What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Speaking of blind bolts. The lower bolt for the A pillar ( to upgrade to a handle) is a pita to get in. I ended up using an expanding grommet as I threaded the screw. Much easier.

 

I used a bolt and a u-clip nut squeezed close in a vise, slide it on and it didn't move, worked great!!!
But Ya, bolts were a PIA...

 

Use it all the time, looks like their not available anymore...

 

Yeah that’s because they were losing guys left and right trying to install them in the first place. lol

 

I flew to california to test the dobinson MRR's again just recently (video not out yet), and if I were given the choice of the 6112 or the MRR for free, I'd take the 6112 any day of the week. The quality of the Dobinsons is good, but the base valving is terrible. With a tune, they could be good. I found the adjusters really have very little effect overall. They advertise a ton of "clicks" as if that means anything, but the actual adjustment range is pretty limited. The 10 click mid comp adjuster on the Kings has a WAY huger impact on ride than the dobinsons. I also tested the Dobinsons IMS, and they were awful as well. It's all down to the base tune that they use. They probably use the same shim stack in the IMS and MRR. Adjusters can only dial in a setup that's already like 90% there, but the dobinsons aren't even close. Bilstein is the only company that is actually changing their valving, shock lengths etc for every vehicle, and it shows. Honestly the 5100s ride as good or better than the MRR. Then you go to the 8112, and the performance isn't even on the same chart.

This is all based on offroad testing. On road, they are just as good as any other shock.

People get really fired up about it cuz dobinsons has a very loyal following, but so far, nothing I've tried from them lives up to the hype, other than their rear coils, which I do use on my own 22 tundra.

 

Got a smokin deal on a bak revolver x4s from @Tekniquetaco (thanks man!). Been looking forward to not seeing my previous vinyl tri-fold in the rear view flop around in the wind anymore!

 

Installed some Falken Rubitrek A/T 285/75/16 tires on my son’s TRD OR. Made a huge difference in the ride quality from the old Toyo R/T tires.

 

Appreciate it. Brief search shows that these ice chest A/Cs are pretty popular. Opposite, but need this more where I'm at!
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ccp-0y3iU40?si=ezmLDVOfp6Er6Suw

 

looks good if you ask me

 

Help.

Doing brakes front, a piston popped out. I got rubber seal back on, looks like little rubber is present between caliper and c clip ring - all around. Can you have a look at this, is it good or not? Brake fluid emptied on left driver front.

Ring popped off. Anyone knows the technique to get it on.

 

Got the RCI gas tank skid installed. Sleek and simple .

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2-gen-caliper-rebuild.753933/

not a lot of info there but there's some. I'd be more concerned about the lost brake fluid.

 

Attach a piece of 3/8 dia tygon tubing before flipping valve open. Surgically neat oil changes with the Fumoto valve.

 

Thank you C. I got it, almost perfect I'm sending it. Put caliper in vise and got better visibility and clip is on no squiggly. I'll use the suction tool to bleed this one brake for tonight, then do a better job on it tomorrow. Thank you.

 

Prototyped ARE lumber rack upgrade with heavy trucker 2in strap ratchets, U bolts and drilled steel backing plates for now. Will weld up on AL plate at a later date.

No more hanging by one arm while wrestling ratchet straps. Hernia and torn shoulder mandated a better system.

Not pretty but works well. Easier to reach and operate. Straps stored in truck. Can reach from ground.

 

I would say the rubber seal on the right is no good. The seal should look the same all the way around, like in the link from @BigTang.

Apply some grease to the grooves around the top of the piston and around the outside of the cylinder. (Don’t get grease inside the cylinder.) This should help the seal to pop into place, and help to waterproof seal. Once any water/corrosion gets past either groove and starts to corrode the wall of the piston or cylinder, the piston is likely to jam.

 

Yep - much better!

 

I almost grabbed that. I've been through 2 as the glue doesn't don't hold up in the hot AZ summer weather. I need to replace mine soon. They do look good though.

 

If I stay down in the valley I'll need one of those too, ha. Luckily there isn't humidity here.

 

I would but I got the flangeless valve as an attempt to give the skid the most clearance in case it gets dented in that area.