LCA BUSHINGS

Can anyone tell me the difference between the forward and rearward lca bushings? I'm looking at both brand new and they look identical.

 

They are

 

Then why different part numbers? And a few cents difference in the price.

 

Don't know, I've only ever bought aftermarket and polyurethane kits which are not labeled because they're identical
Maybe different on a 5 lug model? Not sure what you have

 

I swear ordering OEM parts,.,... they're friggin retarded!

 

6 lug 4wd.

 

Eh, give it 15 mins for TW to say I'm wrong and there's a 2.1 degree difference on the taper before ordering, idk

 

80 bucks apiece! I've been stripped of my non existing wealth!

 

Do yourself a HUGE favor. Replace the complete LCA with new bushings. Getting those bushings out is a bitch and no guarantee the new ones will fit snuggly.

 

I've already ordered everything under the front end. Including rack. Excluding coilovers, (those are next). I've got a good shop lined up to install everything for me. I bought new cams and bolts in case they have to be cut. Nothing looks bad at all underneath. No rust whatsoever. But I'm too old to crawl around under these trucks so had to hire someone.

 

I do kinda wish I had just bought the lca assemblies. But this is my first go around and it's been a learning experience.

 

I learned the hard way also. Spent 6 hrs getting the bushing out. I ended up cutting out the outer sleeve the bushing with a hacksaw.

 

Brother, I understand you on that situation 100%. When it comes time for my front end rebuild, I'm going to try and find me a local TW member or two and throw myself on their mercy for help. Of course I'll buy them food, and beer, and other beverages as needed. There is no way I can do this anymore without serious help.

 

Old bones!

 

As long as the truck is not from the rust belt, there should be any issue. I’d done well over a dozen and most are trouble free while one or two require heat to get it going. As for the install, snugged fit. But like I said, location makes a difference.

 

My truck was bought originally in California. then went to Az. Then Tn and now Ms. Guess I'm lucky has no rust at all. But thinking I should maybe start soaking nuts n bolts with penetrating oil before it goes to the shop next week? Would probably make their job easier. And faster! Just in case, I ordered new cams n bolts though.

 

You can but if there’s no rust, it’s not necessary. If you got penetrating oil, great. If not, ATF or ATF & acetone mixture works well too. Pour it into a spray bottle and spray it around everything that will be remove.

 

Never tried that mixture. I've got half a dozen cans of tech grade knock er loose. It's always done good for me. I'll have to try that trans fluid w acetone sometime tho. Thinking about it, sounds like it would be a good mixture. Thanks Hilux!

 

ATF provides the lubricant while the acetone penetrate rust. Both are commonly found if you’re a DIY mechanic. I don’t bother buying penetrating oil.

 

Yea I have access to acetone and plenty of other solvents here at work. We blast n paint structural columns and beams. I'm mostly maintenance. Rebuild about anything that breaks.