TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I can certainly redo it with an addafuse somewhere else. I just never realized the noise before. New blower makes many new sounds.

 

I've broken multiple URD Pulley presses. There's FAR better press options available on ebay that the Tundra guys have been using.

 

I'm lucky I just happened to have some spare parts on hand I swapped in to finish the press. Alright I will admit the following blunder - It was backing off and I didn't notive until it popped. When it did the press bolt fell, and through some magic pinball pachenko voodoo took a hard turn straight into my radiator and punched a hole in it. Now my radiator is a stock, 15 year old piece so sure replacing it - not a bad idea. Just wasn't planning on it. And I am hoping that even though the level is at half theres still collant around the water pump so that seal isn't drying while I wait for parts.

The thrust bearing and/or the surrounding washers were disintegrating once under load though. That tool is definitely not the best.

 

So, on my little adventure I have discovered that my idler tension on the main (not sc) belt is definitely in need of replacement - and I don't have that part on hand. So I will be back under the hood soon.

Somehow when I ordered the new belt on the SC side to match the 2.7 pulley I ended up with a belt that is massively too long. No idea how, I'll figure that out later. But I do need to be able to run this thing for work tomorrow, so back on the old belt goes. I believe its maybe a half inch longer for the stock 3.0 pulley. How bad is it to run with that belt temporarily? Will the tensioner be able to catch up that slack? Again this is a very temporary solution.

 

I run a stock length belt on the 2.8. Might be ok but I run a heavier tensioner vs the stock one.

 

I have zero problems running my 2.5" RIP-modded pulley with a stock belt, stock tensioner, and @Roostfactor's Pulley Wrap Mod. YMMV, of course, but I think you'll be OK, especially for short-term use.

 

So I had to take it out for an immediate test run once the new radiator was in, which was great mostly.

Definitely just injected some more ponies. Cruising around 45/45mph, I stomp on it and it just snaps up in rpm. 3k-4500 rpm feels like a switch.

For some reason my boost gauge went dead! So I have no high score to compare it to booo. Need to vet my crimp work I guess. But it looks fine. Maybe the ARM gauge just... died? Doesn't make sense.

Hey a big thank you to everyone that has the experience and hangs out to contribute here. Really has helped me out in a ton of ways and I appreciate yall big time.

 

Definitely check to make sure you have a solid grounding point....Just speaking from experience.

 

On a whim I moved my add a fuse into another slot. Perked right up. Huh. But it's working so there you go!

When I grounded that one I did make a good point, and then slaved in another 4 unused wires for future purposes. Just solder and go.

 

Finally got a helical lsd.. I really outgrew the locker as a mostly street driven vehicle and will need proper traction control with all of the recent modifications.

Waiting on the carrier shims and diff stud delete kit before teardown..

 

Ok, question guys and girls…under heavy acceleration…sometimes it feels like it cuts off. When it does happen, it’s almost feels like a hiccup. Does it sound like a fuel delivery issue?? I didn’t replace the fuel pump/filter yet, it’s in my garage.

 

Quite possibly. I'm in the same boat. Have the part on the shelf. You can always do a fuel pressure test but if you already have the part, might as well throw it in and see what happens.

 

Definitely, that's one of reason I swap with urd fuel pump kit, the oem pump can't provide consistent pressure fuel especially when heavy acceleration. I can see that because I have fuel pressure gauge, each time I make hard pull, the pressure going down below 38psi. Once I install new pump, when I pull hard on acceleration the pressure is steady on 43psi. So you can try yourself if you already have it

 

could also be a bad tank of gas. You could try tossing in a QUALITY bottle of octane booster (something that costs more than $3).

I have had one bad tank of gas in 5 years and a bottle of STP Octane Booster fixed me up.

 

I feel better knowing it’s not a major issue or of concern. Hopefully I’ll have the chance to slap it on soon.

First tank of gas was 93 and only did it once, and this morning I had to fill up with 91…only thing available around my work.

 

Seems like a lot have also done the CSF radiator upgrade, as I just did.

My new "high score" is a p0128 code, on first google seems to say the coolant temp is too low. I have the mishimoto 160 degree thermostat in as well. So it makes sense that it is running cooler, sure. Is this just a need to update the cpu issue? Possibly still have some air to burp out of the system as well but I would think stuck air would make it seem hot. The thermo gauge in the cluster is running as it usually does.

 

I pretty much always use 91... but I almost always operate above 5000'/1524meters above sea level and that's the highest octane we have at normal pumps.

 

Hmmm, I run a CSF and MotoRad 160 degree thermostat but haven't come across this code. Highly doubt it'd be a stuck thermometer but ya never know. Here's what Google says on it. Maybe it's possibly a failed sensor?

 

What is your plan with that?

Make me curious

 

Install it... haha. I noticed a leak from the 3rd member the other day and have always wanted to swap out the existing locker for something with better traction control than just on or off... albeit the locker would perform substantially better offroad but that has been a rarity as of late.


Just received the 3rd member stud delete kit and the carrier shim kit woot