TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You interested in selling that locker?
What type/brand is it?

 

Any particular reason why you chose Powertrax over TruTrac?

 

Powetrax noslip. Sure pm me.

Just newer component with potential ease of install just like my existing no slip and just familiarity of the brand. My no slip is pretty aggressive on loading and unloading due to the nature of my setup.

 

This code will pop up if the engine takes too long to reach operating temperature. With that 160 degree t-stat it puts that right on the limit. Cooler climates will see that happen more than warmer. Not sure what part of AZ you are in, but it is good info to have. Try not to go down a rabbit hole throwing parts at it. A 170 degree t-stat may be better if you keep having this code come up.

 

Currently have my supercharger off and thinking of replacing the front main seal while I’m in here..

Is the longer magnuson crank pulley bolt reusable or is it the stretch bolt type that needs to be replaced ?

 

I have re-used mine about 3-4 times now. If you feel uncomfortable it looks like a standard 10.9 grade bolt. Maye 12.9, can't remember off hand.

 

See my post here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...g-for-4-0l-1gr-fe.781648/page-6#post-28023139

I had the same issue when running the mishimoto 160 deg t stat. IIRC back then justdsm said it wasn't worth the hassle to try get the ECU to play nice with the colder t-stat via hptuners

 

Why go so cold on the thermostats?

it just opens at a lower temp, it doesn’t cause the rest of the system to cool any better.

Now, if your cooling system works so well that the thermostat is opening and closing a bunch then maybe you can run cooler, but the engine wasn’t designed to be the most efficient that way, is it?

 

Good info on the thermostats. I still have a couple pulleys to replace and a handfull of small coolant hoses (oil filter, throttle body) so I could easily swap that thermostat back out. I also need to vet my fan clutch and confirm its not just old and stuck on.

So who here is super annoyed at the fan shroud / fan combo pull engineering debacle? I find it so annoying. And the new CSF radiator has bolts that can pinch down the lower portion of the shroud... I'm really thinking about cutting that thing in half. Unbolt the top portion, set aside, leisurely unbolt the fan, maybe leave the bottom half on entirely while working. I am really considering seeing if this works. Worst case scenario, I try it and I have to replace the fan shroud. Hmmmm

 

I did the flex a lite fan conversion when I installed my cold case radiator a few years ago.. recently just integrated a higher quality pwm fan controller..

The oem fan shroud integrated coolant overflow was hideous and cumbersome. Installed a bpf cooling plate as well awhile back..

Newest addition to combat the 100*÷ weather lately. I find it pretty crazy to see IATs of 110*+ on a cold vehicle. Worst IAT lately was 165* from a bad air intake duct on a e63 AMG. Was easier to diagnose that, at least.

Plan on adding the aux fan to the existing flex a lite circuit and run by the mishimoto controller.

Also have some front crossmember shenanigans I need to finalize and weld up to re I nfoce the fan and protect the heat exchanger from the urd intake a bit better.

Also got a pair of these high articulation axles to test out..

Zzp high output pump..

Relocated ps reservoir and decided to just go full AN on the ps system.

Also got a new steering rack and did poly bushings while swapping.

Been busy lol also rebuily my entire upper end lower oil pan and front differential with poly bushings.. for another time. Can barely keep up with work and this thing.

Last pic is of ported tb and sc inlet ported to match. Varies around 90-100mm. Tuning got pretty spicy with injector duty cycles screaming. Fun stuff

 

Currently hitting 7/8 psi with 2.7 pulley@ sea level in low 10s on trd tune with water/meth.

Safe to throw a 2.6 pulley on to lean it out some? Should I skip the 2.6 and go smaller?