6in. w/ 35in kits

Show me and list your 6" lift kits with your 35" tire kits or larger tire, just show me the fitment and if you still need to do a cab mount chop.

 

You need to chop the frame...not advised. You can fit 35's with a good alignment and a CMC and 37's with extended bump stops and a CMR without putting a 6" lift on.

 

Maybe it's another 2wd spindle lift street queen deal.

 

I have a 2022 Taco on 3.5 RC lift and 33” Cooper rugged treks, ifs my camp truck.

this build will be on my 2020 taco and im looking to build a more ling travel, high clearance setip for crawling and mudding

 

Portal axles is what you need

 

6" is not long travel. It will travel just as much as your 22. You want RCLT HD if you want long travel. Still only about 4" of lift when all is said and done but more down travel.

 

To be fair there are many less expensive and less involved LT kits than RCLT HD.

But to your point in no way is a 6" RC lift long travel and definitely will not help you go rock crawling. Fitting 35s tho, yeah it'll help you do that without the tubbing and cutting involved otherwise.

 

You can fit 35's without tubbing or cutting anything. High caster on the LCA, low caster on the UCA (assuming it is adjustable), 0 offset wheels and an aftermarket front bumper. Extend the bump stop or roll the pinch weld and no rubbing anywhere.

 

In my experience that's just not true. Maybe if you're driving on the street only but once you start flexing at full lock you'll rub all sort of spots.

Im on 35s with BTF LCAs that advance the ball joint nearly an inch forward and have trimmed my fenders 2" and have an aggressive CMC and some tubbing...and they still rub occasionally.

Maybe you're just luckier than me.

 

Honestly I've seen luck play a lot in it! I'm also on Pats that run a little smaller (34.5") and don't touch the fender or firewall at all. I got a CMR already as I have a set of 37's as well. I wheel hard and don't rub anywhere at full stuff and lock either way.

 

I want to see pictures of that tire stuffed and not rubbing a fender. As my 285's ate my fender flare on a +1 wheele and my 295's destroy my fender flares on a -38

 

OP didn't specify a particular brand lift... (the RC 3.5 he mentioned is what's already on his other truck)
Rock crawling is and will always be the one place where more lift helps immensely (sure, I won't argue if you want to also throw mall crawling in with that too lol).
I dunno about y'all who rag on anything over 2-3" lift, but I (and maybe OP too?) prefer to make it over large boulders rather than getting caught on the belly skid and having to be strapped/winched off (or over) it by a Jeep (having retained most of the suspension's downtravel always helps too). 4" - 5" (6" on a DCLB) over stock height is about ideal for what is typical crawling out here in the western part of the U.S. (normally I would suggest a BDS kit before Rough Country, especially at 6").

But yes, a typical lift w/drop-down brackets is not long-travel, you need longer control arms for that (which also increases your track width). You may be able to squeak a bit more travel out of it than without the brackets, but it's not enough (without also putting your CV joints in peril) to be worth mentioning.

Anyway, OP check out this thread if you're just looking for 4-6" pics (it's a long one... 3rd-Gen trucks start popping up around page 605 or so, but keep in mind suspension-wise yours is nearly identical to the 2nd-gen '05-'15 trucks too):
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fabtech-procomp-6-lift-or-more-pictures.43093/

Another (more recent) thread with some good points & counterpoints discussed as well:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/6”-lift.857041/

Welcome to TW.

I'd like to see pics of this too.

 

Here is factory nightshade wheels with 34’s stuffed no rubbing anywhere in Moab and 35’s on factory 3rd gen limited T4R wheels and 1.5” spacers (approx -7 offset) wheeling hard at MERUS.






they grow up so fast don’t they?

 

Perhaps my comment came across wrong. I only meant that wheel travel is almost always the most important thing when it comes down to it. A 6" lift of any brand won't increase wheel travel, and your LCA, diffs, skids, and axles will still be in the same spot they'd be in with a 2" lift and 35s as a 6" with the same tires. The only thing that lifts your lowest points are tires.

Nothing wrong with the 6" lifts if you don't mind messing with the frame/crossmember.

 

Other than a 3” higher center of gravity for no benefit. That’s terrible when it comes to rock crawling as the OP said he wants to do with this truck.

 

I was trying to be generous.

 

lmao
So you actually would not consider clearing a rock on a climb and driving right over it a "benefit", vs. being denied the climb (or having to be strapped up it) because you're dragging your frame (skidplates) against rocks with your wheels unable to reach the ground because you don't have enough downtravel anymore?
I mean, after all that is exactly what you're saying here... (you haven't used the cutting of the crossmember as a reasoning for why 4-6" lift is bad in the rocks, if that is the real reason why you're dogging on an actual suspension lift that keeps your frontend geometry factory-like)...

Really sounds to me like the usual fear-mongering over the crossmember from someone who's never experienced wheeling a rig with good clearance. 3" more lift (6") is not all that much on a 2nd or later-gen Tacoma... And 1" more lift (4") is even less.

 

Im seeing snipets of good info. I am considering a 6" lift for the purpose of not modifying the wheel well of the truck, to clear the belly, and to fit full size 35's to start off since it is what i have on hand. ( i bought them for my 2022 taco with the 3.5" kit and they wont fit without heavily modding the wells.

So, 6" is where i am leading, yes i know clearance overall comes with wheel diameter moreso than lift but, typically the axle point and diffs end up clearing no issue, so i am really just looking to get the body up higher and the belly up higher.

That said, no i dont want the RC 6" kit, I dont like the look of it or the involvement of its parts to install. I want a clean system that works well, the OME 4" kit comes to mind but I would like something that has the extra height.

 

I literally mentioned cutting the frame first post. And the skid plate isn’t any higher with a drop bracket lift. Soooooo yeah, you don’t have any more downtravel than a 3” lift like others have stated as well. Your front carrier and rear differential are going to be in the same spot with a 6” vs 3” lift and you can’t clear any bigger tires with the 6” lift. Yes, I will agree your frame rails will be taller and your break over angle will be higher with the 6” lift but you can usually defeat that with a good line and/or spotter. I have wheeled with a lot of drop bracket lifted trucks and have gone just as far if not farther on the same size tires. I’ve also seen more drop bracket trucks on their side due to higher CG when off camber than 2-3” lifted trucks.