Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

Not really related to this thread but have you replaced your intermediate steering shaft? Or even look up the zip tie mod

 

Turned out to be my 7-ish year old poly leaf spring bushings, and partially my Dakar leaf springs.

New Dobinson Springs and poly bushings and all is silent again.

Crazy how it transmitted the noise up front.

 

First, thank you to OP for putting this together. I used this guide to replace the cab-mount bushings on my 2nd gen, and it was a very helpful starting point. I wanted to add a more comprehensive list of things to disconnect before lifting the cab from the frame, and a few helpful tips.

*On double-cab (4-door) models, the rear cab-mount bolts are accessible without removing the rear seats or storage bins. Reach down on each corner and you will notice the carpet is pre-cut to allow you to fold it back to access the bolts.

Starting out, 99% of what you will need to loosen and check are hidden behind the rubber protectors on each side of the engine that go between the body and frame. Remove those flaps first so you can see and get to everything. Make sure you have new clips, the old ones are heat-baked and will not survive the removal process.

Once you have the rubber protectors removed:

1) Un-clip front ABS sensor connectors

2) Loosen both bolts on the steering linkage where it passes by the frame behind the drivers front wheel. Mark the shaft in case it comes out, so you can re-align.

3) Remove the bolts holding the front brake lines to the frame on both sides, and then un-clip the lines from the brackets mounted to the fender on the inside of the engine bay.

4) Remove the bolt securing power steering line to the frame on passenger side next to radiator.

5) Remove both 10mm nuts for evap line clamps that bolt in from the drivers fender well.

6) Loosen radiator shroud from radiator completely, but leave in.

7) Disconnect harness on passenger side of engine bay for SAIS, there is another connector there too, disconnect that one as well.

8) Loosen harness from both sides of the middle of the frame. There are connectors and brackets that hold it in place, you don't have to disconnect the harness, just loosen from the frame to provide slack.

9) If you have an aftermarket intake with a rigid intake-pipe from the throttle body to the air-filter, remove the pipe. It will not flex when you lift the cab like a stock intake box.

10) Make sure you at least have new nuts (they are one time use), and new rear bolts for your replacement mounts. The rear bolts tend to be the toughest to remove and I had to use an air-hammer to remove mine because they were seized to the inner sleeve of the bushing.

11) If you're using poly-bushings, like energy suspension, make sure to lubricate all of the contact surfaces with the appropriate grease. I used the energy suspension grease on mine. It did not come with the bushing kit, heads-up.

Other than that, the most helpful tool I had was a long-handled, ratcheting, 14mm closed-end wrench. It made removing the 14mm bolts that secure each mount much easier.

Good luck to all, it's really not that tough of a job, just take your time and make sure you've loosened everything before you start lifting the cab.

 

Thanks for that comprehensive list! I didn't know any better, so I didn't loosen or disconnect anything other than the mounts. I do wish I had grease them. They still make noise to this day.

 

im getting ready to do this in a couple weeks. Thanks for the tips!

 

You could probably remedy 90% of that by loosening the bushing bolts again, lifting the cab an inch, and using something thin and rigid to apply the grease between the bushings and the washers. You wouldn't need to remove them, but you would be doing all the disconnecting, again.

 

It's not bad enough to go through the effort.

 

Welp i stripped the inside front bolt on the driver side. Now i need to do a CMR. Didnt even attempt the rear

 

Did you get the bolt out? Sawzall and vive grips, maybe? Seems easier than relocating the cab mounts.

 

I did not. I put it back together and started to make a plan with a friend who has a lift.

To install the DRT front relocated cab mount, i still need a sawzall. Or better yet, a plasma cutter.

 

Sawzall is actually easier in my opinion

 

Damn, that's rough. Bummed to read this, today. Couple of things, did you use penetrating oil? If not, go back and hit all the bolts with penetrating oil (Kroil is my go-to) and let it soak in for a day. Better yet, hit multiple times over a couple of days for the ones you haven't attempted yet. For the one you have stripped, I assume you rounded off the head. For this bolt, I don't know if I'd jump all the way to a relocation kit before I used a torch. The bottom of the mount is like an open mouth, you can see up into it and only need to heat the area around the welded in nut to break the seize between it and the bolt. Heat the nut using a plumbing torch, and grip the head with a pair of vice-grips, work the bolt back and forth until it breaks free, and you should be good. The other option is use a reverse threaded drill bit, and drill straight through the bottom of the mount and then into the seized bolt, then just re-tap it, once it's drilled out.

Also, maybe post a pic of the messed up bolt, there could be better ways to remove it.

 

Ive been soaking the bolts in pb blaster for a few days. I had the cab jacked up, but couldn't get my wrench in a good position. Maybe i need a better 6 point wrench.

Also used Mapp gas and even melted the bushing a bit. I might need to try vice grips, or just use this as an excuse to buy another tool -sawzall.



not much left to my front cab mounts. They have been cut and open for 6 years since I got a new frame in 2019.

 

Oil, heat, beat, repeat. X 100

It took me a week of daily abuse, torching the shit out of the sleeve and the bushings, before I finally got my rear bolts loose by using the bolt itself as a jack point and the weight of the truck. It was sketchy.

Edit:
I also ran the air hammer on the top and bottom of the bolt after the oil and heat cycles in an effort to break up any rust and encourage the oil to find new cracks to seap into.

Time and patience. It'll come loose.

 

I have the DRT kit already. Just need a sawzall. Hopefully the rears are easier

but maybe ill try again