Let's see your FJ case swap

Good evening Tacoma World:
A few years back I FJ cased my 2nd gen (2006 6 Speed) but left the set up with the stock style J-shifter. One of the best mods ever!
That process had me pull the front of the case off leaving the gear set all attached to the rear of the case. (to swap out the Taco's Planetary gear parts)

New project is a 3UZ engine swap... With that i'm changing transmissions to the R151F transmission (5 Speed), and this time, I am going to do a Twin Stick mod, and it is on a slightly different Tcase, this one is the VF2 top-shift. I am going to use the FrontRange Off road Twin-Sticks. Their instructions have the back of the case come off, to get the Pill out. further it says "carefully remove the shift rail".... but I can barely get a thin punch on a side of the roll pin.

Has anyone been successful with removing the roll pin, so as to slide the shift rail out?
Even if I were able to get it punched out, how would I be able to get the pin back into the hole for re-assembly? I'm not keen on the idea of stuffing soaked rags behind and it as is now and trying to grind off the lil foot nub.

I think the best bet may be to put it back together now, and then pull the front snout and 4x flange off, and then re-split it but this time leaving the guts on the back side of the case (like a few years ago's experience went) and the shift rails should be then out in the open...

Thoughts?, thanks-

 

The “fast” way to do it can cause major issues if you foul it up. The tried and true, albeit longer way is to remove position sensors, remove front flange, remove drivers side spring and ball detent, and pull the case apart and leave guts of the case in the back half. Pull the whole hi/lo shift rail out and then knock the shift fork roll pin out with the rail outside of the case.

just don’t lose the shift synchro keys when you pull the case apart! And note their orientation they won’t go back in one way, otherwise you won’t be shifting very smooth!

 

Thank you Jeff!
I had a bad feeling thinking about trying to get a cut off wheel in the shift hole...
I will re-assemble tonight and take the front half off.

I'm doing my best not to move the gear sets in any way... last thing I want to do is have any/the synchro's fall out.

 

Please, please, please do a swap/build thread on and let us know where it is. Thanks!!

 

Funny you posted this. Im working on the same 3uz swap haha. Im going with the r156f transmission though.

 

My above post applies to you and all other 3UZ, 2UZ and 1UR V8 swaps!

 

Take the case apart in 2HI to try avoid the synchro keys falling out.

 

Sweet, lets collaborate

I was on Ebay and came across a R151F (just rebuilt by Nick at Yota1Performance -apparently they put in a lower first and second gear for a project that didn't come to fruition) and the guy sold it to me for what the rebuild cost, and no Core cost ($1,000 score).

 

@DesertRatliff I was going to do something..... I may just go back to my original post in TacomaWorld https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...tional-cost-to-expect-from-the-dealer.546565/
And modify that one (pun intended) to my UZ build page....

 

I like the simplicity of swapping in my fj case since its already mated up to my 6 speed. Plus I'll use the factory crossmember as my starting point for locating everything.

 

Tonight went overall well: Had to review some images from March of 2022 on my first ever case split.... that was helpful...

So question is (for hopefully knowledge ONLY)- where are the 3 magic Synchros currently sitting; in the back Guts, or in the Front cases's gear set?
I've yet to see them, and i've been looking in and around before all moves.


Shift rail extraction from there was a breeze

 

I wanted to also utilize my 6 speed RA60F transmission, but I have not been successful finding anyone that makes an adaptor to mate it up to a 1, 2 or 3 UZ engine. (outside of possibly Kelvin - CarTune Company out of NewZeland)

What UZ & bell housing are you using?

 

Yeah plus the R15 series trans are more proven out. A little more inconvenient but it is what it is.

3UZ from 05-10 as those vehicles use CAN communication. I wanted to go 2uz initially but the iron block is about 180lbs heavier. I havent found my donor vehicle yet. Either LS430 or GS. Whatever I can find first. The bell housing from the auto will work fine for the XAT adaptor. I do like northwest toys adapter bellhousing for the r150 trans as it uses oem parts and a clutch fork. I don't like the hydraulic TOB.

 

they lurk inside the front clutch sleeve

 

Another good night here:

So if i've learned (?), as long as the (right side, passenger side) shift rail is not moved from starting position, all things "should be okay"...
I think that keeping the detent ball/spring in place (on each side of the rear case) is *super helpful* to keep the rails in place, thus avoiding the synchro drop issue.


Nub is removed as best as I can tell it is supposed to be (?)... and back home.