What's with the 3rd gen Tacoma V6 needing spark plug replacement at 60k?

My 2020 has 87k on it. No missing or skipping or reduced gas mileage yet. I'm waiting until 100k.

 

Re: Fakes?: Buy them from a dealer. Some dealers sell them through Ebay and the like. I purchase them from a local dealer near me for around $6.00 each, and the last time with free shipping or free pickup at their parts counter. Check several dealers for the best price as it varies among them. 60,000 is a good guideline for replacing them. (you don't need to buy new coils) I like being able to inspect them at that interval. Leaving them in for 100,000+ or more risks seized threads. (IMO)

https://autoparts.toyota.com/

 

^ True!

FWIW: My '66 Mustang called for Oil/Filter, Points and condenser, carb adjustment, clean PCV, adjust fan belt, plus plugs every 6k

Now my souped up '68 Charger w/ a 440; that thing could foul a set of plugs with just a few instances of stepping on it before it was warmed all the way up. Best case scenario, they had to be changed every ~3-5k or so (Of course in the 90's those Autolights were only ~$3-4 each)

 

Changed plugs in a 69 RA IV Judge every week. Running 2 steps colder though, and every Friday night drags.

 

This is not correct. There are 2 different ABS modules on the 3rd gen. One requires vacuum from the vacuum pump (SR/SR5/Sport) the other (OR/PRO) doesn't require the vacuum pump.

 

Where did you get that info? I don't believe it at all. The spark plugs are simple copper core plugs that become less effective after 60k miles because the electrode starts burning down, creating a larger gap. A larger gap takes more current to fire, which will shorten the life of your coils.

Some reference reading: https://oards.com/types-spark-plugs/

 

Which part of what I said was not correct? Previous naturally aspirated Toyota engines like the 1GR-FE in the 2nd gen Tacoma didn't have a vacuum pump; the intake manifold vacuum alone was sufficient to power the brakes on SR5/TRD Sport models. Also, you need to read my post in context. I was replying to TacoSupremo19, who has a TRD Sport.

 

Manifold vacuum is all the OR and Pro models get, and work fine. So, the 2GR creates enough intake vacuum. It's the ABS module in the other trims that need boosted vacuum. There are two systems in the 3rd gen.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/18-trd-vacuum-pump-vs-non-vac-pump-motors.759101/ See post #4.

 

To expand on this: A normally aspirated 10.2/1 CR isn't going to create terribly high cylinder pressure. I've raced engines with CRs around 14/1 with copper core plugs and never had a plug failure.

 

Wrong. Look at your intake manifold. The vacuum port that would connect to the booster on SR5/Sport models is capped off on OR/Pro. The OR/Pro's braking power comes from the electric motor only; it doesn't rely on manifold vacuum at all. Educate yourself on your truck before misinforming others.

 

I misread the post I referred to and didn't think through what I typed. I do know this because I do know the OR doesn't have a vacuum booster, it works with the hydraulic ABS module. Where's that crow...

 

Do it ASAP! 3 of my 6 were LOOSE, not snug, not hand tight. LOOSE! As in out the socket with extension into the plug hole and was able to feel the spark shimming. Thank god I did it at 50k otherwise I fear I’d have part of a plug bouncing in my combustion chamber.

 

I was actually watching, I think car care nut may have talked about it. If you’re a low mileage driver, that would be me, and you don’t hit 60k at about 5 years, either do it anyway or at a minimum break them loose and retorque them..accomplishes obviously making sure they are tight like they’re supposed to but also ensures they’re not seized in there when you do change them down the road. I just changed since I had a wrench on them anyway, but indeed 2 were noticeably looser than the others

 

First off, the maintenance schedule has nothing to do with 'failed' plugs. Toyota's concern is driveability, fuel efficiency and emissions. The electrodes wear faster on any DI engine - that is a fact - look it up. The 2GR-FKS is not a 60's high compression engine and you cannot make that comparison. It runs much leaner with up to 14.2:1 compression, as determined and allowed by the ECU. Those conditions reduce the life of the plug electrode.

 

The concepts haven't changed. Compression is compression. A/F ratios are still A/F ratios. Doesn't matter if it's carbureted or some kind of FI. The factory claims 10.2:1 compression ratio. As a naturally aspirated engine, there is no way that's going to significantly change, either through valve timing or the flapper valve. There is only so much air that can pass the valves without being forced.

Burned electrodes are 'failed' plugs, whether they're misfiring yet or not. Burned electrodes won't fire as cleanly, affecting the burn of the fuel mixture. Improperly burned fuel affects emissions and fuel efficiency. Electric sparking is what burns electrodes.

Yes, the maintenance schedule has a lot to do with this. Toyota knows this. That is why they specify 60k spark plug life. They are the ones building the engines to pass emissions tests over a wide lifetime. They are the ones that spend hundreds of hours on the dyno testing any and all variables the engine is going to face.

edit: '60s Detroit didn't really care about cylinder efficiency. They knew the concepts, but didn't have to worry about it. Today, manufacturers have to pay attention to every last detail, including oil pressure and viscosity, to get maximum efficiency.