1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Where would it go

 

Evaporated, sucked into the other cylinders

 

Maybe you get some fluctuation between batch and sequential even if dead times are spot on, but idea is to minimize the fluctuation. That’s the idea anyway. I’ll be giving this a go when I get back home in a couple weeks.

 

Quick question for those that are playing with timing numbers.

1) how much timing are you guys adding with haltech over stock? If any? I’m at 16 on my map before ping
2) what timing numbers are you running?
3) about how much TQ-HP are added per degree added? with 92 octane.
4) IF you ran 100 octane or higher than 92 octane or e85 how much timing can be added safely? If one setup multiple maps with the haltech.

 

If you read back in this thread, there's some discussions about stock timing. It's sort of unknown due to the strategy of the OEM computer.

 

It's very dependent on the conditions of the day, the OE computer in closed loop in an NA environment wants to run as much timing as it possibly can at any given moment without ping. When it hits light ping it logs that in short term backs down a little bit and counts back up a half degree at a time until it is close but below that recorded ping threshold. Usually within 1-2*. It's a good strategy with NA really, it is always creating a safeish long term spark map that it quick references to over the stock very safe map and then it short terms the last little bit on top and is very reactionary. But with forced induction comes dramatically increased engine noise and the stock knock sensor type (resonant) and logic circuitry doesn't really deal with that well and ends up counting it as knock more often than not and backing timing way down. So trying to get a picture of stock timing map gets even murkier.

I tried to graph the stock timing map long ago as well...Even had a whole spreadsheet designed to turn it into a Load/RPM map that would average thousands of datapoints to draw the map. But ultimately decided it was a pointless endeavor after looking at a scatter plot of the same data and analyzing outliers and the conditions that they occurred in. Really you can pretty quickly find the thresholds on the dyno with steady state tuning and from there turn it down for a street safe tune and that's the smarter choice.

1st Gen Timing Map Extrapolation

 

Ah I forgot about that post

 

50/50 I'm going to be stripping the top end of my engine down to the heads again since I know at least my valve shims need adjustment, and cam timing might as well, so I figure just take the heads off completely to make shim replacement easier and put in head studs. Might even do a timing belt job too since it's never been done (or at least not since I bought it 60k+ miles ago)

At this stage I would also like to throw in the LCE dual springs (with supporting mods), but my question is, is it really worth the extra $1000 to get their SS valves and buckets? I'm thinking no, but curious if anyone has thoughts on pros/cons

 

Have you considered dropping in the 3VZFE (from 3.0 Camry) camshafts with its stock valve springs and buckets?

 

Hey same haha. Finally found the limit of my stock 95-97 composite headgaskets... apparently its two years of 15ish PSI with repeated reckless abandon. Also it only popped to coolant on cyl 4 so not bad overall really for 30yr old gaskets. New MLS units and some ARPs and she'll be minty again. I'm not using the LCE springs though, using the Camry ones, they're stiffer and will support RPM well beyond (Camry had a 6800RPM redline) what the stock cam profile and intake are good for. I would say that unless you have a lot more planned in the performance department, on the scale of different intake and extensive porting that the valves (unless oversized) and buckets aren't a concern for ya.

 

I was not aware that was a plug and play operation. Is there a write-up on it?

 

3VZ-FE (not 3VZ-E) is architecturally the same as the 5VZ. Cams are a drop in (still gotta shim em) and springs are as well. Obviously it is geared toward performance in the upper RPM band, so you'll lose some amt down low. Also the 3VZ-FE camry and ES300 were only made for 1.5 model years so finding one to steal parts from is a feat in and of itself.

 

Guess I could just buy these and remove what I need? https://www.ebay.com/p/662378147

Still cheaper than LCE for just the valves haha... though who knows the quality of the reman parts

 

That's what we did. Just bought heads at the wrecking yard for $100 each and tossed the castings after

 

wow, 100 bucks, nice

 

The car's rarity worked for us, they had been sitting around forever and the dude marked em down when we started asking about just buying the cams and springs

 

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~spring~compression~for~inner~90504-37002.html

Would that be the correct spring to run?

 

I can check when I get home. I think that is only part of the equation. But been a minute since I looked at what we bagged up.

 

It looks like the 1993 ES300/Camry had a 6/6.2k redline just from googling those cars' odometers, so I'm a little confused where the assertion that the valvetrain is stronger comes from

 

We had the springs put on a valve spring scale along with a 5VZ one, the height of the valve, keeper/washer, and milled head base are the same between 3VZ-FE and 5VZ-FE so just the spring is contributing to higher seat pressure. LCE doesn't give the spec of their upgraded springs, makes me think they could just be these.

Also it is one of these part numbers



Sorry I was 200rpm high on redline, but cutoff is higher than what I quoted