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Non-JBL speaker / audio upgrades

Discussion in '4th Gen. Tacomas (2024+)' started by BearWithMe, May 5, 2025.

  1. May 5, 2025 at 12:08 PM
    #1
    BearWithMe

    BearWithMe [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There doesn't seem to be a non-JBL audio thread going for this topic, so let's start one. Linking the JBL thread for reference: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4th-gen-jbl-replacement.830793/

    To start down this path, I'd like to upgrade the front dash speakers which are 3.5" units.

    These speakers are closest to ear level and reproduce midrange frequencies which humans are best at perceiving, so these are the biggest bang for your buck in terms of improving clarity.

    I pulled one of them off the dash with a panel pry tool and 10mm socket and wrench (clearance to the windshield is tight). Very easy. I discovered the speaker has a 4-pin socket because it has two wires coming in from the headunit (positive, negative) and two going out which continue on to feed the front door speaker. The stock 3.5" midrange has a small capacitor wired into it. I think the label reads 70uF, I'd have to pry it out of the glue to be sure.

    Is this wired up as a high-pass filter (e.g. allowing only high frequencies to reach the 3.5") or a low-pass filter (e.g. blocking high frequencies from reaching the door speaker so that it only has to deal with low frequencies)?
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2025
  2. May 5, 2025 at 1:52 PM
    #2
    slater

    slater Well-Known Member

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    I dont have the answer but if filtered, think its being done through the amp, doesnt have inline capacitor style crossover "choke"...
     
  3. May 5, 2025 at 4:30 PM
    #3
    tonymac

    tonymac Well-Known Member

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    I believe it is a high-pass filter, filtering out low frequency. I replaced mine with a 4" Polk speaker, without any filters.
     
  4. May 5, 2025 at 4:35 PM
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    TurboDA6

    TurboDA6 Well-Known Member

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    You sure it's not going to a tweeter?
    That's how many OEM speaker setups are, use a cap on the mid that feeds back to a tweeter
     
  5. May 5, 2025 at 7:25 PM
    #5
    BearWithMe

    BearWithMe [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There's no dedicated tweeter in the base audio system: 3.5" in dash, 7" in front door, and 6.5" in rear door. All are single-driver speakers, no coaxial tweeters etc.

    I will do some more research, but right now my theory is it's a low-pass filter, sending only low frequencies to the speaker in the front door (with the 3.5" outputting a full-range signal). That's how Toyota wires their JBL systems in some of their vehicles based on personal observation.
     
  6. May 5, 2025 at 10:32 PM
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    22TCLB

    22TCLB Well-Known Member

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    Dose anybody know if the tweeter up grade done to the 3rd gen will work on the 4th gen ?
     
  7. May 5, 2025 at 11:38 PM
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    Santytacoma

    Santytacoma Well-Known Member

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    You’ll be better off adding 4 inch speaker coaxial will give you a nice fill over the dashboard
    This the Audison prima I used

    IMG_9306.jpg
     
  8. May 6, 2025 at 6:25 AM
    #8
    TurboDA6

    TurboDA6 Well-Known Member

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    A single capacitor is a 6dB high pass filter. It could also be it is intended to go to a tweeter, but your trim of truck doesn't have the tweeter
     
  9. May 6, 2025 at 9:00 PM
    #9
    BearWithMe

    BearWithMe [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I pulled out the speaker on the other side to get a better look at the label on the capacitor: it's 10uF, not 70uF. I measured the DC ohms of the 3.5" at around 6.4 ohms, which I estimate would be about 7.3 ohms in AC resistance (audio is AC). Maybe 8 ohms nominal.

    A crossover calculator like this one suggests that this combination would create a high-pass filter of about 2200hz, which is plausible if Toyota was trying to prevent the 3.5" from getting low frequencies it can't handle.

    From what I can tell, the front door speaker and dash speaker is wired in parallel so the ohms presented to the headunit is 8+8 = 4 ohms using Ohm's law. Replacing the dash midrange with a 4 ohm unit would bring it down to 2.67 ohms which is probably risky for the headunit. The midrange would also output much louder than designed for a given input relative to the door speaker.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2025
  10. May 6, 2025 at 9:45 PM
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    Santytacoma

    Santytacoma Well-Known Member

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    Ive only seen like 3.5 inch middler that takes care of all high frequencies, when I added the 4 inch coaxial speakers I had no issues
    I would not add just a tweeter though, and I didn’t seem to need any kind of filter either
     
  11. May 7, 2025 at 9:25 AM
    #11
    Deeber

    Deeber Member

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    Posted this in the JBL thread, figured I'd cross post it.

    Installed morel maximo ultra 603s and needed a bracket for the mid drivers in the dash.

    Here's the link to the file if anyone needs it. Happy to print and mail if needed.

    PXL_20250507_012419980.jpg
     
  12. May 7, 2025 at 10:20 AM
    #12
    janvit

    janvit New Member

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    This is an interesting point.

    So can the dash and door speakers not be replaced without adding an amp? If the dash speaker becomes 4 ohms and door speaker becomes 4 ohms, then it would be 2 ohms at the headunit. I suspect that would be an issue.

    Hmm. Maybe amp and speakers need to be done together?
     
  13. May 7, 2025 at 12:29 PM
    #13
    Deeber

    Deeber Member

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    Does this help sort out the series vs parallel?

    Also there were molex adapters in between the door and the cab. I was not able to run speaker wire through the doors. Had to cut and splice into the factory wiring behind the kick panel.

    Screenshot_20250507-120937.png
     
  14. May 7, 2025 at 2:08 PM
    #14
    BearWithMe

    BearWithMe [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I can't read that diagram at that zoom level, it's too tiny. Can you share where you got that page? I'm 99% certain the non-JBL has the midrange and front door speakers wired in parallel. I ordered a midrange harness today from a certain Tacorito "tunes" shop so I can play around with it without cutting up my stock midrange speakers.

    I think the simplest solution would be to replace the midrange with another 8-ohm unit. They're not very common on the market, but Dayton makes about a half dozen different models. I might go with this one: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-RS100-8-4-Reference-Full-Range-Driver-295-352?quantity=1
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2025
  15. May 7, 2025 at 3:24 PM
    #15
    Taco Ji

    Taco Ji Well-Known Member

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    Even the upgraded JBL audio system in the Tacoma sucks. It sounds like a standard base system to me.
     
    Vidman likes this.
  16. May 8, 2025 at 6:12 AM
    #16
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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    https://techinfo.toyota.com/ is best (paying) source.

    upload_2025-5-8_9-11-59.pngupload_2025-5-8_9-13-13.png
     
  17. May 8, 2025 at 6:15 AM
    #17
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Well-Known Member

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