4th gen Oil Change

Just changed oil at 4300.....oil still looked great.

 

I'm changing the oil on my Sport. When I removed the oil bolt the area around the threads is raised, almost like the washer is glued to the oil pan. I hit it a few times with a screwdriver and it wouldn't budge. So my question........is the area around the oil pan threads supposed to be raised or is it smooth? As I said, I don't know if the washer is stuck to the pan, or there is supposed to be a raised area and they just didn't put a washer on at the factory, because there was none with the bolt when I removed it.

 

Any one have a preference on oil filters?

 

use something softer than the pan. you don't want to gouge that area under the washer. Try something wood or plastic and hit it harder directly from the side.

 

OEM only and always

 

That raised circular area is the drain plug gasket. It is stuck very tight. I couldn’t get anything under the outer edge to remove it, even my fingernails. It came off easily tho when I pried it from the hole’s edge.

 

There's so much debate on this, but I'll bite...

The OEM filter will work fine and you can pick up one at Wal-Mart for $7. Some people will downright fight you for not using the OEM filter, but honestly aren't that spectacular. You could get into the whole flow vs filtration rate and go into some long drawn out discussion. I rotate between Baldwin/Hastings, WIX, or Hengst filters personally depending on warehouse locations on Rock Auto when I get low. Our Camry takes the same filter so it makes it nice to stock filters in my garage. Currently have some Wix 51394 in my stash. Will use one on my next 6mo oil change coming up in the Fall since that one is in between the free Toyota ones.

 

Question - does the larger filter impact the quantity of oil? It looks like it might simply bump up to a full 6 qts. (Guessing).

 

Those tiny filters are just begging for aftermarket mfgrs. to start making longer ones. More surface area will always filter and flow better IMO

 

Used to work in fuels and oils etc etc...

Firstly - When new (up to 50k) I would always stick to the grade on the oil cap.
Secondly - The car companies are obsessed with manipulating MPG figures and 0w20, 0w16 etc does that. There is no secret that these lighter grades give increased mileage but at an ever, ever so slight wear cost.
Third - The new engines require a harder working, higher quality oil, that often leans towards a lower viscosity, for VVT and VVI etc
Fourth - Consider your operating climate / conditions.

The Standard to meet warranty in the Tacoma 2.7 4 is ILSAC GF-6A. As well as Mobil 1 0w20, that is found in the Mobil 1 0w30 Advanced Fuel Economy for example... (why use any other brand - just saying).
ILSAC GF-6A is NOT found in the Mobil 1 0w30 ESP also Mobil 1. High quality oil specifications will cross over between grades.
Also the owners manual uses the wording 'recommends' not 'must do'
In hot environments and high speed and high workload I would recommend going up a viscosity level. 0w30 meets those requirements for warranty and added protection in heat and high workload.
0w30 is generally considered to be used where ambient air temperature is 36c / 97f. So if you live in these climates then why not give yourself the protection ?

In Summary Mobil 1 0w20 and 0w30 Advanced Fuel Economy (Any probably other brands you can research) have the required ILSAC GF-6A which is the only engine oil specification requirement mentioned in the Toyota manual.
Therefore being May in the South, currently using Mobil 1 0w30 AFE in my Tacoma 2.7 , If I lived further North (and in Winter) I would put 0w20 in.

Hope that helps.

 

I'm having a hard time finding any actual specs on the Toyota filters, but I was able to find some specs on the FRAM equivalents. FRAM's "Ultra Synthetic" equivalent for the N1 filter is the XG4967, where the F1's equivalent is the XG4386.

Besides the physical size difference, they are very similar. The only functional difference they list is the bypass valve: the 4967 opens at 12PSI where the 4386 opens at 14PSI. I don't know if that makes any difference. I peeked at some of the other filters they list as equivalents and they're all fairly consistent. That is, the F1 equivalents were all 12PSI and the N1 equivalents were all 14PSI. There were a couple of oddballs; the FE4967 ("Synthetic Endurance, maybe the "top shelf" one?) opens at "9-15PSI" and the PH4967 ("Extra Guard", the cheap ones usually regarded by testers as crap you don't want on your engine anyway) opens at 12PSI. I really wish I knew what the heck "9-15PSI" meant...

So, what I've learned here is...nothing. That said, more info is better. So they say. I'm not sure I understand the implications enough to work out a practical difference.

Either way, I wouldn't put a FRAM filter on my truck anyway; I'm a Purolator, MANN, and Tokyo Roki guy, mostly. The guy at the Toyota dealership parts counter handed me an N1, so I'm going to use that.

 

Just did an oil change and add a fumoto oil drain doohiki, as you can see, I did some research on filters and such, got 2 set of 10qt oil from costco $30 per 10qt, 10 oil filters from Amazon for, $36, fumoto drain valve for quick nonmessy oil change for 45 on amazon. Just did my 1003 mile break in oil change and did the switch drain plug to fumoto today. For thos 5'7 or shorter, you may need something to stand on while you filing your oil lol Planning to do oil change every 4-5k miles from now on. Hardest part is that protective shield that you have to take off, putting it back is hardest part, didn't have to lift the truck, I even got underneath with a creeper and still be able to do whole process.





filter on left is oem, on the right is earlier version also has the part number of the oem current filter, original slightly taller just round holes instead of the slanted elongated hole of the new one.




gotta do a diy bench later,

 

by the way, don't throw away your old 1qt mobile one bottle cut it off like above pic, and it'll screw in your oil filter hole snuggly fit for funnel, no need to buy any silly funnel.

 

I have a bunch of 0w40 Euro M1 left over from a previous vehicle that also had a turbo 4cyl.

Thinking about running it in the Taco on next oil change, which is coming up very soon.

Says right on the back it’s good for turbos

 

I have those as well, but would use whats recommended by Toyota

 

I'd run the 0W-40 in the summer and 0W-20 in the winter.

 

That’s the plan

 

( That bigger filter looks like it has smaller holes the the OEM,s oval ones. You might want calculate the open area of each filter and make sure that bigger one is at least the same or more than the OEM. If it’s less I would question using it )

 

1700 miles on my 2025 after 2 months had it's 1st Mobile 1 oil and filter change yesterday. Now if I can find it under all the pollen I might be able to drive it today.

 

The engine clatters so much (especially when at operating temp) I did this too (used Mobil AFE 0w30). It helps a lot.

The 0wXX works in low temps, regardless of the other number. The viscosity increases with temperature.