2022 Limited, litany of issues

Hey everyone,

As the title says, truck in question is a 2022 model Limited, 80k on the odo. Was idling very rough and whatnot. Took to dealer, assumed it was fuel pump, as it was on my previous (2016 model) when it was acting this same way. They blew me away with what they recommended. They said after diagnostic, it needed a fuel pump, all the port injectors, all the direct injectors, all the coil packs, all the spark plugs. And of course, obviously, it needed a cabin and engine air filter (had just done them the week prior). They wanted right at 10k for the repairs and that just ain't happening.

The truck has lived all its life on dirt roads, but so have all the trucks we've ever owned. There's an air filter for the fuel tank on these trucks just like the 2nd gens, it wraps around the filler neck - it has been replaced twice, but needed it a third time and got it.

I bought an OEM fuel pump for half of what they wanted and installed it. It ran like a scalded dog for about the duration of one tank of fuel, now back to the same issues. It runs great going down the road and it idles fine 60-70% of the time. But when it acts up, it doesn't idle right and runs rough at 0-10mph. Once you're going, it runs fine.

Have an Amazon OBDII scanner, pulled the codes and watched the fuel system pressure. The low pressure never fluctuates. The high pressure stays around 355-400 when idling and does go up if you get on the throttle but I figure that is normal. Fluctuates a bit when it misses.

On-board monitoring test from the scanner says
Fuel system Monitor Bank 1:#81 FAIL ->
TID: #8D Test
1.19
-32.77-1.00
Fail
Fuel system Monitor Bank 2:#82 FAIL ->
TID: #92 Test
1.56
-32.77-1.00
Fail
All the others are OK


The codes it is throwing are as follows (a long list, I know)

P0175 System too rich, bank 2

P0300 Random / multiple cylinder misfire

00,0c
11,7b
P117B Refer to manual

P301 Cylinder 1 misfire

P306 Cylinder 6 misfire

P21A1 Cylinder 6 Air-fuel ratio imbalance

P219B Bank 2 Air-fuel ratio imbalance

P219C Cylinder 1 Air-fuel ratio imbalance

00,0c
11f1
P11F1 Refer to manual

P219A Bank 1 Air-fuel ratio imbalance

P305 Cylinder 5 misfire

00,0c
11,ec
P11ec Refer to manual

00,0c
11,eb
P11eb Refer to manual

After the way the dealership has treated us in the past I'm really hesitant to listen to anything they say, and the local mechanic scene is sketchy at best. I can turn my own wrenches, but figuring out the diagnosis before throwing a bunch of parts at it is the trick as always. If anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Rodents chew on your wiring harness?

 

Rodents are a possibility but not the most likely, the cats here are good hunters, but that is a distinct possibility nonetheless. I will take a good look

 

They like to get deep under the intake, in the 'ol lifter valley. Check all of your injector connectors and knock sensors.

 

I would think the dealer would've seen chewed wires. My local dealer, that's their first diagnosis.

Run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through a tank of gas. Then do it again.

I find it interesting that they decided all injectors and coil packs failed at the same time.

 

I don't think for a second they believed all of those issues were actually going on. I believe they know what the problem is and were trying to screw my dad. He's older and can't do his own work any more, they saw dollar signs. They tried to talk him into trading trucks while they had the quote in their hands. They and the other dealer within 100 miles are scammy scumbags and I knew better than to go to them

They wouldn't tell me how they came to the conclusion that the injectors were all bad. Didn't say the codes showed that. They said the fuel pump was bad and had been run with it bad for so long that trash had gotten past the filter and into all of the injectors. I told her she was full of it. She said, and I quote, "sir, I've been doing this here at toyota a long time, and Ford before that, and I've seen this a million times before. These trucks that live on dirt roads, this is just how it is these days.." etc, etc, etc.

Also couldn't tell me how they decided he needed a cab filter and engine filter when they'd just gotten done

They did my wife the same way (went for Toyotacare free oil change on her car), they brought out a cab filter that had chew marks and holes from rats and a black engine filter - truck literally had 15k on it. I told them to put whatever filter they'd dragged off the shop shelf right back where they found it. When I got home, her filters were fine and absolutely not the same filters they'd just shown me

I knew they were con artists but really at a loss for where to go from here since they can't be trusted

Also. They wanted $600 just in labor for the spark plugs it supposedly needed, I can't remember what the cost of the parts was

 

No way all of that is bad if it's all original parts, now if it had all been replaced already with cheap Amazon/ebay junk yea I could believe it.

You need to get an actual diagnosis by someone that does actual diagnostics not someone following the commonly replaced parts list.

 

Damn that’s interesting. Do you use farm fuel? Or always go to same gas station? Maybe fuel contaminated.
I had a swath of codes from a bad canister purge valve.
How is your air intake? Air filter doing its job?

 

That's funny.
My purge valve went bad to the point I had a very hard time even getting it to start after fill ups, and it never through a code at all. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

I certainly don't believe their parts list diagnosis - they are just throwing shit there. However, the P11EC and EB codes could be valid and the root of some of the other codes. Those are cylinder imbalance codes possibly related to known valve train issues with the 3.5L. Search the site.

 

Always do go to the same fuel station, we always have, I use the same one he uses - not to say it isn't an issue, but, he burns fuel so fast and puts so many tanks through it, I feel like whatever might have been in the tank is probably diluted or gone by now. I don't think this is the issue but anything is possible. I also feel like my wife and I would have pumped the same bad gas if they had it, since we all buy it round the same time

I will start doing my best to navigate the site to look for the issues you're referring to. Do you have any threads you'd recommend for me to get started on that particular rabbit hole? I'll admit I'm familiar with the 2nd gen trucks, I have one, but I really don't know much about these 3rd gens and the 3.5. I'm gonna guess we're talking about expensive fixes if it is valve train issues

 

Try this for a start. The key for you is going to be finding a technician that actually gives a F and is willing to follow procedure to isolate the issue.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/p11ec-diagnosis.852822/#post-30455926

 

Does it act up under load?
If yes, check the ACIS flap.

 

Yikes. Yeah, it's not looking good. Everything I'm seeing on the searches here say valves and head if it's throwing those codes. A buddy of mine has a leak down tester, so I'll borrow that and see what I come up with. I've never done a top end job on anything this new but if it's as expensive to do it at a shop as what I'm reading, then I may have to learn how to do it.

I'm hoping it's not valves, and part of me wonders how it could be burnt valves if it runs great most of the time, but run like crap at idle and low speed. Part of me thinks it'd be running bad all the time, but I guess crazier things have happened. It is still very responsive and accelerates fine, not sure how it does under a load as it doesn't ever pull a trailer.

Will start with the leakdown test Monday and check for any bad wires - and will look into whatever the previous poster mentioned, the ACIS flap

 

For whatever it’s worth, the number one noticed symptom of people with burnt valves is running rough at idle but fine on the road.

 

For reasons unknown to me (maybe someone knows), Toyota always replaces the head and affected cylinder valve train. It does not seem they should have to for just a burned valve, but they do. That is one reason this is a very expensive repair from the dealer. I hope that is not your issue, but a leak down test will tell you for sure. Good luck and please report back with your findings and plan forward!

 

I don’t know why the dealer didn’t do a leak down test before recommending you throw all those parts at it. I wouldn’t be using that service department in the future.

 

I think what happens is the guides wear on the affected valve, the valve seats improperly, and then it burns. Why it happens mostly in cylinders 1 & 3, no clue. I don’t think they can solve the problem any other way then a new head and valves because that is what you need to fix the head with OEM parts.

 

This! Look for a you tube video to do this.

 

Is putting new heads and valves even worth it in a truck that's just going to require heads and valves again some undetermined interval? Real question