Any woodworkers?

I made my router sled from MDF and recently made a height extension insert for it so i could mill down a couple of logs to fit in my bandsaw.

There's no need for a plunge router. I use a $100 Ryobi router and a $30 1¼ bit. It's a little slower than using a larger bit but it works for me.

Using a router sled does create quite the mess so you'd wanna have a shop vac or dust collector set up. Im still seeking the best solution for the height insert I made.

Let me know if you all have any questions or wanna see photos.

 

Let's see some photos. I'm going to make one when I get my shop set up. I have some melamine particle board set aside. I think a router should slide rather easily on that.

 

I would definitely stick to the MDF as you want the slight friction. As the bit travels through the wood you don't want your router sliding all over the place. You want to be in control of that.

 

This is my original router sled made from a 2x4 foot piece of 1/2 inch MDF for the box and 3/4 MDF for the sled. The sled is made for the width of my router so your measurements may vary. The sides are 2 inches high and based on the sled and router is great for flattening things like cutting boards.



My current bandsaw has a cutting height of 4 5/8 inch so when I got some over 6 inch thick Hickory, I needed to make an extension for my sled to mill down the Hickory to be able to resaw it with my bandsaw
I made a box from 1x8s and inserted it into the original box. I then had to add 3/4 strips to the top edge of the 1x8s on the long sides to make up the width difference for the sled.



The height insert is just friction fit and 100% removable for storage.




One of my failed attempts at dust collection.




I painted one end of the box and dthe insert so I knew which way they went back together the nest time I used it. Also, the reason for the insert.



I set this thing up on a pair of saw horses for easy storage when not in use. This piece of Hickory is ready to be ran through the bandsaw (which also required some modifications)

 

The correct number of clamps is <N + 10>.

 

Are you using wood glue or hot glue to attach the frame?

 

Neither actually.. I've just screwed the 2x4 pieces together tightly around the board, being mindful to not put any screws where the planer blades could get. I've always made the leading edge the length of the board and plus the width of the side boards. this will also reduce or eliminate the planer snipe on the cutting board.

I never really thought about hot glue, but it could be worth a try. If you wood glue it, it may get stuck to the board, but some painters tape would solve that issue too.

 

I’ve got a cutting board glued up that I’d like to make an end grain out of, just trying to figure out the best way to do it!

 

Just finished up the last project before the move to Tennessee, a cutting board for a friend's charity auction this fall. Ash, walnut, sapeli.

 

The easiest way is to cut it into strips the short way, turn the strips on their side so the end grain is up and down and then glue them all back together. How thick is the current board? What is the length and width? What wood(s)?

Make sure it's flat in it's current form.
Make sure the blade on your saw is square to the table.
Make sure you have enough clamps to glue it back together and keep it flat and square.
Titebond III (the green label) is the shortest working time, but the best for cutting boards as it dries waterproof.

 

Nicely done! What finish have you got on there?

 

Thank you sir!

Howard's cutting board oil followed by Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner. Going to get a bottle of the last to go with the board.

When we get to TN I may try and make my own. I want to do more boards and think it would be good to include it with the purchase.

 

10.5” x 16”, 1.75” thick, maple walnut cherry. I may need more clamps for this one.

 

I've been using Walrus Oil Cutting Board Oil and their Cutting Board Wax ... last week I noticed that Walmart is carrying their Cutting Board Oil so that's more convenient for me. I know Walrus Oil sells little bottles of their stuff to give with the boards and I think that's a great idea.

 

So quick question while in here. A neighbor suggested that I find a way mark the boards (or whatever else I might make) with name or a shop name, especially if I want to start selling.

Thoughts? If you've done this, did you do initials or a logo?

 

@wilcam47 does this

 

I have seen their smaller bottles. I was not aware Walmart carried it. I'll have to look into it. Once we're moved.

 

To keep it simple, you can cut your strips into 1.75" and when you flip the pieces to the side the board will end up being roughly the same thickness - should be 6 strips at that width, minus the saw blade width of course.

 

I haven't seen the tiny bottles at the Walmart, but they have them on their website.

 

If you intend on making more, and possibly doing other things, it's probably best to do a logo.