As requested frame photos

This was a New York truck. I got Eastwood Rust encapsulator to start picking away at it. I’ll also NHOil undercoat once I’ve picked at the rust. Also Mainline Overland is getting ready to put Dobinsin suspension on it. I’ve also ordered a Project M Camper from them that will be here late June.

 

What does it look like where the fame has laminated sections (up front) and next to the catalytic converters?

 

Hey good looking out. I am new to this platform. You put me right to it. How bad is it?

 

Second (inside) layer felt solid, but it is pouring rain out right now. I’ll really get a thorough look at it tomorrow.

 

Drivers side doesn't look great.

For reference, I had this little spot bubbling up, didn't think it was a big deal initially:



2 years later when we finally patched it this is how big a piece we had to cut out:

 

Did you do anything preventative? Also thanks for the info.

 

I never did anything preventative on my frame before or after. For that spot, I initially ground the paint off in an effort to see how bad it was, and then painted back over it when I determined it could wait awhile.

 

If that was my truck I would use a wire wheel on a drill, hand wire brush to get at that rust. I would then use Ospho rust neutralizer , Eastwood chassis primer,Eastwood black paint and then followed up with Amsoil heavy duty metal protector or Wool wax.I like Eastwood internal frame protector comes with a 360 degree wand for the internal frame. If you plan on keeping it you got to do the prep work . This is my frame maintenance routine. USN adage ( 7P) Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor performance . G.L.

 

After doing a lot of testing here in Salt Hell, I have found that HDMP does not do well in areas exposed directly to road spray.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/amsoil-hdmp-vs-woolwax-controlled-testing.829867/

I find it's great for inside of body panels/tailgate, and non-exposed areas subject to dripping or indirect exposure, but it is not a good choice for exposed components.

 

A better USN adage for this scenario, 1 coat for dust, 2 coats for rust. So he just needs to put 2 coats of paint on and he'll be good.

 

Great info. So far my plan is to knock down rust, then hit it with Eastwood rust encapsulator. After my suspension gets done I’ll have it undercoated with NHOU. If the infamous spot near catalytic converter gets any worse I’ll have it welded and reinforced.

 

https://www.autorust.com/safe-t-cap-kits/

Excellent solution for the front sections, good fitment.

 

I found a guy locally that installs safe-t-caps. If and when it comes to that I will be using him. Has anyone seen any structural damage or failures from the spot near cats? Or is it something to stop from spreading then no problems? If not attended to will it bite me in the ass in a couple years?

 

Take care of it now or your truck will be a statistic. Find a rust converter you like and follow the directions then pick a coating and woolwax it every year.

 

Hi odds of that.

They rust from the inside out. What you see is not totally representative of how bad it may be.

Look at the edges of the C part of the frame. Do you see de-lamination of layers, like a flaky biscuit?

 

No flaky biscuit yet. It’s getting encapsulator now and will get NHOU as soon as suspension is done.

 

Before putting in the saf-t-caps, get after the rust with a wire wheel and burr and make sure you get all of the rotten metal out. You may also want to clean out the insides of the box (there will be a lot of dirt and rust flakes that will hold moisture). I like a chain flail for this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykaW5Hzm4a8

After you knock out the rust and vacuum out all the shit, generously apply woolwax or similar inside with a 360 wand.

 

^^ LOL, great attempt ! But this guy doesn’t understand his drill and chain method never reaches the 90 degree bends in the frame.

 

It isn't perfect but it's better than nothing - no way to get them fully cleaned inside except with a frame dip or an extremely large amount of tedious labor with 1" steel brushes. You can use a chimney sweep, but it's hard to find one big enough and even then doesn't get the corners.

The point isn't to get it sparkling - the point is to knock loose the big crud (I've had pieces the size of saltine crackers come out of Taco frames) that will make pockets for the rust to keep growing in, or shake loose and leave a huge gap in the coating.

 

you don’t have to get them clean or remove all the rust , you need to saturate all areas with corrosion protection. By doing that your cutting off the ability of oxygen to feed and promote the corrosion process.