Easier way to replace coolant bypass

Correct.

 

I wasn’t risking putting on a different part after all the work to get to the bad one… figured I have better odds at the new one lasting longer than 85k.

 

Metal components that come in contact with coolant don’t fair as well in the end. They get eaten up bad.

Begs to differ why it’s not happening to the other plastic coolant components. As some have said, a design/manufacturing defect. However, that leads to this. And it may help for its longevity.

The best maintenance practice has to be what a member mentioned a couple months ago. He said that coolant turns caustic. Toyota says to swap the coolant every five years, per tech. It doesn’t cost much, and am thinking of doing it every 4. It was easy to see the tone and tint (for example) in the pink coolant from used to new. It was considerably different.

 

I figured it's easier for me to just replace it once ever 3 years or 30 when I do the transmission fluid and diff.

 

Just wanted to update from my late March entries. I did have the coolant bypass pipe replaced by an independent shop, not the dealer, who does work on our vehicles. They completed the job with no issues. I did replace the old pipe with a new one, same design, etc. Knocking on wood somewhere when I say this but so far all is well, no leaks, no issues !!

 

Do you know how they approached it? Dropped the transmission? From the top? etc.?

Also, how much did it end up costing you?

 

Yes, they did it from the top, removed manifold, etc. Cost about $1250. I posted that awhile ago on another thread on TW about the coolant pipe, and most agreed that price was in line for the job. It was just something I didn't/couldn't do myself anymore.

 

Im replacing my chewed up anti knock sensor wiring harness next month. Will be checking out that access to to the coolant pipe when I’m in to it.

 

Well, I am getting both parts and I am going to try to use the aluminum one. If I cannot I will put in the plastic one. I am going to access by removing the manifold. It is likely I will have to tilt the motor forward by jacking the tranny/transfer case. A shop quoted me $1250 but I think I can do it. Once I get the parts I am going to go to the parts shop and get hoses that will route to the heater line and use a nipple to connect the two. I think it’s stupid they designed it this way as the previous models use metal, and the failure rate makes it so obvious. I tried to reach out to Jowett but no reply. He has stated in threads that he put it all in storage and has not gotten back to it. Bummer. I’ll see what I can do. I saw in a TSB for misaligned coolant pipe that the manifold-mounted port injector fuel supply lines don’t even need to be disconnected as it is just laid over to the side. I still may disconnect.

Wish me luck, y’all.

 

Good Luck. Let us know how you made out !!

 

For $1200 I'd let them do it! I'm cheap, but for the amount of time and the stuff I'd break along the way (or the inevitable special tool I would need) that price is a no brainer for me! Let us know how it goes!

 

Before you replace the coolant bypass pipe, make sure your leak is not coming from a hose near the front of your engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ay5QixouaU8