What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I think he assumed it based upon it being hot after arriving somewhere

 

correct. I just got the rear axle up on jackstands (with the front tires secured) in N, and yeah, drivers side wheel was almost completely locked up, passenger spun freely. Took the wheel off, couldn't remember which way to spin the star nut, so used bolts to push the drum off. The star nut just way over adjusted itself Cleaned everything up with brake clean (there was a lot of dust, probably looking at a brake job and fluid flush this weekend) loosened the star nut a few turns, put the drum and wheel back on, and i'm gonna go for a drive now...

 

Installed these switches where the clock once was. I already have two clocks (my Wolfbox monitor and head unit), so I didn't need a third. The left switch is wired to my ditch lights, the other is unassigned until I maybe install some roof rack lighting.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1151633287/clock-switch-panel-w-rocker-switches-for

 

Sheesh that vent outlet looks rough. I wonder if you could clean it up a little with a heat gun and some patients for a better seal/fit.
You'll be happy to have that this summer for sure

 

Good call sir, that stake nut was this loose as soon as I separated the two drive shaft halves:

https://youtube.com/shorts/LIOmuhUE6kQ?si=m0AaDx3UNLVO6dMl

I had proactively ordered a carrier bearing and it'll be here Friday, and I got a fresh stake nut on the shelf. Do you think its worth swapping in a new carrier bearing? Current one is a Spicer that's been in there for about 4 years (about 25k miles on it).

 

Not as bad as it looks, but eh…it’s going to be mated against a cutout in the trim so it really shouldn’t present much issue

 

Glad you figured it out. Seeing how it’s a pain in the butt, I’d probably swap the carrier bearing while you’re in there, but 25k is pretty low miles. The bearing may have fretted or galled while it was moving around in there too, could be suspect.

The torque sequence for that staked nut is weird, they go over it in this thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-carrier-bearing.260283/

 

Could you add some extra rubber trim around it or something to help?

I'm sure it won't make a ton of difference either way but it's good to see more people taking advantage of this mod

 

Damn that’s pretty wild it got loose like that. I think only buy a new one if you really hate working on the driveshaft. That spicer should have a while left in it.

 

Yea I was pumped when I found it that loose, because I was expecting to see the splines all worn out and having to order a new driveshaft. I also find it bizarre that my only symptom was a vibration at 70mph+ (no clunks or noises).

Planning to just slap a new Spicer on there because I do hate doing driveline work and don't want be touch it again anytime soon. Also am a bit concerned that the slop from the loose stake nut could have damaged the carrier bearing itself a bit

 

Touch it once is my motto.

You're already there and the new part will be in your hands.

How much more service does the existing part owe you? Just say'n.

Mike

 

Yea that's the plan I've settled on. Amazon says my new Spicer unit is 10 stops away, so I should have her all buttoned up this evening.

 

Hooked up a diagnostic manifold just to make absolutely sure that the R134 was all gone before starting to open up the AC system and... yep. Bugger. Absolutely zero pressure. Got all the parts out that don't require breaking seals to try to minimize moisture getting in the system.

Ordered a MAHLE fuel filter to go ahead & get that taken care of as well. I know, I know. OEM all the way, but honestly, MAHLE makes good filters.

 

Installed a Pop & Lock for my tailgate. Didn't like the idea of fingernails or gloves scraping the paint when going to open it so it adds a nice level of protection. For anyone installing one, would highly recommend adding some rubber weatherstripping behind the plastic that lays against the metal or filing the lips down, otherwise the plastic will dig into the paint. I took off the plastic ring that goes around the OEM handle and ran it along the edges of both and added a drainage hole at the bottom of the Pop & Lock so water doesn't build up behind it

 

LCA white line bushings going in along with new shock bushings. First time doing this job so I’m a little skeptical but luckily I have time on my side this time. It’s been a California truck most of its life I believe so I’m hoping that it shouldn’t fight me too much.. but I’ve been wrong before. Open to your words of wisdom for this project.

 

Installed plug/play differentials from East Coast Gear Supply (ECGS) with 4.56 and an LSD in the rear. Only problem was the rear differential pinion yoke flange was 66 x 66mm and my driveshaft flange is 60 x 60mm, it changed either late 1st gen or 2nd gen. I 3D printed a jig and drilled new holes 45-deg out which is common for these flanges in the aftermarket anyway. Works like a charm! So nice having the new gearing.







Note: that's just chalk that my son drew on. The bumper is covered in bedliner which has a rough texture that's perfect for chalk. Washes right off

 

Didn’t finish but progress made on my Tuffy center console knockoff

 

Is the Tuffy no longer sold? Your version looks clean dude! I couldn't quite find what I was looking for either and instead cutdown and modified a police center console from Havis. Just been 3D printing faces for things

 

Tuffy’s still around, I just didn’t want to pay $300. Had a bunch of 16 gauge sitting around, probably still be into it ~$100 including hardwares, paint, etc, might be hard to justify when my time is limited.

It’ll be almost the same dimensions, even using a Tuffy lock and the cup holder.

 

Still working on situating this fully (I ordered a 200A contactor that should be here end of week), but it's been installed and is a welcome change so far