i understand, if my assumptions are right. i've been tinkering/thinking with my own rear-door coaxial speaker setup simply because i have a spare 4-channel laying around that would be fun to revive, and i like the idea of 'party speakers'.

that said, if i'm envisioning your use for the 'toolbox' speakers, i think there's a few different ways about it that might be a little more elegant overall:

the sub channel out of the helix, you don't need a stereo rca cable. you can combine the stereo channel in the helix to a mono-summed output, which frees up a channel on the helix.

with a freed up mono output on the helix, you can run a mono-summed output from that to a splitter to both toolbox speakers amp inputs, because in party mode, stereo clarity/separation isn't as critical as fundamental output level. it would also give you an app control on the output-- you could then easily toggle the output on/off for when it's needed within the helix's software-- a two 2-channel amp would have the same functionality in this case (using one remote wire to toggle the amp on/off), but i can respect the possibility of using on-hand gear that works.

if you were to do that, something i'd recommend then is to only use the high level inputs of the helix, and abandon the dq-61 entirely. there's really nothing the helix can't do that the dq-61 does better.

normally, i'd also suggest running all 4 channels from the head unit to the dsp as well, but these radios are different in that the rear channel signals are pre-neutered a lot, which gives a mixed reaction to usage. technically, i believe the rear signals are only neutered on the lower end spectrum, with most high frequency information, so it'd be possible to route the rear signals in to be used for both your tweeters and the tool box speakers, to simplify and narrow your helix's usable eq bands. personally, in a 2-way full active, i prefer keeping my tweeters and midbasses on different fade channels to allow me to quickly mix the interaction level between the drivers at the easily-accessible head unit menu. depending on the song material, some prefer a raised midbass, with others preferring a strong treble presence.

 

Soundman98, thank you that gives me some new ideas for the install. Will for sure add the additional grounding wire.

The tool box speakers will be in the bed and definitely will only run in 'party mode'. The Helix is a dsp.2 so I have 8 channels. I may still ditch the dq-61 altogether as you mentioned. I am new to Helix and have some learning to do on its capabilities which are immense.

the HU is also factory may be worth mentioning, but have high level inputs on the Helix. The only channels the dq-61 would supply are a sort of line driver for the fronts (I know it's likely unnecessary) and then the rears to the tool box set. I also have a audiocontrol lc2i laying around, may run high levels to helix hook up rears to lc2i for the tool box speakers only for easy switching on and off.

Speakers will be mounted in some custom speaker pods brand dual 6.5s, and I will reinforce and deaden. I also previously liked the stock look in general on vehicles, stealthiness if you will, but decided to try something different. The subs are totally hidden, and the pods will be the only bit of flair. I was able to get a pretty good finish option and grills to blend in with the factory appearance. It is also basically a stock truck other than stereo.

Thanks for the inspiration, definitely will help my install and gives me more to research.

 

Oh, and the focal component set with the additional Epique 7 is a bit of an experiment/calculated risk. Going to essentially have a 3 way midbass, midrange, and tweeter. It will be interesting to tune but I like to tinker and the epiques I will use in another project if they are not matching up at all. I know it is all unconventional but its a fun hobby

 

i love weird setups. i get so tired of everyone claiming that audio can only be done a few very specific ways. i'm looking forward to hearing how the whole thing works out for you, and hopefully the epiques work out as well!



it's going to throw a bit of a screwball in the plan, but today i just saw kicker finally is offering a key lineout converter, which is something i wish they had come out with a long time ago.
https://www.kicker.com/keyloc-smart-line-out-converter

the biggest issue with the factory head unit as a source is the volume-variable eq. but the key dsp has the potential to take care of that and get you an 'aftermarket' flat output, which would make the factory-integrated head unit just as good as any aftermarket option for less than $200! i had considered recommending the jl FIx86 which does the same thing, but it's somewhat prohibitively expensive for what it does-- it does it well, i just can't justify recommending $500 for an auto-eq... but $130 for the kicker version to do the same thing, that's a lot more feasible...

another option for your party speakers, look into using standard automotive 'bosch' relays. they're not officially 'audio grade', and snobs will turn up their noses at it, but if you take apart any of the 'automatic' audio switchers that we've all played with in home stereo stores, they're close enough to work just fine. SPST versions will work for just simple on/off of an amps outputs. DPDT versions can be used to flip flop between two different sets of speakers.

 

I will look into that kicker DSP. So from what I understand, the Helix dsp.2 will still be better off beginning with a flat output from the Kicker DSP?

I was under the impression that the Helix being a 30 band EQ would be able to modify or correct the signal enough, but then again I am new to the device and software.