Truck immobilized due to security system, truck has no power, please help.

This morning I got in my truck to go to work. I had the emergency break pulled and I went to start my truck and it clicked off-the truck shut itself off. I tried a few more times to start it. (For whatever reason) and it gave no response.

I have been having problems with the security system fuse burning about every drive. Thus my security system has been a problem.

I removed my security system and I still have no power/ my truck is disabled.

IT WILL DO NOTHING.

No power. Nothing.

I am actively working on this.

I do not know what in the system has failed and why. Additionally, it is hard to look up this as all I get is dead battery, alternator, starter all there are less than 2 years old.

I will still test a jump start.

For now I'm going to wait a very long 30 minutes and see if that does anything or not. (I'm betting nothing will happen)

 

here's the junk.

 

You will have to find the wires where it’s connected with color code and solder it back together. If you just disconnect the alarm without rewiring the system back to factory, it will not function.

 

On mine they cut the white/red wire and ran thru the unit...

I had to re attach the two ends

 

It looks like you have disconnected the paas through harness that goes inline with the harness near the ignition switch.
I could be wrong about your alarm, but with the VIP system that was considered a factory alarm, they simply unplugged the big harness under the steering column and plugged a harness inline that provides switched power and constant power as well as starter kill.

You have to either plug the alarm harness back in or bypass it by joining the vehicle's original male and female plugs together. Again, yours may be different, but that is my guess.

 

The white / Red wire is fed throught the AM2 fuse inside the engine fuse box, look at that fuse first. If Im remember correctly this fuse bolts in from under the upper fuse panel so before you try to pry it out look and see if it does.

 

Ok I'm looking into some of these.

I have checked 3 ground that I know about.
1. Battery post to the side of body. (Like next to the battery.
2.white wire that goes to my engine fuse box
3. Slightly Above oil pan/near oil filter battery side

The battery has been out all night.

I managed to get power in the vehicle.

I tryed to start it and it clicked and then turned of power.

I don't know much about electrical. Pulling the security system out was pretty intuitive. I don't know about what may cause the truck to not allow me to start it.

There is one wire I wasn't sure about. (I'll post a photo in a minute)

 

Ok, not beating up on you but lets get some terminology out of the way, does she not crank or crank and not start?

 

That’s not a Toyota alarm/keyless TVP system.

 

No wires are disconnected other than two (that I'll post in a minute.)

The security system plugged into these guys that just "bite" into the wire.

As for connectors.


I plugged the stock back in.

I don't know much about electrical but I'll be learning today. /:

 

So here is the blue wire and where I plugged it in based on my intuition. (I put black sharpe spots on it so i didn't forget which one it was)



Previously a BLUE white wire (from security system) was plugged into that spot.

And the BLUE (sharpe-ed) wire what was stock was in a connector that connects together and a solt white wire is on the other side.



BLUE white (pointing at)
WHITE (Goes to connector under my finger.)
STOCK BLUE (went into connector above my finger)

 

Yes that one of my problems is the terminology. There's so many words in this situation that are similar.

So

When I first plugged in the battery today.
I was able to turn the key to "ON" and have power. When I turned the key to "START" I heard a click and ALL ALL POWER TO THE VEHICLE WAS KILLED. (No lights, no unlocking of doors, NOTHING ELECTRIC WORKS)

Then after that I disconnected the battery for about ten minutes and reconnected it. Turned the key to "ON" and had NO POWER STILL nothing worked. ALL ELECTRICAL DIDN'T WORK.

Some system in the car is killing ALL of the power and is remembering (for some time to keep it killed) I want it gone but I don’t know where or what it is.

 

How old is your battery? Are you sure it's good (even if it's relatively new)?
Did you check/clean the battery terminals?

 

Battery terminals are new and make very good connection. Battery is less than 2 years old (along with starter and alternator) checked the battery at autozone and it was good.

 

I have it like so,

Should be good no? Factory back to factory. (Above i mentioned what might be the problem but overall I don't know how the ignition system works.)

I'll pull up skematics in a little bit.

 

On mine it's doesn't appear that they CUT any of the cables. It looks like they tap-ed into and relocated one of them.

They might of relocated wires that I am not aware of tho I kinda doubt it.

 

To immobilize they had to cut something somewhere.......its not a sub routine sent to ecm
taps can only take you so far

Are u sure the problem isn't something else....like ignition switch going out

I would probably replace the am1 and am2 fuse for shits/giggles
and keep old ones for spare


Ign movie

I recommend replacing switch at 160K......or buy some good walking shoes
the contacts are tiny little springs...that get cooked over time
or get contaminated with grease or graphite from lubing the cylinder above it

never lube key cylinder.....bad ideal

 

Seems like power comes on and falls on its face when attempting engine crank.
Maybe the cables/terminals are good enough to pass low current but not for higher loads.
The thick battery cables can be rotten inside and look good outside ( I have seen this and it behaves the same).
Your battery terminals look greasy, so that can be good enough to power lights but not bear the load of engine crank ( I have seen this before)

Obviously, if you turn the key to start and you get an attempt to crank, the circuit is complete and not cut someplace, it just doesn't carry enough load to turn the starter.

Most alarm systems feature a starter kill relay that is energized when in armed mode and it cuts the signal to the starter, but if you were to disconnect the power to the alarm control module the starter would work normally again.

 

Hopefully someone will upload a power source diagram. With a diagram and a test light you can figure it out.

 

There's 1 in 3 chance this is yours



this was not mine pre 2000