6in. w/ 35in kits

There is no non-drop bracket lift that can give you more than 3" of lift without completely eliminating all downtravel, without going LT...or portals. Actually now that I think about it it seems like portals are what you want but they're very expensive

 

This is the 2020 Cement DCLB I picked up to start this build with.

 

Trail limo! Hell yeah. Don’t see too many on the trails around here. Too long of wheelbase. But love the color.

 

Yes, I saw you mention chopping the frame, but no you did not use that as your reason for why it's bad in the rocks.
It's much easier to find a right line that will clear the front and/or rear diff than it is to find a line that will clear the entire belly of the truck.
What else i find funny about the raised-CoG and flipping-over comments on this board: Suddenly it's OK if the truck is 2WD... The only difference here is the 2WD doesn't need the crossmember cut. So what's up with that?

Nice truck. I can see why you'd want 6" on that (long-ass belly on that thing).
If you want a good 6" lift, this is what I suggest:
https://bds-suspension.com/products...oyota-tacoma-16-23-4wd?variant=52389123326323
However I would suggest ditch the 4" tall rear blocks for 2" blocks together with a set of good 2-3" lift leaf springs (if you order the 4" version you'll get said blocks w/same everything else, except the front coilover shocks come adjusted lower and will need to be readjusted higher to have the front at 6").
Another option is have a company such as Alcan custom-make you a pair of 6" leaf packs for your truck. They are $$$ though.

If that kit w/Fox is too spendy, then there are ways to fit Bilstein 5100s or other more-budget-minded (but still good) shocks on a 6" lift. I'd say poke around some in the Suspensions section here (which is where the threads I linked earlier are).

 

Correct. The cutting of the crossmember won’t have any effect on wheeling on the rocks. It is bad for resale value and if the third gen ever has a frame recall like the second, it could potentially disqualify a new frame replacement.

That comes with experience and good spotting. I’ve never been in a situation where my skids (same height for engine skid no matter what lift is installed due to the front differential being the limiting factor for clearance) would clear an obstacle that my frame or drive shaft wouldn’t. Not saying it is t possible and I’ve seen plenty of turtled trucks on the trails but stacking a couple rocks could easily clear that obstacle.

I see no point in lifting a 2WD over 3” when wheeling either. The only plus I see about any 6”+ lift is it looks pretty bad ass with some meats under it. But not practical whatsoever and the OP mentioned rock crawling and trails with this truck so I stand behind my statements.

I also would never suggest anyone wheel with blocks in the back. The amount of axle wrap you get from blocks under a leaf is ridiculous and dangerous. A true 6” lift in the back requires cutting the bed up to put a shock brace in the bed. That’s why most are 4” and 6” rear with extended bumps and med travel shocks so you don’t get any more travel than a 3” like said above as well.

 

A CMC/CMR can cause the same denial from Toyota's perspective too (the frame has been modified by the user).
A truck that has it's fenders all cut up for 35s & pinch seam smashed in ain't going to have much resale either, FYI.

Sounds like you haven't been the same places I have... Look up Gold Mountain and John Bull trails in Big Bear Calif. Also, the upper third of Miller Jeep Trail near Frazier Park. I've strapped a few Tacos lacking enough lift on those myself that couldn't clear some part of the trail.

So no comment on why 4-6" lifts on 2WD trucks aren't dissed upon like the same on 4WD trucks are?

Not sure where you got that from... As I said, one option is full 6" lift leaf springs from Alcan Spring. The bumpstop only needs to be extended approx half the amount the lift is tall (this because the shock collapsed length increases roughly half the amount the shock is longer extended). So if you lift 6", in theory the bumpstop clearance only needs to be lowered 3", so you have a 3" increase in total travel. But how much of an issue is even the 9-10" travel (what you get with a ~24" long 5125 for example) off road? Why would 2-3" more lift change that?

A 2" block generally is not enough to be a problem unless you're building a high-speed desert runner (not what the OP is building). A 4" block OTOH can be a problem on most any rig.

 

That's cool and all and kudos for actually running your truck but that is still hitting the fender liner when stuffed there just simply isn't to much extra space to add that much tire size and no hit it. That low offset tucks into the flare nicely.

Have to see what the future brings for my next set up I feel a lower offset and taller tire is coming but we will see after the 295's are cooked this summer.

Back to ops situation,
Is your other truck a dcsb o aclb? Why not consider transferring things over and making the trail limo the camp rig and making the short rig dedicated to trail (pending its actually a different lay out)

And I'm suprised there's been no other followers on the portal suggestion it's legitimately what suits the application best. Yes it's expensive but it takes care of all of the concerns and handles the regear. Diff clearance/body clearance. Pretty sure if you combine those with a mild suspension lift you can be 4+" with good cv angles. And no blocks in the rear. If i was building a dedicated trail rig it'd be top of the list.

 

Yes and no. The 34’s didn’t touch anything. I don’t have liners anymore since I installed the snorkel (never got around to putting them back on after cutting the fender) and 35’s. When I put the 37’s on, I’ll be beating the firewall and making my own liners from sheet metal.

To be fair, I 100% support $30k in portals!! About the same price as re-gear and front and rear long travel though. And OP has a sport so would need lockers anyway. But if I had $45k to throw at a $35k truck, lockers and portals would be sick

 

Portals certainly would be awesome (gobs of clearance everywhere), but yeah $$$$$ is the issue for many.
I haven't looked at ones specifically for a Taco, but I recall portals in general give about 4-5" lift just on their own. You certainly can add to that with a little more lift on the suspension.
OP hasn't said how much he would drive this on the street... I suspect portals with their gear trains would be noisier, and the ride more harsh from the greater unsprung weight. But if the camp rig is OP's daily drive, then it probably wouldn't matter much.

The amount of lift you previously said can lead to trucks being on their side is OK with portals? What is it about portals that changes where the CoG is?

 

Yes get portals
https://motorsports.74weld.com/product/4-gear-tacoma-4runner-portal/

 

I mean if you have 2 tacomas and one is being built for a trail righow much street noise or cash concern can there really be?

 

3.88" lift... Combine that with 1-1.5" with a set of Fox mid-travel shocks would be right about the sweet spot for lift.

 

6” on 35’s
3” blocks


Swapped out for icon rxt setup 3 and it achieved same lift if not better and more functional.


Front next looking to get the icon 6” lift coil over

 

I've been running the 6" RC Vertex kit for a few years, and zero complaints, and I spend a lot of time in the rocks. No rubbing up to 37's, after that, I definitely had more issues. I bought my truck kinda sight unseen, without knowing it had a 6" (block and spacer lift). I made the most out of it, and there are few trails in Colorado I have been afraid of attempting (non-buggy heavy trails....). Upgrading to the Vertex kit with adjustable coils, and remote reservoirs, definitely helped ride-ability.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-31s-to-43s-and-everything-in-between.853429/

On 40's


On 38's


37's


35's


I'm not claiming a 6" kit is equal to or better than something like an RCLT kit, but my main wheeling buddy has been on 40's with his 3rd Gen RCLT Tacoma, and we run many of the same trails, and similar lines, so it hasn't been a detriment to me "keeping up".

 

Just like the RCLT kit, portals add 7" of track to the truck, much less prone to a roll over than a drop bracket...and as stated, they add a little over 3.5" of lift, not 6.

 

@Bfox has some of what you're looking for

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2012-supercharged-long-travel-on-37’s-columbus-ga.854960/

 

Sorry, guess I should've been more specific and included given a similar track width...
Most people are not going to want tires sticking out 3.5" from their truck fenders. Most will use a much more positive-offset wheel with the portals to get the truck back to not looking like has a bro-dozer lift, and to also make their scrub radius something manageable (that, or go fiberglass fenders and to hell with the scrub radius). But on that same note, what prevents you putting shallow-backspace wheels and fiberglass fenders on any other lift? LT & fiberglass? (though that last one will still maintain good scrub)
See where I'm going?
Drop-brackets, portals, LT, wheel-offset... All will change where your CoG is (and all lifts will place the CoG very close to the same, if given a specific track width and lift height). These can all be used to advantage depending on how you combine them.

I get it, you are one of the many who hates DBs based on what you've read on the internet (and maybe have seen someone's less-than-well-executed example as an apparent confirmation of it). But as you can see, there also are some great posts in (not just) this thread where people have had great use out of them too.

If you wish to keep bashing them, then let's at least bash on them using the correct facts about them (cutting the crossmember). Just remember that cutting up fenders & hammering pinch seams (or pretty much any other mod that requires cutting/welding) does nothing for things like resale either... So six & one-half dozen of the other.

I'm gonna come back and nit-pick this one just a bit...
The portals T4R linked moves the (effective) axle centerline away from the bottom of your leaf springs the same amount 3.88" tall blocks will (so would have the same axle wrap and kicking-sideways of the rearend over bumps issue). However it does still eliminate a point of failure (no block to potentially be spit out), and you also can swap the springs to SUA too, which would get around the wrap & kicking issue (and then some). Probably use the 6" Alcan springs I mentioned earlier for the SUA swap.

 

So after all of this why don't we just throw in a SAS swap into the mix aswell

 

Can't go wrong with tons and 40s

 

35s fit the rear with zero trimming, just rubs the rexgen mud flaps a tad lol
The wheels you select will determine how much massaging you’ll do in the front. With these Summit Racing (SSW now) I had to beat the pinch weld flat and I chopped the cab mount for insurance.