Colorado B.S. Thread

What is your opinion on the rusty cylinders? Worth a shot or scrap it? I think if the pitting is minimal, and it hasn't been bored yet, going .030 over might clean it up? It obviously needs pistons, valves, etc, which are worth doing if the block can be saved. I'd be happy to keep it a stock or mild build. Open headers make anything sound fast.

 

I am somewhat tempted to send an oil sample to Blackstone, just to see what they say.

 

A stock flathead maxed about around 120 HP but cars weren't all that heavy back then and other "working mans" cars like Chevs had six cylinders so the Ford was a performer back in the day. They also have a wonderful exhaust sound.

Many of the old flatheads were "rebuilt" several times over their service life, garages used to hone the cylinders and install new rings, sometimes oversized rings.

With this old stuff you need to do some digging for information, the guys who build 350 Chevs aren't going to be able to help you.

Fortunately there are plenty of books about flatheads, a little money on e-pay or AMZ can get you several used books.

You will have to get everything apart and cleaned up so you can measure the bore & crank.
Ask around and find a machine shop familiar with these engines.

 

all you have to do is get it mostly bolted together so that it somewhat resembles a motor. Then you can "LS swap" it.

 

Looking at it with fresh eyes, and a flashlight, the intake ports are rusted, like clogged. Valve assemblies might come out with some cussing. Some do move and fortunately the entire spring, guide and valve comes out as one unit. Some info about cutting the things off and pounding them out thru the bottom.

Pink elixer doing what it can.

Lifters do move fairly free.
But that right bank of cylinders, holy shit.
Need to flip it over and pull the pan, remove the connecting rods and see if the crank spins, maybe hammer the pistons out.
Valve removal tool is around $50, primitive crowbar looking thing, might be able to make it. Just needed to pull one clip per valve.
All parts are readily available, found a top load 3 speed last night for $350, 3-4 day free shipping.
Figured out where the generator goes, it does spin nice, brushes look fine. so I got that going for me.

 

Always using the BS thread as your build thread... smh

 

I like @RustyGreen 's quote "...done is better than perfect..." and I am DONE! I finally finished the landscaping surrounding the new deck. Had a sprinkler zone issue that caused me to dig up the lines again in order to figure it out. Sprinklers are fixed, dirt replaced, Rose of Sharon bushes planted, weed barrier installed, and rocks moved.
Was:





Is:
Extended the deck and patio out 10 feet, moved the staircase, added a roof over half the deck.
Broc enjoying a bone on the grass.


I removed and restored all the river rock and added the 3 short retaining walls.


With the staircase moved, we gained another room with a view. Structure is steel, decking is Trex to avoid maintenance when I retire.


My wife designed most of the deck and picked out the furniture. Custom Decks built the deck and roof and 4u2 Concrete removed the old patio slab and installed the new slab and sidewalk.




She had friends over for breakfast and sat at the table overlooking the view and the flowers that are starting to bloom ...


... such as these Iris and pink Peonies that are about to burst.


Now I can sit back, relax and plan some adventures.

 

That looks like it was a lot of work.

Looks amazing, nice job.

 

NICE

 

A length of gas pipe, pressed flat on the end, slightly bent, and notched made a fairly passable valve removal tool. After struggling with the first one most of the day, I figured it out. Only broke one, doubt it could have been saved anyway. It takes just a minute as long as the valves are fully closed, or close. The open ones will most likely just be snapped off so I can release the guide clip. Lifters are sliding right out, so there is hope for the bottom end and the cam.


If this goes that far, I'll replace them with the non-mushroom tipped valves to make this less of a struggle for the next guy.

 

Very nice.

You, uh, need a roommate?

 

2nd & 3rd gens with aftermarket leaf springs, help me out...

Since this is Ol' Brett's new build thread, chime in on my thread >>> https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rackets-with-aftermarket-leaf-springs.858881/

 

I zip tied both cable sleeves up to the front with quality zip ties and did not unbolt one of the Deaver clamps to install the sleeve.

 

I did that to silence that coffee can of change going over speed bumps… but I want to stop any rubbing before it’s a problem.

 

But that removes material, therefore much lighter which is faster.

 

Supercharger added 90pounds and made the truck much faster.. so that’s not always true…

 

Timing gear. No rubbing brake cables anywhere to be found. In fact, this build, should it get that far, will have no e-brake. No Problem.
That's a big bastard. Distributor plugs into that massive slot. It does have a timing mark, I'll cross that bridge when needed.

Distributor/timing gear cover.

Someone else did that damage, the cover slid right off for me. Wondering what else there is, or if it's important.

Water pumps are prolly shot as well, one turns, the other moves. Filled both with WD-40 to see if they rejuvenate.
No idea how far this will go. The 59A block is a boat anchor imo with all the rust. The 8BA block might be the choice. Interwebs says that the old crank and cam will move to the new block. Order main bearings to fit the 8BA block, crank is the same except for extra oiling ports. Cams are the same, Crab dizzy will transfer over just fine since I have the cover and gear already.
That may have been the old mans plan, he's not here to ask.
Pricing parts, and I'm rounding up, I'm between $2200-$1600 just in parts, which isn't great, but not as bad as expected. (water pumps not included) No price yet on a hot tank, machining and what they would charge to install the cam bearings. I can worry the cam in myself. Crank and Pistons are not hard and the valves drop in more or less.
I rebuilt an International 345 V8 three decades ago and that came to $3200.00 with parts and machining.

 

This thread sucks.
Moved
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/t-bucket-build-or-rat-style-jalopy.858931/