1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

No, you can just change where the pins go in the harness if you need to. Or you can split the splice about 10" up the harness from the factory ECU plug, and then a few settings will need changed in the ECU. Its pretty simple. But if Gabe left yours where it's still running semi sequential injection, which is likely, the tune will need some tweaking. Full sequential wastes less fuel than semi sequential.

 

Does anyone know where I can send injectors to get a dead time test?

I'm sure I could DIY but probably not worth the cost and effort for 1 set of 6

 

I haven't found anyone with the machine to catalog that, unfortunately the best I can usually get is the total flow @3 bar @ 14.4v. We usually start with rough numbers for the type of injector (Bosch pico, mini, etc or Denso skinny, large body...) then tweak from there using the method HP Academy teaches. Even with a great datasheet this is still usually a required step unfortunately.

 

hmm. I mean anyone who can do flow tests can theoretically also do a dead time test using the regression method (maybe that's the one you're talking about). I just don't have a way of easily holding/feeding an injector; I could scrap together everything else fairly quickly

 

Like I said, even if you got the information you'd have to tweak it yourself anyway on the vehicle. It's a known PITA variable, it's really only the non-linear section of the pulse widths that needs accurate characterization which typically is the area under 2ms. The rest is going to behave pretty linear so if you can dial in your setup well at idle on multiple voltages (IE full load of heater blower, AC clutch, headlights and brights... etc and maybe if you wanna be super anal without the alternator running too....) then you're gonna cover most of the usable range better than most and like most things STFT will make up the rest. Another reason why it is good to have everything else dialed in close by hand beforehand so you're only relying on trimming to do trimming jobs not relying on it to tune your whole truck.

 

Otherwise this guy did an excellent job of wasting his own time scientifically at least...
Calculating deadtimes with a Link G4+ and injector test bench

But I'd guarantee it still behaved differently on the vehicle if for no reason other than the ECUs read voltage might be different from v-droop compared to what the injector +12v rail is seeing

 

Oil Pressure Sensor


Has anyone here installed an oil pressure sensor and run it off the haltech can gauge?
And if so where did you tap into the block for the sensor?
And what sensor did you use?

I know haltech makes a universal fuel/oil gauge that goes to 150 psi

 

Yeah installed one on a 3RZ, same principal applies. Use the stock oil pressure sensor hole, unscrew it and screw in a 1/8npt brass street tee and screw your new sensor in the other port. I just used a 0-100psi sensor from low dollar Motorsports, but since I now know they can get over 100psi on cold starts I'd use this 0-150 in the future

https://lowdoller-motorsports.com/c...products/copy-of-0-100-psi-5v-pressure-sensor

 

Also technically the stock oil pressure sensor hole is a 1/8bspt but like zero sensors exist for that thread minus the stock ones. So if you'd rather use the right fittings you can order this...

$13 Stainless Steel 1/8 BSPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee to 1/8 NPT adapter Adding for Turbo oil Supply Line and Oil Pressure Gauge

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Pr...E0LTVS3&gPromoCode=18226656654608789705&gQT=1

 

Perfect, thx for this information

 

I'd just like to confirm mine are ballpark and not part of my fuel econ issue. I'm probably going to start tearing down the top end again to see if I can't get to the bottom of this (heh)

 

You and I have the same injectors.... You could run my dead times ... But I'll warn you you'll have to fully retune your fuel map

 

Ever changed your dead time numbers just for fun? There's a pretty big difference between the dead time numbers you have and the dead time numbers we typically use for those injectors. It affects the overall output pulsewidth a lot, so naturally you'll have to change your base map quite a bit. Especially in lower parts of the map because as stated before low pulse width is nonlinear behavior

 

just a follow up, you asked where the heads were leaking,
I got new heads and ARP studs installed,
1) The drivers side head was leaking in between the block and head by firewall.
2) The passenger heads was leaking at the top seam by the intake in two places. Very small leaks.
3) The coolant pipe was leaking at the junction, was easy fix with gasket maker and wire brush on the drill for cleaning.

The ARP I torqued to 75 pounds each compared to the 25 pounds that the stock bolts call for,
So hopefully this will eliminate any more head gasket leaks and used the copper spray on the head gaskets.
Got the heads and ARP from yota1 performance ,
I gain 1.5 pounds of boost with the new heads heads and compression when from 150psi to 180psi per cylinder give or take.
10,000 miles later running great










and yes I know my radiator hose is on backwards haha

 

Only way I know of is to DIY it. Switch from sequential injection to batch and see if you're still injecting the same amount of fuel. In sequential your injector is firing once per engine revolution. Batch it's firing twice per revolution, half the fuel each phase. So batch fire you have the injector dead times twice. Do the math from there.

 

Do you have a guide you can point me to? I'm not 100% following...

 

I don't have a guide. I'll try to explain it better. I've not had to do this myself yet, but this is the overall concept...

With sequential injection, each fuel injector fires once every 720 degrees (because 720 degrees is one complete engine revolution).

With batch fire injection, each fuel injector fires twice, every 360 degrees. Each time the injector fires, it's firing half the required fuel each time. So the dead time is coming into play twice as often during each engine revolution.

Ideally if your dead times are spot on, the fueling between sequential and batch should stay pretty close. If dead time is set too high it should go richer when switching over to batch injection. If dead time is set too low, it should go leaner when switching to batch. Keep messing with it until your fueling doesn't change when going between sequential and batch.

 

I wonder how much is lost between pulses though...