P0430 code after new fuel pump.

Here we go again boys. Ive hit the lottery of bad luck, or each thing i fix, makes another poor part die.

2005 trd or manual 75k miles!!!!!!

The only check engine light this truck ever had in 20 years was the p0500 Code. When i got the truck, i sent the dash out and had it fixed.

With in the week of it being reinstalled, I got aPxxx 2x (the lean codes in both bank 1 and 2). I ended up checking fuel pressure, pump was bad, replaced pump. Code gone. All good for 1 or 3 weeks? My only other thread actually has the date lol

Now I have a P0430 code for poor cat performance. Driver side rear 02.

Im going to check temps, and check for leaks.

Also the voltages were the same in freeze data for left and right cats 02.....I'll get a pic then but I forgot to take one. only driver side was inefficient though.

From what I've gathered, colder before cat than after for temps. Check for leak at the flange. Then check ohms of the current 02....

Anyone know the ohm reading, or the happy range of the 02 voltage so I can watch live data? Or another test to help narrow down if it's really a bad cat at 75k miles?

Thanks.

 

if the rear cat monitor sensor is switching rapidly & large swings like the front 02 sensor, your cat is done....

02 is suppose to swing while cat monitor is more steady on a properly functioning efficient cat.

 

Okay I'll check for that tomorrow, I really hope the cats not smoked at 75k even if it's 20 years old

 

Lean runs hot, so it may have reduced the life on the cats, but usually they over heat from overfuelling.

It's hard to say, but they are likely on their way out.

Best solution is run it hard. Clear them out with the new fuel pump and fresh fuel.

 

Like try cataclean orsomething first before a new 02 or cat

 

75k is pretty early, I rarely see them fail on anything before 100k.
Alot of factors to converter life, anytime the engine isn't running properly will shorten their life especially driving around with a misfire or a severe lean/rich condition. Coolant, oil, and certain fuel additives can kill them over time too.

To determine how they are functioning you want to graph the upstream (AFR) and downstream (O2) sensors, upstreams should be right around 3.3v and fluctuate pretty rapidly +/- 100 mv or so steady throttle. Downstreams should be pretty steady in the 600-800mv (0.6-0.8v) range, if the downstreams are switching pretty fast like the upstreams after it's fully warmed up the cats are probably dead.

Very rare that a bad O2 sensor causes cat codes but I have seen it once or twice.

 

For reference this is what scan data with good cats look like.

Cold start and idle.




Driving steady speed on a somewhat hilly road.

 

Man was i hoping you'd chime in again haha. I can only do 2 at a time with my shitty scanner, so I'll do the driver side then passenger and compare against what was stated.

Assuming it's the cats, have you had any luck with aftermarket?. The oem ones hurt....

 

Honestly with that age of vehicle if you don't have emissions inspections and if the cats are still marginal I'd just put some spacers under the downstream O2 sensors and run it.

Aftermarket cats are always a crapshoot, they are typically just good enough to satisfy the cat monitor and may or may not last. Older vehicles weren't as picky but we're finding that alot of the newer ones like 2015+ aftermarket cats won't satisfy the monitor, even name brand ones like Magnaflow.

 

Where im at in pa they do have emissions, but i was thinking about trying the spacer method as well anyways. Im assuming they just fail it if they see it/catch it lol.

 

I don't know if toyota has this, but ford does...
mode 6 data has a PID called O2 saturation %, those #s & listed specs in itself is huge indicator if the cat is end of its life & no longer efficient...

 

Depends what kind of inspection they do, if they just plug in and check that there are no codes and that the monitors have all ran they probably wouldn't catch it but if it's a visual and/or tailpipe "sniffer" check it would almost certainly fail.

Occasionally people list good take-off cats on the marketplace if they put headers on.

Salvage yards as far as I'm aware aren't allowed to sell used converters otherwise that would be agood option.

In any caae maybe you will get lucky and you just need to go run it good and hard to wake them up since it was running so poorly before.

 

So the afr and 02 voltages are pretty tame at idle. But when Im driving around easy. They go wild. If I give it good solid gas, they seem to all stay happy. But anything besides nothing, or all of it and the secondary 02s are bouncing around from .013 to .9 ish

 

Not sure what's going on in the first picture, that looks like garbage.

The 2nd two kind of look like a failing converter but it's hard to tell for sure without context of the timebase shown on the screen.

You can see where the decel fuel cut occurs the upstream and downstream sensors look like they go lean at nearly the exact same time and the downstream recovers almost immediately when the fuel comes back, this typically indicates the converter is no longer functioning as it should but again without context of time on the screen it's hard to tell.

With a good functioning cat there should be a delay of at least a second or 2 between changes in upstream vs downstream like when a decel fuel cut occurs and also the downstream sensor voltage should be pretty steady at a steady throttle.




This is taken from a Ford but is a pretty good example of a failing cat on bank 1 (top) and a decently functioning one on bank 2 (bottom), note that Ford displays a current value for their upstream sensors rather than voltage. 0mA is 14.7 AFR, positive values are lean and negative values are rich.

 

I guess context would definitely help. I was driving at like 40 mph on a semi open road with red lights. So in the 2nd 2 pictures I was off throttle then went back to cruising at about 45. I'll get one today on the highway with no stop and go. Just 60mph cruise

The first picture was steady cruise at about 30 mph or so. And yeah it looks terrible haha

 

This was steady at 70mph

 

That looks good, honestly I'd drive it for a while if your not up for needing to pass emissions just yet and see what happens. You might get lucky and it was just kinda gunked up from running poorly.

 

Correct....

 

Im going to let it brew and run it for a few weeks. My emssions is due in July, so I have a month.

As for the fowler route, my buddy told me his s2k failed with one locally to me, but passed else where. So it seems like it's a 5050 if the tech checks for it in pa where I am. Or they dont care. So I will drive and pray for a month. If not......

Am I better off going oem old stock from a Toyota parts place like I did for my fuel pump.

Or is magna flow a better option possibly? I see they pop in here from time to time and reccomend their cats, and they are same price as oem. I just dont wanna get burned if I fork out the 1-2k depending if I do both sides down the road.

My guess is go oem like my fuel pump and hope they are good.

 

Oh, and one just for fun because i just finished. Here she is after a 3k lift i finished 5 days ago. im gonna keep this truck till I die. Idc what it ends up needing.

I did icon rear rxt rear leafs with 5160s, and the achrive garage u bolt flip option 3. In the front i did jba ucas, 2885's, 5100's, and wheelers super bumps. And i extend the rear brake lines.

I have shims and carrier drop on stand by.

Oh and the C4 hybrid bumper with full hoop will be here in a few weeks.