HELP Clutch Bleed for MT Accumulator Delete

Did the MT accumulator delete over the weekend and had some troubles bleeding the clutch. I couldn’t get one of the fittings loose on the accumulator so the system dripped dry. Finally got it off and swapped in the S2000 line (can’t remember the brand/link). Bled the clutch using a Motion check valve speed bleeder but the clutch pedal still has a lot of play before it engages. I am able to drive the truck, the pedal just has a deadzone before it has resistance. It still actuates the clutch. Is this normal or do I still have air in the lines? I’ve bled clutch systems before, just in Subarus, never a truck. I have a video of the pedal deadzone I will try to upload.

 

To upload a video, you have to put it on YouTube and copy the link here

 

You still have air in the lines, but it will work itself out on its own. I have never bled the clutch and there not still been some air when done. It doesn’t bleed quite the same as brakes due to the slave cylinder design. I would just drive it and monitor, I bet within the day or maybe tomorrow it is back to normal.

 

Link to the video
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Q09H5ers9w0

 

Also you should spray some lubricant (white lithium grease for example) on the pivot points of the pedal. Some have reported the pedal breaking after it started to squeak badly.

 

Yes I definitely need to add some grease, humidity seems to affect the amount it squeaks

 

I am curious what you mean by different. Just because it uses a slave cylinder? On Subaru's you have access to bleed both slave cylinder and master cylinder but I can't find anything about bleeding the master on a Tacoma. Other than bench bleeds when swapping in a new one.

I will take your advice and let it try and settle another day or so. Parked it on a slope to help get air to bubble out.

 

It's different because the slave cylinder has a spring in it and depending on clutch wear, the pressure plate fingers extend out more with more clutch wear which pushes the piston in the slave cylinder back into it, kind of like a syringe. I don't know exactly why but for me, bleeding the 2 man method, or gravity bleeding, or even vacuum bleeding simply never gets the air out for me. The pedal always feels extra light and airy for around a day until the air works itself out with driving. I've opened up the clutch hydraulics 6 or 7 times by now, so I have repeatable results, and it has been like this every single time. You should be fine soon.

You don't need to do anything resembling bench bleeding either component.