MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

If you do some reading here, you will see that many folks have had air bubble issues. I have done several ADMs myself and have had mixed results. Sometimes all the air gets bled, sometimes there is a bit that won't come out. Either way, the system self bleeds with zero issues and comes back to the same feeling in a few drives.

If folks can shift with no drag, there is nothing to worry about. There appears to be a lot of throw past full disengagement.


For myself with the less than pleasant access even to the bleed nipple, I'd rather just drive out. Much more fun that way.

 

Hey guys, I've had Firn's disk sitting in my garage, trying to get all my ducks in a row so I can do the ADM.

For clamping the brake fluid hose, is it the one that is for the clutch or the ones for the brakes? From the Youtube video I saw the guy clamps only the big reservoir.


Thanks in advance!

 

Since you have a TRD OR, yours has a remote mounted reservoir that serves the clutch directly, instead of a hose tapping the brake reservoir. Only TRD Sports have the setup you showed in the YouTube video.

so clamp the one for the clutch. In the video you linked, he clamped the one for the clutch in that application, which is not applicable in your case.

 

Awesome! Thank you for the info, really appreciate your reply.

 

I had a new clutch installed some months ago. I went with the uniclutch, a twin disc setup. It felt great at first, but over time it has developed a serious shudder on takeoff if I ease the pedal out slowly. I can't seem to get a feel for the engagement point on take off. It seems inconsistent.

I bought one of the ADM discs off ebay. Does simply reducing the volume of fluid in the accumulator make that much difference, or should I reverse the disc and use a dremmel?

I'm still trying to wrap my brain around this mod. If the fluid doesn't compress, then it doesn't seem like the accumulator should make much difference. Obviously it does. Because some engineer put a bunch of time into developing it.

 

This has been considered many times in this thread. Compressible fluid or not, restricting flow in hydraulic systems is a thing.

The disk or dremel versions do the exact same thing: Gets rid of the restriction on the engagement stroke.


Similar to brakes, a studder in a clutch would be due either to warped parts or uneven friction material transfer. Give a bit of slip to try to clean up the FW, drive plate, and PP surfaces. If the studder goes away for a short time, then you have a setup that needs a bit more slip from time to time.

Race parts on DDs can be like that.

 

Let's fly!

 

Indeed

 

And sadly, all lift creates drag and pitching moment. We can never have nice things.


BTW, my oldest's BF just got his hours in and a job on a region airline. He finally took her up for a spin around Mesa.

 

You edited after you Ural loving bastage!!!

If your oldest's BF waited til commercial to get her for a spin, then he's already had his spin *so to speak* (sorry to openly spit it out)...dad!

First real date with my wife, took her for touch and goes then a spin around Niagra Falls. Good way to eliminate the competition eh

 

Hahaha! The Edit button is my best friend.


I can't blame him. Rental costs are insane these days.


They have definitely went for many spins.

 

Flies, fucks or floats...cheaper to rent.

I'll see myself out now lol

 

Yup. Truer words . . .

 

Is this principle not exclusively limited to compressible fluids/

Like air.

Not like brake fluid.

 

No

 

I believe this as while installing a spec clutch lately, we bleed the system pretty well with 2 of us, but the pedal did improve just slightly in the next 24 hrs.

I am curious thou, what makes this system be self bleeding? it would seem to me since the clutch hydraulic line has a high point from both CM and slave, where air could be trapped.
obviously that assumption must be wrong, just curious how

 

I think it’s sort of like a syringe, because the slave cylinder pushrod gets pushed back and forth. I think any air that gets in there can get pushed up and out through the main line by the clutch returning.

I do know for sure that as the clutch wears and the fingers extend outward, the slave cylinder pushrod gets pushed further and further inward, lessening the amount of fluid in the slave. That means the reservoir is slowly gaining fluid over time. That process alone could help self-bleed the system.

 

Nothing to add except that this has been (and remains) one of my top three favorite fixes on this truck. I say fix because this thing should have never existed. Nothing like making a seasoned manual driver rethink whether they forgot how to drive a manual.

 

I see the disc available on Amazon. From what I’ve read on here you have to grind off the nipple to make a better fit. They seem to be everywhere I’m not sure how to buy it from the person who made it first