Ground clearance questioned.

I've got a 2018 TRD Off Road DBL Cab Long Bed. I've added a full set of RCI metal skids and Cali Raised rock sliders. My suspension is stock with the exception of adding Bilstein 5100 rear shocks after a stock shock began leaking oil at 70k. Tires are stock size 265/70/16 Mickey Thompson AT.

Here are the ground clearances that I measure:

Center hub to front fender lip 20in.
Center hub to rear fender lip 21in.
Bottom of front skid plate to ground 7.5in.
Botton of exhaust crossover skid to ground 7in.

From what I've read, my truck should have had 9.5in of ground clearance stock. I have no idea where this measurement is taken from. I've also read that center hub to fender lip is 21/22in front and back respectively. I'm beginning to think the 9.5in of ground clearance I've been reading about is pure BS. If anyone with a stock truck has this clearance, please show me a pic of where this measurement is taken from with a tape measure on it.

I can understand losing 1in of ground clearance from the addition of approximately 300lbs of armor, but measurements from the ground indicate a loss of 2-2.5in of clearance. I'm going to do the exhaust crossover (rock catcher) relocate in the near future and try to flip the skid over to gain more clearance. My clearance issues in the front will only be fixed with and lift and/or larger tires, but I know this can be a slippery slope, as I have already gone through this with a Jeep Wrangler.

 

I did not take initial underside pics of my fully stock 2016 OR purchased in 2023, however I specifically measured and wrote down clearance at exhaust crossover and rear dif, and had 9".

The other measurement I recorded early on was armor weight effect on constant front suspension. My front dropped a whole inch just from RCI steel skid package and sliders.

Your clearance measurements with skids over those points given the additional weight added sounds right.

 

Ya, I think Mike said it all. A taller tire will give you another 1/2" to 1" lift.

 

Thanks for the input!

So, if my Taco is now squatting 2 inches due to body armor - a 2 inch lift should restore the stock ride height and not require after market UCAs or diff drop I assume, since all I'm doing is restoring the stock geometry?

 

Between the added weight and the suspension settling, I'd say that everything sounds about normal.

Also, tire sizes are not always the same brand to brand. You can get a bunch of tires in 265/70R16 from a bunch of different brands, measure them, and you'll have variances. Some run larger, some smaller.

On top of that, OP, how old/how many miles are on your Mickey Thompsons? If they aren't brand new, then they are going to be worn and also lowering the clearance a small amount.

 

No. A lift doesn't add any ground clearance.

 

Measured at the rear diff

 

More meat = more clearance!

 

The 9.5” of ground clearance is measured at the bottom of the rear diff.

 

I just took some more measurements.

Diff to ground is 8.5in.
Tire from ground to center of hub is 14.5in when on the truck is on the ground.

The tires diameter, with about 30k miles on them, appears to be 29.5in.

It looks like I've also lost an inch from tire diameter.

 

When you put a taller tire on, the ground clearance increases. I switched from the stock 265/70-16 to the ~1" taller 265/75-16 an gained 1/2" more clearance (9.5" now), without any tire rub. I also upgraded the suspension to Bilstein 5100s, all around. The front I set one notch taller and the rear I added Ride Rite adjustable air bags, set them around 15 psi, adding air if I have a heavy load, up to 25 psi. These are to keep the truck level but could be used to install an even taller tire. I am happy with the near-stock set up as the ride is still comfortable and the truck is not unstable at highway speed.

 

I've been thinking about 255/85/16 pizza cutters, 5100s on front to level it, along with the crossover relocate. I have no problem cutting on the truck to solve rubbing issues.

 

TRD off-roads, pros and manuals actually have less ground clearance than other trims because they have a larger rear diff. The stronger diff with a rear locker is worth it though.

 

That's a pretty broad statement...

The only place a lift does not increase ground clearance is under the rear diff. Anywhere else it does increase (yes, under the front diff too because it's IFS). When you're traveling over an obstacle while off road, it is much easier to find a travel path (line) that will clear the rear differential, than it is to find a line that will clear the whole underside of the truck. This is very significant, especially in OP's case because he has a DCLB.

OP, what was the issue you had on your Jeep, that I assume you're trying to avoid on your Tacoma? (your calling lifting "a slippery slope", which it certainly can be if not well-knowing what to do) It's hard to go wrong with 5100s, but there certainly are plenty of options to pick from...

 

I think you are in a good spot because you have all that weight already on it. Now you can eval tire size and axle/dif clearance gained back from tire size alone, separate from suspension improvement for the additional chassis mass.

 

Since you have 5100’s in back add a single Deaver leaf to those springs, also 5100’s in front set up to the 3rd notch. Buying higher profile tires next time you get them will help also, are you on 16” or 17” rims? Mine are 265/75R16 with no rubbing- they gave about a 1” differential lift over stock.

 

The slippery slope I speak of has to do with modifications that result in other OEM components being compromised in the driveline because they no longer operate at their designed angles or stress tolerances. IE Birfield joints, U joints, ring and pinion, axles...... Then their is the addition problem of ME wanting an absolute trail beast and winding up with an LS3, 4.5in lift, full float Danan 60s and 39in KM2s, among other things.

 

Ahh, Gotcha.
Yeah it's inevitable that there will always be a cascade of additional things that will need addressing as your mods become more serious & more in-depth. That is what makes the rabbit hole we dive down into when we mod our vehicles.

Unless you're looking for more lift (4"+), I would say stick with 5100s (1.5-2" lift). 5100s are a nice simple (mostly stand-alone) lift upgrade that should not affect things elsewhere in the driveline enough to matter.
265/75R16 (31.5") tires should fit with no rubbing, 285/75R16 (33") will need some minor cutting at the bottom-rear of the front fenders, and possibly a CMC, but shouldn't need any more than that if you can find an alignment shop that is familiar with lifted trucks and will set the caster angles higher for you (higher caster tends to move the wheel forward & away from the back part of the fender).

Beyond that, you would then start getting into things like:
*UCAs (upper control arms add back the caster angle that is lost when you lift above 2", also gives more coil spring clearance / greater ball joint angle, which can allow more droop travel),
*Diff drop (lowers the front differential approx ½" for a small decrease in CV shaft angle)
*Drop bracket kits (corrects the CV joint, steering (tie rod), and control arm angles for lifts 4" & above / restores droop travel),
*Long-travel kits (longer control arms for more total travel / more track width)

Additional items:
*Carrier bearing drop (reduces u-joint angles (and vibration) on the rear driveshaft due to the lift)
*Axle (pinion) angle shims (corrects the driveshaft rear u-joint angle)

And then what bigger tires can bring:
*Regearing the axles (might as well add locker(s) too while the axles are apart).


Cool Jeep! Just be aware a Tacoma (especially a DCLB) might struggle to go many of the same places... The long wheelbase and the IFS can be hindrances in very large rocks unless you reeeally start throwing some $$$ at it (to include going even as far as swapping out the IFS entirely for a solid axle), which this it sounds like you're trying to avoid.
With enough searching and poking around the forum here, you should be able to get a decent grasp on what you need within a fairly short time.

 

Thanks for the input. It's been to Moab 3 times. 3 rated trails or less are no problem, but I've been out there 25 times and know the trails. Rocks beat the crap out of the skids, but that's what they're their for right?

 

Get that exhaust reroute and brace the transmission skid bottom so it does not bend when sliding over ledges and overtaking high center points. That is what I am working on next. Tacoma wheelbase is way longer than a Wrangler or FJ Cruiser.
Long live the early regular cab, short bed versions.