Anyone Had Luck With Toyota Goodwill?

Dealer says I need a rear diff replaced at 36k on my 2020 TRD Sport. My warranty ran out in Feb. I contacted Toyota and I had a pissy lady shut me down. Is this worth pursuing or just let it go?

Dealer wants 3200 and independent guy wants 2900 so just going to do dealer.

 

I can't speak for Toyota..But if you was a Honda Customer and have Maintanance records at a specific dealer.Get that service Manager
to Call his DSM..they can do a one time goodwill anytime they want..

 

Probably gonna have to try a few times to find a sympathetic ear. And/or try another dealer or 2 in the area.
If not covered 100% then lobby for labor costs only.

Don't forget to sugar coat how reliable the Toyota brand should be, and how you've been happy with Toyota for ( insert inflated years here ).

 

Why the dealer, or independent telling you need rear diff replaced? Rear making noise? Find another dealer, or indy shop, what they say, go from there. Or if you have the time, space, patience, and technical know how, maybe can do it yourself.

 

There was another recent thread someone was being pushed a new diff because dealer found "metal" during drain. Their diff had noise as does practically every 1st, 2nd and 3rd gen (haven't been tracking 4th). I'd get another opinion on needing a new diff. These are HINO units and fairly robust. If something was really going wrong with your diff, I feel like it would've already happened.

 

+1

Also, it's a diff: you can just drive it until the gears eat themselves. Then you need a new one, but not before.

Willing to bet this is just some metal shavings from the initial break-in (which a new diff will have as well).

 

Recently, my dealer couldn't diagnose a drivetrain noise in my truck. So, I took it to my local mechanic and he said I needed a rear diff. He said he could hear the gears grinding inside the bell housing and there were little metal shavings when he checked the fluid.

I then took the truck for a second opinion at a REAL differential specialist. The specialist laughed and said, "your rear diff is fine. The noise inside the bell housing is the spider gears working since the wheels are off the ground, and all rear diffs have a little bit of sparkly shavings which is normal". He was 100% right.

 

Go shake the rear drive shaft. If there is pinion bearing play, you will need a new 3rd member. If there is no play...proceed with life.

 

There are a few on here that have gotten their diffs replaced early under warranty due to the Toyota whine only for it to come back on the new diff in a few thousand miles. Glad you got the second opinion and saved some money and sanity.

 

As mentioned by several in your last post and this post, the rear diffs are known to whine, with no actual fix.
If it's a faint whine, just run it.

 

And if you wuz rich u could just pay any ol' mechanic and nunna this would matta

 

Sounds like stealership shenanigans...... drive it till it doesn't, then fix it. Do reg maintenance in between it working and not working and it should drive longer.

 

Begs the question: if you were rich, at what point would you jump from a Toyota Tacoma to something more expensive, or “higher class?”

 

To answer my own question, I would keep my 3rd gen and build the F out of it and keep it in my arsenal of toys

 

well, if I were "rich", i would settle for something full size, Tundra, maybe a raptor or maybe not. I'm not one to be too concerned on the status symbol attached to a vehicle. I just need something functional for my needs.
I would be more concerned with where i would buy land, build a home away from big cities etc etc.

 

I've seen it go two directions. Some people buy the Ineos Grenadier. Others just start amassing more cars.

And then there are some lunatics that are multimillionaires and insist on driving a 20 year old Ford escape with bad bearings. I know a surprising number of those.

 

We've already been over this in your last thread....noise does not necessarily mean failure. Most of the time it does NOT mean failure. I would keep on driving it until you notice the problem getting increasingly worse. If you insist on replacing the diff anyways, seriously consider phoning a friend or enlisting the help of anyone around you who knows how to turn a wrench. You can buy the diff, gasket, fluid, and pay your phoned-in friend fairly and save probably $1,000 minimum. it is literally a 3 hour job to replace the diff, working slowly.

You are wasting significant amounts of money if you pay the dealer $3,200 for this...especially if more due diligence is not done to verify that you even have a problem to begin with. Just think of how upset you'll be if you pay that money and the new diff still has the same noise. Make sure you have a problem before you go problem solving.