Any woodworkers?

Yes, it’s called alternating top bevel abbreviated ATB. Raker is a flat grind tooth. It’s a good blade for flat bottom cuts, like if you were doing half laps. Thin kerf blades have a decent amount of blade deflection. Hence the full kerf recommendation.

The only job site table saw I know of that can get enough depth for 3 1/2 inches is skilsaw. Unless you mean true nominal. In which case none. You will need 2 parallel sides already and make two partial depth rips to cut one side. If the sides are parallel then your partial depth cuts will be wonky.

 

I have done lap joints in the past with my circular saw. Clean bottom surface was challenging, but I was not selling what I was making.

But now I have a router so I make nooooooooo lap-joint errors.

I could upgrade to a 15 amp saw, which is the circuit limit on the garage line in my rental house. Probably not an issue unless I take on 5 ft long 3 inch-thick stock. Regardless, I found a new-in-wrapping 40T full-kerf blade for my 11-amp Skillsaw that is not installed currently ... might help with cutting board woods.

Probably want a quality portable table saw that reliably cuts square/straight, 90 degrees at 3 inches, instead of over-reaching anyway. Chop saw if I want to cut 4x4s.

 

I have several Forest blades for my table saw. A little pricey, but they produce excellent cuts.

 

Absolutely. Their sharpening service is also top notch.

 

A cautionary tale about running pieces of wood that you think are probably too short through your planer. Don’t do it! Kickback is real folks, and it happens much more violently and rapidly than you would expect it to.

 

Not playing one-ups ...

I had something similar on my thumb from tool usage a few years ago. Did not need the ER but I seriously considered it for 10 minutes until it seemed to stabilize enough ... lucky I guess but probably should have gotten a tetanous booster in retrospect. Even now when I look hard I cannot see the lines. Funny how the body knows how to fix fingers to "reasonably stable" within a week only just barely but other parts like middle of your cheek takes too damned long.

 

OUCH!!!!!!

 

Most painful part was the needle they stuck in my finger at the ER.

 

I know the feeling. Did something similar to my thumb a couple years back. When they numbed me up, I think they shot right into a nerve. I have a high pain tolerance but DAMN that hurt bad!

 

It’s called a digital block. It’s sucks when you see the lidocaine dripping out of the laceration from the nerve.


But I’ve never cut self with a saw blade.

 

Nearly severed my fingertip with a butchers knife in college working in a restaurant. I 100% agree with this post. The needle to numb it was the worst experience. Then the scrubbing of the wound after numbing was stomach churning.

 

But man those nerve block injections last so much longer than the standard lidocaine. I’ll take the initial pain so that hopefully I can put off the pain as long as I can til when the feeling comes back

 

I'll see your needle and raise you silver nitrate. I took the tip of Mt thumb off slicing peppers for dinner. My wife, a PA, just happened to have silver nitrate sticks to cauterize a wounds. Holy *<%%×**!&#^=><#@((!(@&&^×&×((@&@&#<*÷*÷*×(+*>×! Voluntarily burning raw skin and nerves to stop the bleeding. If it ever happens again I'm just going to take my chances.

 

Rockler Father's Day sale is on. Dewalt 2 speed 13" planer with extra knives and table wings is $599. 25% off all wood, in-store only.

 

First day of vacation.

 

Had a friend of mine get a roll top desk restored and he picked it up today. He didn’t know much about the desk aside from it was from the early 1900s and was used by a prominent attorney in the area. Also found a ledger from 1912

Shop found this yardstick being used as a brace underneath it. Check that phone number

 

Ok... I'm frustrated.

I made the template from 1/4 inch hard board (left) to make the Lexan template on the right... i outlined the edge with Sharpie to be able to see it. I used my router table with a flush trim bit with a bearing and all went well.



Since everything went smoothly I decided to proceed to some scrap wood... the pieces keep breaking at the bottom. Not sure if I'm putting too much pressure on them or if it's just a dumb design or if there's a better way.

 

You trying to router it all at one pass? Id try multiple passes. Depending on wood type it will be a weak spot. Id run grains like this or use harder woods such as hickory or ash but still take smaller passes. Or use jig saw: and trace template then cut with jigsaw kinda close to line and finish it with the template and router.

 

Im only using the template on the table to fine tune the lines.. I trace it on the wood and cut it out with the bandsaw and maybe taking a 1/16th with the bit... i may have to re think my design