Truck will not start after dead battery/jump

Help!!! Got a 2018 tacoma. Truck would not crank this morning. My buddy jumped it off and the horn started going off. Got a new battery and truck will not read the key. Have to start it with the key fob next to the button. After start up I have no functions in the truck. No windows, radio, ac. Truck will not shift into gear. Check engine light, abs light, traction, all the damn lights are on light a Christmas tree. Getting messages also about check abs system, check vehicle stability system, check brake system, lane departure malfunction alert see dealer, pre collision malfunction, brake override malfunction. Checked fuses and relay. Brake lights are coming on when pressing the brake. I'm baffled

 

Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight. Might be an alternator issue.

 

Horn going off means it was backwards boosted, a main line fuse has burnt and requires a technician to replace.

it’s not a typical diy fuse. It’s bolted inside the junction box

 

He didn't accidentally reverse polarity jump start it did he?


Since you can't shift out of park let's start with that since it's the simplest, you have 3 fuses to check there. We know the STOP Fuse is good since the brake lights work but you need to check the ECU-IG No1 Fuse (7.5A) and SFT LOCK-ACC Fuse (5A) in the interior fuse box.

 

EDIT: well done changing the title brother.

Change the tittle to starting issues or whatever. HELP!!! And stuff like that is reserved for stranded folks in the middle of nowhere. Cheers

 

Agree on the string title - you will end up frustrated.
As for the issue, I am not a technician but I have heard and read that unless you get your connectors back on quickly with a clean connection when changing the battery you can mess up the PCM. Sounds like this might be the issue. If so you need to have your PCM reset. Perhaps someone on this thread knows more and how to go about resetting PCM. Hope this helps.

 

Oh the advantages of modern timesaving technology!!
What I have learned from TW is that one should not mess with ANYTHING electrical.

 

? ? Changing the battery can mess up the PCM? Resetting the ECU or PCM is done by -disconnecting- the battery, so putting in a new battery would have reset things. (Google it.)

Just to be sure, disconnect the new battery, wait 15-20 minutes, and re-connect.

If things are still messed up, it may have been something from the jump start. Start checking fuses as the others advised.

 

If indeed the jumpstart was connected backwards who knows what you burned out. Don’t want to scare you but I had a friend do this once on an older car and it blew everything on that car I’m talking every single bulb all fuses hell it even blew out the radio. Hopefully like @Bishop84 has mentioned it only blew a main line fuse.

 

Saw someone hookup cables backwards once. The plastic sheathing fell off, so quick, and immediately the bare cables started dropping through anything plastic they were laying on. Pretty sure both batteries were toasted, and one of those vehicles has those “gremlin” problems.

 

I will be the punching bag for the others who help by me not helping right at this moment. For the future buy a

$100 NOCO GB40 1000A UltraSafe Car Battery Jump Starter, 12V Jump Starter Battery Pack, Battery Booster, Jump Box, Portable Charger and Jumper Cables for 6.0L Gasoline and 3.0L Diesel Engines

NOCO GB40 to boost your truck by yourself wherever you are with just the boost-block. Also it has far fewer reports of shorting out the truck being brought back to life.

 

That noco fried my steering angle sensor, had to replace the clock spring. Not a cheap part but cheaper doing it yourself. I took the noco out after that

 

we see steering angle sensors die from repeated boosts, not just noco units. It sucks

 

When you say repeated boosts do you mean multiple attempts to jump or multiple incidents from different customers? So not just noco all types of those jump pack styles potentially or both jump packs and jumper cables w/ donor vehicles?

the only thing I could come up with was as it was jumped with that noco if there was a voltage spike or something like that and that was the ultimate cause

 

I doubt it's any fault of the jump pack, modern vehicle electronics don't take kindly to voltage drops and/or spikes which tend to happen with a weak/dead battery and/or jumpstart. Best case everything is fine or you just set a bunch of codes that have to be cleared, worst case you fry one or more modules.

I don't even unhook the battery on some of this new stuff without reading service info because you don't know what might brick or need to be relearned after if you don't follow it.

 

I understand we have more and more electronics in vehicles as each yr passes. If we have the possibility of frying something just by jump starting that is a problem- and like I said in my case it was the noco, so now it’s dead to me. That thought will only disappear if I have to jump w/ a donor and cables and I get the same effects.

I’ll also wait until bishop84 expands on his post because it sounds like he sees it quite often with jump packs. I know what he does so his voice holds a bit more weight

I have never had issues or worries unhooking a battery to install something and hooking it back up other than the 1 annoyance of the beatsonic front cam glitching and loses both front and rear video- have to do the sequence of direct radio to rear than I can add the beatsonic module and add front and rear. I say it everytime messing w/ batteries … black is 1st (off), and black is last (on)