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That's what I'm saying.....

 

That's definitely a re-listing. I remember seeing it a month or so ago. Same pics. Can't remember the pricing before. I remember thinking it was pretty good.

 

Yup, shop rates is cray cray!

 

Making some serious chickens.

 

my little sisters door switches went out on her Honda, they quoted her $690 something, good old rock auto, and some HF panel tools and she was out less then $40 its wild sometimes how much the labor can add, and it wasn't even as bad as my Hyundai, which says you can just put a panel tool under the trim around the switched and it pops free... no you pull the door card, and remove like 15 or so screws to get it to come out. if you pull it like the service manual says you are going to destroy the door card.

now mind you the switches were oem honda in a shop. vs something likely from Indonesia

 

Pretty crazy huh?

Our car is in AZ with our kid. We needed a wheel bearing replaced, a cross threaded lug swapped that a previous shop hosed up, and the brakes checked. Super easy stuff to do at home. They rung us up for $2k and wanted to do another $2k in work.

Dead battery: $300+ installed when one at Costco is just over $100.

Two burnt out brake lights: $130+. They are a bit of a bitch on the Forester, so I can understand my kid not doing it, but FML. She was pissed when it only took them 20min.


Also, there are a few Toyota TSBs that have a bunch of extra / unnecessary work instructions. One is the spark plugs. Can't remember the other, but it is all total padding for shop $$$.

 

Had to pick my mom up from the dealer yesterday for a 60k required maintenance. 1100$ + tax. Fluids and filters only.

And my little bro was quoted 1800+ tax to replace his starter. Oem starter was 260$.
Did it ourselves in 30 minutes.


**But in all fairness I get it. Everyone needs to make a living and the price to live increases everyday.

 

what year and what bulbs in the forester? the 10-12 outback low beams are an absolute pain.

and I was a shop tech for years, there is some times a reason for that cost, there are other times where the "right way" to do it is much longer and finding a faster way to do it is the ticket. like the outback head lights i mentioned above, subaru says put the car on a lift remove the tire on the side needed, pull the whole fender liner and replace the bulb put it all back. replace all the plugs and install tire. or the faster way put the car on a lift, crank the tire into the body pull the screw from the corner of the bumper pull it away from the body clips, pull the liner back and stick your arm up in there. an hour for a single bulb is now like 10 min. heck with a lift i can do the both the CV axles in a Subaru in like 20min. vs the hour each side...

 

Jeeze, that better be every fluid in the car.

 

2014 Forester. There is just no place to really grab the housings and the catch that they used is stiff as a mofo for no good reason. It should be a guide pin instead. She was quoted 1.5hr and got the keys back in 20min. I know there is book time and such. This crap was robbery.

Thinking about it, a heavy suction cup might have helped a lot.

I did one of the rear bearings and the front LCAs in the past. You're right. Zero struggle there.

I did hate doing the rear two sparkplugs though. WTF, Subaru. They could have easily notched the structure for access.


BTDT with silly bulb and battery access. Absolutely shocked that was the method for headlights on a GMC Yukon. Did one of those for a friend's wife while he was out of town.

 

rear plugs, you can get away with a floor or pole jack and making the top bolt on the motor mounts loose to clear the frame, just jack the motor up a bit, some of the older ones i use to zip the bottom of the mount loose and use like a scissor jack in the frame between the block and the engine. just did it for my moms outback, and my friends WRX recently.

 

Close.

Coolant, trans and oil.

 

Thanks!

That was the reccy after I complained about it to another Subbie tech, or grabbing that special tool setup that is out there. Jacking is definitely my favorite route, esp now that we have two Foresters to mess with.

Actually, just jacked the engine on the Taco to ease the trans installation.

 

When it’s all hanging right before I separate it I put a block and jack underneath the crank pulley so it doesn’t move. Holds it good enough that sometimes stabbing it back together it goes clunk the first try and I think something is fucked up because it went too easy.

 

Ha! The last two times without jacking, it was a fucking nightmare. Shoving, wiggling, bolts in, bolts out, and back in again. When it finally went, it was like why didn't you do that on the first eight tries?

On the 3rd Gen, I couldn't get to anything more substantial than the oil filter housing. Needless to say: * <-- puckered starfish. And of course, the nose just slid on in like butter. I did feel the same way, like the input shaft might have found a new home inside the trans.


2,000mi in and still happiness though.

 

Mine. Slee passenger arb mount with no hardware. $70 OBO just want it gone.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/slee-passenger-arb-mount.854461/#post-30567774

 

Not mine Bilstiens not sure what year

 

Doing some contract work with my old employer and their shop rate is $230 an hour.

 

Did the same thing when I started looking at recent sales orders.